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sweetride2go

twin turbo 4x4 hardbody (vg30dett into D21)

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Latest update will come in a few installments. First off by the finalization of the oil pan.

 

Here is the pan in it's infinite glory, the final version, before I stuck it on the engine. In this you can see where both the drain back tubes for the turbo's have been located, the stretch of the front to clear the oil pump, and in the top right corner is the return from the oil cooler which I welded on a -6 AN bung. This is the V6 truck pan, and I had to stretch it 1/4" to clear the pump. I used a 1/4 solid rod to fill the gap and then welded both sides of the rod onto the corresponding parts of the pan. I actually bolted the pan to the Z32 pan to keep it straight and minimize warping, and to make sure my bolt holes for in front of the oil pump lined up. The lower corner of the pan had to be "nipped" to clear the filter and allow me to take it off. The inside area in the front had to be ground down where my 1/4" rod stuck through to clear the oil pick up tube...

truck427.jpg

 

For the time being, and that time being the trail fitment stage in the truck, I am using and older model GM engine mount. They only have one hole in the center, and are only about an 1" thick. They still have the three bolt holes that would normally bolt to a SBC 350, but I am planning on trying these upside down, using the center hole to bolt to the VG motormounts, and make a plate to adapt them to the frame somehow.

 

In these two photos you can see the mount, and how I had to modify it to clear the intake pipe for the turbo on the driver side.

truck428.jpg

truck430.jpg

 

Next up, KA removal and trial fitting...

Edited by sweetride2go

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FINALLY!!! Down to the nitty gritty! Some of these are self explanatory...

 

Here it is in it's KA attire. :P

truck431.jpg

 

Engine out, time to get the old trans out...

truck433.jpg

 

Here is the KA and the VG sitting side by side. I measured the two and from front-to-back the KA is actually about 1" longer. Later I found out that this space wasn't goin to do me any favors, as the transmission/transfer-case for the VG is also 1" longer from the front of the bell-housing to the transmission mount.

truck434.jpg

 

And WALA! We have VG in D21! Not quite, but nice to see where my attention needs to be directed to next. It fits quite nice.

truck437.jpg

 

Here is a bunch of pics, showing tight locations, and areas I thought I would have problems, or areas others had clearance issues. Also, from my measurements the engine needs to be shifted to the passenger side about 1". So clearances in some areas will actually be better, and others slightly tighter. :P

 

First off is the valve cover area in relation to the vacuum booster. It is tight, but it clears.

truck442.jpg

 

Steering shaft and the waste-gate actuator want to mingle, but they clear.

truck441.jpg

 

These next two, you can see the GM mount and how it sits on the frame. There will need to be an adapter fabricated. The factory Nissan adapter plate fits nicely, which you will see on the passenger side. You can also see the AN fitting for the oil cooler return. Also notice that I am not running AC, cause these pictures would be taken mostly up by the compressor otherwise.

truck438.jpg

truck439.jpg

Footnote: I have a lot of oil pan clearance near the front diff, but this could be partly due to that this truck had the KA, which means that it only has a R180 front diff. The V6 trucks all came with the larger R200 front diffs. I actually aquired the larger unit, but since I only plan to use 4WD in snowy conditions, and not for all-wheel-drive burnouts, I think the R180 will hold up fine.

 

Alternator clearance. I thought for sure I was going to have a problem here since the alternator hangs so low on this. But I have room to spare, even if I shift it over a bit. It's hard to see but I have the Nissan VG adapter plate under the motor mount on this side, and the angles line up perfectly. All I need to do is some minor fabrication to enlarge the mounting point so I can bolt the GM mount to it.

truck445.jpg

 

Oil filter/Oil pressure sender clearance. Here was another concern area for me. I already modified the oil pressure sender with a 90 and you can see where the output for the oil cooler will be coming from. This is with the engine raised an inch or so off the mounts...

truck446.jpg

 

And finally, this is a shot down the back. I have lots of room here, but unfortunately I found that I still need to drop the torsion arm cross-member in order to get enough room to work the transmission around so I can line it up for the engine.

truck447.jpg

 

 

This is the latest update, and soon we will finish motor mount adapters, get the trans bolted up along with the rest of the drive-train, tackle intake plumbing, exhaust, wiring, etc., etc.... I would like to note that I would have been time and money ahead if I had tried a LS1 swap instead. :P

 

Cheers :)

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This project is taking a lot more modification that I had anticipated. But finally some good progress to report. I believe the engine has made its final trip into the truck. Hopefully, cause I lost count how many times it has been in and out.

