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S-30 Door Interchange


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#1 gmoney280

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 05:47 AM

I did a search on this but didn't come up with anything.
Does anyone know if there is a difference in S-30 Doors from 70 -78 other than the inside door lock? Are the two big hinges and bolt patterns the same? I have a 76 280 with beatup bondo doors and want to replace them with some good clean doors off a 1974 240.

#2 BRAAP

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 09:35 AM

As I understand it, the '70-'76 doors will interchange. Minor differences internally on how the window and latch stuff functions, but nothing that affects the physical use of those doors on other cars within that year spread. Keep in mind, the newer the door, the heavier it will be due to increasing side crash protection measure being employed.

Now the in ’77 Nissan made a significant change to the doors internally and in the striker. This carried through to the ’78, both ’77 and ’78 doors are exactly the same and only interchangeable between these two years. Internally was major redesign as well with a whole new window regulator, that is much smoother less prone to hanging up, (at the expense of added weight), a whole new latch system that is harder to “slim-jim” and will allow you to lock the door prior to shutting it, (requires holding up the door handles while closing the door). The ’77-’78 interior door panels are only interchangeable between the ’77-’78 doors as the window crank handle AND the door lock knob were moved to different location, i.e. holes for such moved significantly.

I've got an very early '70 parts car, couple other 240-'s, a 75, '76 and two '77's. I'll go out and take some pics of the hinges and latches for you.

#3 BRAAP

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 10:21 AM

Got some pics for ya.

The orange one is the early series one 1970 240-Z VIN 2848
The white car is a ’75 which has the same door as the ’76.
The pinkish/Maroon car is a ’77.

Hinges for all doors appear to be the same in the same locations.
Body Strikers. Orange = ’70. White = ’75, Maroon = ‘77
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Door Strikers. Orange = ’70. White = ’75, Maroon = ‘77
Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image


’77 door with panel removed. Note the 4 MAGENTA circles. That is the ’77-’78 window track adjusters. The MAGENTA Arrow on the window crank points to the early crank location, pre’77. The GREEN circle shows one of many new lock revisions and the GREEN arrow points to the earlier door lock location.

Posted Image


Hope this helps,
Paul

#4 Valmont

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 01:17 PM

this needs to be added to a wiki or something somewhere

#5 AK-Z

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 01:37 PM

Not only that, but the actual frame in the chassis is slightly different. Meaning the door won't seal properly if you manage to fit one door a non fitting chassis.

The hinges will fit without any problems, and you can even get the to "fit" along the body lines.

My first Z had a 75 door on a 78 chassis, pretty much is the cause of my floors disappearing before the previous owner gave it to me :P
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#6 gmoney280

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 08:04 PM

Awesome guys, BRAAP thanks for the detailed photos! I got it.

#7 Kevin.pk

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 11:38 PM

and will allow you to lock the door prior to shutting it, (requires holding up the door handles while closing the door)



wow... you learn something new everyday. Thanks for that tid bit of info.:icon14:
Now I can stop locking it with the key. I fell dumb for not knowing about that. haha

-Kevin
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1978 280z- LS1/T56


#8 Barrel_Ball

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 12:49 AM

Geez, and here I was planning on swapping a set of '77 doors onto my '76 with a slight modification to the striker pin on the body. Since my driver's door just won't close unless you slam it hard.

'76 280Z - F54/E88 SU carb compromise - R.I.P. (busted and rusted)

'75 280Z - Restomod with turbo and other wonderfuls!

'92 Nissan Hardbody 2WD - KA24DE-t => R.I.P. (Thanks, ford truck guy...)

'81 200SX Hatchback - Next KA-t swap platform


#9 m4xwellmurd3r

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 08:22 AM

wow... you learn something new everyday. Thanks for that tid bit of info.:icon14:
Now I can stop locking it with the key. I fell dumb for not knowing about that. haha

that part of my door must be broken, because I just lock my door and shut it

After spending time looking at the situation rationally, I decided that owning a fuel burning engine that has a rated life of about 3 miles would be a stupid move. So this afternoon I sent my pal a check for $1350.

signature?
you mean you want my signature? what are ya, identity thieves? jk.
-Max, Owner of a 78 280z

#10 jasper

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 01:40 PM

Geez, and here I was planning on swapping a set of '77 doors onto my '76 with a slight modification to the striker pin on the body. Since my driver's door just won't close unless you slam it hard.

Do a search, this issue of slamming to close has been previosly addressed before, and fixed.

