JustinOlson Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Search "Used Race Slicks" on ebay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I am running the SubtleZ rear quarter panels, and the 23x9.5x15 tires fit well. The YZ rear quarter panels and the correct offset wheel will accommodate the larger 13.5 in wide rear FA slick (In hindsight, I sometimes wish that I had YZ rear Quarters). Not so sure about this one. I think it would be close. I remember Clifton had to shorten his lower control arms to fit the Yokohama rears under IMSA flares, and I though that the IMSA flares were an inch wider than the YZ flares. It could also be that Clifton is running a 15x14 wheel because the Yokohamas are 350mm wide. I guess the point is that it might be close. There is also a 12" Hoosier rear, I picked one up and have mounted it to test for fitment with the IMSA flares from http://www.zccjdm.com but haven't had any time to check it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 How much ground clearance do you have left? What is your rocker height? Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 The front leading edge of my rocker panel is 4.25" off the ground, and the rear is 5". The center of my front crossmember is 2.75" off the ground, oil pan is 3", and the lowest point of my exhaust is 2.5". The lowest point however (the leading edge of my frame rail/ subframe connector) is 1.75" from the ground. Loading this thing on and off the trailer this past weekend was fun. I may have to lift it up a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 I hope I'm not getting too far off topic. Say I use the 23x12.5-15's in the rear. What tire should I run up front? How much tire can I really use up front? These YZ front fenders can fit just as much tire as the rears. Essentially I could run the big tire front and rear. Is this too much??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 You could run 12's in front. The question is, can you turn them? I guess if you had power steering, I can't see a reason not to do it. Ian and Steve in Fresno were running the Goodyear rears which are 11.5's front and back, but they were running them on a 10" rim. You really need a 12" rim to get the full effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 The GY Radial rears 23.5x11-15 are recommend for a 14" rim width. Eeek: http://www.racegoodyear.com/tires/pdf/g19_sports.pdf I was thinking about running the GY radial 23.5x10.5-16 up front???? The real problem for me straying about from these FA tires is getting reasonably priced tires. I can't drop retail prices on these slicks. More on topic: Are you worried about scrapping the frame rail under hard turns? Looks like it was getting close before your switched to the shorter tires. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Oops. Forgot that the GY was intended for a 14" rim. That must be really floppy feeling. Not sure what the Hoosiers are supposed to be mounted on, but I can say that they look good on a 12 in terms of sidewall deflection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Oops. Forgot that the GY was intended for a 14" rim. That must be really floppy feeling. Not sure what the Hoosiers are supposed to be mounted on, but I can say that they look good on a 12 in terms of sidewall deflection. The GYs will work fine on a 12 inch rim, just a little slower. Hoosier lists recommend rims on their site but the 12 works for me. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 The GYs will work fine on a 12 inch rim, just a little slower. Hoosier lists recommend rims on their site but the 12 works for me. So you're running the 13" Hoosier on a 12" rim? Interestingly, the 23.5 x 12 x 15 isn't listed on their site. Looks like the 13" calls for a 14" rim: https://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm I think with 13's and 14's you start running into a situation where normal tire shop equipment might not be able to cope with the rim width. Has that been a problem for anyone running the wide rears? They had to check when I had the 12's installed, but it turned out they could do it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 I'm totally sold on this. 15x10s SW series 82s with FA slicks seem like a very cheap way to get grip. Dan, what are the specs on your brakes? Do you have any specs on the inner dimensions of the wheels you have? I'd like to double check the brakes I just purchased will definitely fit. Sorry to thread hi-jack, might take it to PM. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 So you're running the 13" Hoosier on a 12" rim? My rear tires are 23.0 x 12.0-13 C3000, which are recommend on 12 to 15 inch rims. These are bias ply tires. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 My rear tires are 23.0 x 12.0-13 C3000, which are recommend on 12 to 15 inch rims. I thought you were referring to Kipperman's car. What is he running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 I thought you were referring to Kipperman's car. What is he running? The V8 car ran the 15 inch radials (GY, hoosier, and yoko) 10 inch front and 14 inch rear wheels on all. The 4-cylinder car is running my wheels and tires, 10 inch front and 12 inch rear on the bias ply hoosier. We may try radials later in the season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Interesting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 13 inch wheel and tires are anywhere from 20 to 40 pounds lighter than the 15 inch equivalent. The yokos are the heaviest, then GY, then Hoosier. That was the main motivation for going small on the new car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 13 inch wheel and tires are anywhere from 20 to 40 pounds lighter than the 15 inch equivalent. The yokos are the heaviest, then GY, then Hoosier. That was the main motivation for going small on the new car. I get that, I was more interested in that you were running 14's on the back of Kipperman's car. FWIW, my new 12's and Hoosiers are lighter than my previous 8's with Yokohama slicks on them. Those Yokohamas are HEAVY, and the 8's that I bought (Paulsen Racing) were really heavy as well. Each wheel/tire was about 50 lbs. I think the new Diamond Racing Wheels and Hoosier combo is something like 5-8 lbs lighter in the rear. I haven't had a chance to weigh them yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 JustOlson asked, "Are you worried about scrapping the frame rail under hard turns? Looks like it was getting close before your switched to the shorter tires." I was a little concerned, but I had no problem while on course. My car doesn't roll nearly as much as it used to. Since then I have added a slightly stiffer front sway bar and droop limited the front suspension. I did have trouble coming on and off the track because there was a slight dip and my frame rails would scrape. Before the next event I plan to raise the front up a little bit by replacing the 450 lb/in springs with 500 lb/in springs. I may then move the 450 lb/in springs to the rear in place of my 425 lb/in springs that are currently installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Before the next event I plan to raise the front up a little bit by replacing the 450 lb/in springs with 500 lb/in springs. I may then move the 450 lb/in springs to the rear in place of my 425 lb/in springs that are currently installed. How are your droop limiters setup? Do you have a turnbuckle to adjust them? I purchased some 3mm cable and clevises, but haven't found tunbuckles to put it all together yet. I was talking to Cary and he has pretty grossly oversized cables and turnbuckles. Nothing wrong with that other than it's more weight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 My cables are set-up so that they are not adjustable. I used 1/8" multi-stranded cable, thimbles, and crimp connectors. The top is secured to the strut tower next to the spring using a clevis yoke, and the bottom is attached to the sway bar end link. I made the length of my droop limiter such that the spring is slightly loaded at full droop. My wife is out of town and has the camera, so I can't go out and take a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.