 

It is listing slightly to the passenger side. If I had more time in the shop I am at I would fix it, but I have to be out in a week, so onto other heavy fabrication that needs to be done in the meantime...

truckfinal002.jpg

 

I made a handy lil bracket for moving the trans around on a floor jack. It's pretty well balanced and helped out a ton with that heavy trans/xcase...

truckfinal004.jpg

 

The motor mounts were in question for some time. I ended up purchasing ford mounts, Chevy mounts, Nissan mounts, and ended up with these older Chevy mounts, which we turned 90*. There was also extensive frame clearanceing on the passenger side. This is because I dropped and shifted the engine to the passenger side from previous pictures to gain better clearances for exhaust, better fit for the trans, and hopefully a better drive with lower center of gravity. Right now the engine sits about one inch off of the steering, and I have just enough room to slide my fingers between the pan and axle tube. With this new position, we had to notch the frame rail considerably, clearancing for the alternator, motor mount, and turbo.

truckfinal013.jpg

 

The compressor fits quite close to the frame. I had to relocate a breather tube that comes up from the front diff to the outside of the frame.

truckfinal003.jpg

 

On the other side you can see the steering shaft is vary close to the compressor outlet. Through previous trial fittings we have been checking clearances, hence the scratch marks on the steering shaft. This is also why the engine has been massaged into the passenger side frame rail.

truckfinal001.jpg

 

Exhaust clearance on the drivers side ended up better than I thought. I fitted up the Megan downpipes and they almost fit! The flange on the bottom hits against the drive shaft flange for the front diff...

truckfinal015.jpg

 

Everything on the passenger side seems cramped. This is an early photo, but since then we have removed the slave bracket since it interfered with the starter. Fuel lines had to be moved as far to the right as possible, the speedo cable had to be loosened and moved to fallow. The upper left part of the cross-member will be removed for starter clearance. However, the starter does clear, it's just that I am concerned that the engine could torque over and the starter then could rub. So I am notching this as a precaution. There is a tab on the trans that is coming off, the one with the bolt in it towards the top of the photo. This will aid in exhaust clearances. I am afraid that I may have to massage the floor a bit for the exhaust as well, but I'm not sure yet...

truckfinal014.jpg

 

A couple other unknowns right now is:

-Drive shaft length, it may need to be lengthened. I don't know if the six cylinder trucks have a longer shaft or not. Really wish I had kept that from the parts truck...

truckfinal008.jpg

-Control sticks for the trans and transfer-case may have to be modified to fit in the original hole that Nissan provided.

 

Both of these examples make it seem that the whole thing needs to be pulled back a bit... But then I would be right into my steering shaft and the back of the engine would be into the firewall. If I had more time I would consider hacking the steering and putting another u-joint into it for driver-side clearance, allowing me to put the engine back a tad. Hm, more time, lol....

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Well, no photo's to share. Actually I guess I could but they wouldn't show anymore than what you have seen already. Haha, I just scanned up top and realized I do have one to share! Got the intercoolers mounted and grill cleared for them. I moved my truck back to my home shop, so now that I am not under a deadline progress has slowed down. There seem to be roadblocks down every object I try and work with.

 

Good news! I picked up a great quality oil filter relocation kit from Mocal, and I won't be needing it cause I found a filter that will fit! I tried looking through Nismo and AMS and couldn't find any shorter filter than I could get from NAPA. But there are some great guys at my local NAPA and I ran through their books and found a filter almost 1" shorter than the OEM unit. It even has all the same specs as the original, same flow rate, same filtering ability, gasket the same. It fits a Nissan forklift, lol...