#11 Kevin.pk

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 01:26 AM

that part of my door must be broken, because I just lock my door and shut it


Mine works that way depending on how hard I shut it. If I shut it very gently the door lock knob doesn't pop up all the way and the door remains either locked or it pops just enough that if someone jiggled the handle it would open. If I close the door hard it pops all the way unlocked. It's really just hit or miss because of worn/misaligned parts I'm sure.

Now, I know I can hold the handle up and close it and be sure the door is locked and secured.

-Kevin
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1978 280z- LS1/T56


#12 KenshinX

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 07:03 AM

Mine doesnt close at all anymore the lock mechanism is stuck backwards is there anyway to fix this with replacing?

Passenger side (correct)
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Driver side (problem wont close)
Posted Image
Project: 1974 RLS30-012443 260z 11/'73 - Admiring her beauty now...:)
Daily Driver: 1997 Toyota Corolla CE (beige) 20,000 miles - Too fun to drive. :surprised


Posted Image

#13 AK-Z

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 11:27 AM

Have you tried pulling the handle while the door is opened, holding it, and messing with the latch?
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#14 KenshinX

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 12:07 PM

Yea the latch doesnt move it all I tried moving it by hand but it just springs back into place. I'm going to try removing it and compare each side.
Project: 1974 RLS30-012443 260z 11/'73 - Admiring her beauty now...:)
Daily Driver: 1997 Toyota Corolla CE (beige) 20,000 miles - Too fun to drive. :surprised


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#15 AK-Z

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 05:15 PM

Have you tried removing the door panel? Might be as simple as something coming loose :P
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#16 KenshinX

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 07:12 PM

Yea I removed the door panel already from examination the knob on top and the key cylinder works fine just that doesnt work properly. At the moment I'm trying to remove the metal trim around the window so I can gain access to the lock mechanism but one of screws broke inside the thread hole :/
Project: 1974 RLS30-012443 260z 11/'73 - Admiring her beauty now...:)
Daily Driver: 1997 Toyota Corolla CE (beige) 20,000 miles - Too fun to drive. :surprised


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#17 KenshinX

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 07:22 PM

I was able to fix it! The spring indeed needed to be reset. Used a screw driver with out even taking the window or latch out pushed the pin back and it popped back into place. Thanks.
Project: 1974 RLS30-012443 260z 11/'73 - Admiring her beauty now...:)
Daily Driver: 1997 Toyota Corolla CE (beige) 20,000 miles - Too fun to drive. :surprised


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#18 m4xwellmurd3r

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 11:42 PM

Mine works that way depending on how hard I shut it. If I shut it very gently the door lock knob doesn't pop up all the way and the door remains either locked or it pops just enough that if someone jiggled the handle it would open. If I close the door hard it pops all the way unlocked. It's really just hit or miss because of worn/misaligned parts I'm sure.

Now, I know I can hold the handle up and close it and be sure the door is locked and secured.

for me then, it could be that because my door seal is uhh...worn/gone, I hardly have to push the door to get them to shut. it's nice, and the car doesn't leak (get ssome wind noise when I have the windows up)

so I guess I'm not too worried about it lol

After spending time looking at the situation rationally, I decided that owning a fuel burning engine that has a rated life of about 3 miles would be a stupid move. So this afternoon I sent my pal a check for $1350.

signature?
you mean you want my signature? what are ya, identity thieves? jk.
-Max, Owner of a 78 280z

#19 oldhemi

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 12:27 PM

I want to add some information. The 70-73 interior panels and armrests do NOT interchange with a early 260Z door. The 240Z had a 2 piece pull and armrest deal. The 260Z and up went to a 1 piece unit. There are many differences on the steel stamping on the steel door frame. I am pretty sure but not positive that the 74.5 260 and 75- 8/76 doors and interior stuff are the same as the early 260Z door. If one is looking for complete compatibility then this means that 240Z owners would want to stay with 240Z doors and 260Z owners should look for early 260Z ( and possibly the 74.5 - 8/76) doors. (Still hunting for that elusive early perfect 260Z door)

If you want to hammer/ weld / raise some metal on the door frame in order to install interior panels and arm rest, you could probably make the switch. If you dont care about interior panels or are going to do some modifications - please ignore this. I will post some pictures after the Feb 20 switch in BB providers.

#20 260Mopar

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 09:41 AM

This is an interesting topic for those of us that were fortunate enough to wind up with the 74s.
I've located an early 74 with a good set of doors complete with regulators and glass.
I'll be able to inform as to the fit on my late 74 soon.
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