 

The heater core hoses have been acquired along with the lower radiator hose! I am waiting to install them till I get my wiring ran. The wiring harness doesn't fit quite right. I have some extra harness that will need a loop put into it here and some that is a lil short and I think will end up running across the driver-side of the engine. I ended up running the harness through the factory gromet in the firewall. However, now the ECU doesn't even reach the floor on the inside. I think I may just mount it high on the floor/firewall on the inside, out of kicking feet range.

 

I also got the booster plumbed. Had to modify the power-steering resivor a tad to pull it away from the passenger charge pipe. Found the hose that I will need for that as well. The PS return line doesn't need any modification. The pressure line for the PS is my latest hiccup. I'm ditching the old line all together, and trying to find someone who can fabricate a new one to go straight from the box.

 

I should be finishing up the fuel system today. The trans/transfer case should be wired up today, or at least up to the alternator. I am saving up some money for my drive-shafts to be modified, then saving up for exhaust/intercooler piping.

 

This is my last update pic from the old shop, with the intercoolers installed...

truk006.jpg

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It's been a while so I thought I would share where I am at. WIRING!!! That and I fell short on money so the intake piping and the exhaust are on standby for the moment. I'm not going to go into detail with the wiring, if you have questions, PM me. But I would wait till I have it running to make sure that it runs, lol.

 

Here we are working under the hood. I purchased a small fuse block that runs partially off a key signal and partially constantly hot. This is what I am using to replace the factory Z32 fuse/relay block that sits under the hood, since I didn't have one...

wiringoutside.jpg

 

This is a peek into wiring inside, where we are tying into the original ECU harness, dash/instrument cluster, and of course I had to wire in the new gauges, which were a pain...

wireinginside.jpg

 

Tada! So yea, I'm hoping to get the oil system primed and have the truck fired in a couple weeks. :P

 

Ryan~

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Ya, it has been two months since my last update. Things have slowed down on my project due to life. One of them being that I lost my job, so the amount of money I can spend on this lil gem has been greatly reduced.

 

But this hasn't stopped me! The truck wiring is pretty much wrapped up. Tested the ECU the other day. Fuel system works, and without leaks! I had gotten a bad sending unit for my oil pressure gauge from Speedhut, but they replaced it quickly and this one works. I have my tax return coming, so that should allow me to drop the truck off at the exhaust shop.

 

I'd post a picture, but it doesn't look much different than the previous pics. Other than the dash is back in... :P

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I made some great progress! Even though I don't have any money I have still been tinkering away. I fired it up yesterday and it runs! Mostly... lol. When I originally tried to start it, it would only pop on one cylinder. After some consulting with the local expert I found that after sitting for so long, even after the rebuild, that all but one of the injectors had seized up. I free'd all but one of them and it runs good, even though on five cylinders. I couldn't run it for long since I don't have any coolant in the engine, no oil in the trans, that, and there is no MAF or O2 hooked up and no charge piping. But it was good news none the less.

 

Other projects of late have been this, which is my little fuse block from painless that I am using to send power to the ECU/Engine harness since I don't have the original unit from the car. There was some considerable thinking involved in analyzing the schematic and making sure wires were in the right place.

2012-02-09fuse.jpg

 

On to other projects, like test mounting the fan. This is a Taurus fan, I love them, they have two speeds, are compact, move lots of air, and are cheap and readily available. However, they do pull a ton of amps on start-up which will require a high amp relay. The ECU has a fan relay wire that comes out to the fuse block in the previous pic. Talking to my local expert he says that one comes on to hot and is more like an emergency fan. So I will be wiring that to the Hi speed side. If you look at the upper radiator hose, I had made an adapter that goes from the D21 radiator fitting to the engine(1-3/8"x1-5/8") and it has a 1/8"npt hole in it for a sending unit. This is where I will mount my Low speed fan switch.

2012-02-09fan.jpg

 

After taking measurements, I sketched this out to take to the shop. This will be my mounts for the Taurus fan. It will mount to the sides of the radiator. The section with the holes on it(left side) covers part of the radiator, so the holes are there for airflow, and also because that is where I will mount my oil cooler.

2012-02-09fandrawn.jpg

 

Wish I had more money... lol

 

Ryan~

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Hoses are done! Replace #6 injector and now runs smoooooooth. I finally got the money together for exhaust/intake, so I will be scheduling that in as soon as I can. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the fan mounts done. Need to do some touch painting before I reinstall the intercooler and radiator for the last time. Then I can fill it with coolant and take a long look at how it is running and fumigate myself in the process as it runs piggishly rich without the sensors hooked up. Still need to drop the driveshaft and have it lengthened. Clean up the interior and do final assembly. But it's coming along.

 

Yay, now time to install the fan!

2012-02-11hoses.jpg

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Picked it up from the exhaust shop, more or less, but I'll get into the drama later. The guys at Nameless Performance here in the Pacific North West did a great job on my exhaust and intake piping! It is all stainless, so it will last longer than the truck. They use mandrel bends so it looks super clean and professional.

 

I ran over there today to do some final things and drive it home. They had to use the battery location for one of the intake filters, so I had to figure out what I was goin to do for my battery. Luckily, they had a couple of these compact, sealed batteries, I grabbed one and found it a home between the air cleaner and charge pipe. I still need to make a shelf for it to sit on and something to tied it down with. I hooked up the power steering and put oil in, it runs like it did before. Need to save up for a new steering box. :( But other than that, it works great, belt doesn't throw or squeal, and no leaks. Speaking of which, no leaks at all!

 

All of the charge piping done, HKS BOV's installed, 3" cone filters, etc etc...

2012-03-04133804.jpg

 

After that we rolled it out of the shop and I took it on a test run. Runs soo good, and boost is strong!

2012-03-04151519.jpg

 

I don't have pictures (yet) of the exhaust, which is dual stainless 2.5" pipe to just past the drivetrain where it collects into a Magnaflow muffler and runs out in a single 3" pipe and exits behind the drivers tire. They were able to salvage my Megan downpipes, but the passenger side needed considerable modification to be fitted properly. My clutch is super touchy, but I think I may have some air in the line, so I will try to bleed the system and see if I have any improvement.

 

Oh, so to the drama... When I left I only made it about a mile or two down the road where I notice my engine temp rising, and it reached 200 so I pulled over. After considerable deliberation we have the "overheating" issue narrowed down to either air in the system, a stuck thermostat, or a bad temp gauge sending unit. We are leaning to the latter, as engine and water temps measured by hand seemed far to cool for 200*.

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Got some exhaust pictures!

 

I think it's all self explanatory. This is the drivers side, not much done to the down pipe here other than changing the final bend on the Megan downpipes...

Dside.jpg

 

This is the passenger side, they had to pretty much rebuild the whole thing and it took a while. They also tried to keep it balanced.

Pside.jpg

 

These are both where it joins under the transfercase.

txcase.jpg

2into1.jpg

 

cheers!

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Time for an update: Crankcase breathing is done via one catch can.  It pulls fresh air from the passenger side intake into the engine.  From the other side it pulls crankcase gasses from the valve cover into a catch can, and from the catch can to a PCV valve on the drivers side of the plenum.  I had this running with out the catch can and the engine accumulates oil in the intake.  It's surprising how much oil and water the catch can accumulates, probably a pint in between oil changes.

 

I have 12,000 miles on it now and no real problems to report.  I did have to change the IAC valve, this fixed dieing issues when accelerating and idling issues.  Also had a dead short I couldn't find for a while and it ended up being the 'air meter', which is a cold start feature on the back of the intake that allows additional air to pass during cold start.  Apparently it was wired to a constant hot, fixed that and now it starts a lot easier and no more charging batteries. yay.   

 

The oil smoking went away, apparently just a break in issue.  Still running only 6lbs of boost, just haven't gotten to installing the boost controller.  The truck runs really strong!  Im actually hardly in the boost unless im passing someone or climbing a steep hill.  Average mileage is appx. 20mpg.

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hey there mate a fan from New Zealand here you inspired my swap or tho i didn't go TT Just VG30DE standard in my 2wd as I'm only 21 and have my whole life ahead of me lol  ;)

 

Just need some advice on air intake and how to run piping to my airflow meter

 

VG30DE D21

 

post-42000-0-07249800-1385357295_thumb.jpg

Edited by JonnyJ783

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