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johnc

Subaru WRX STi R180 Side Axles

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I have not sourced the proper M10 x 1.25p studs new (damn hard to find actually) so I'm going to install some used ones from the dozens or side axles I have on a shelf.

 

I think I've sourced 100 of the correct Nissan studs. At least my credit card has been charged, I have yet to see them all arrive. In the pic above I installed 8 news ones for the testing.

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Look at the top post in this thread. I'm going to start making a list of folks interested in purchasing these side axles. No money up front. I'll make a production run and then offer the parts tot he people on the list in the order that the names are posted. If you don't see your name on the list, send me a PM or an e-mail.

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These are beautiful pieces. So pretty, it seems a shame to hide them under my car where nobody can see them! I may start parking over a mirror. The stubs slide in by hand, then a light tap with a hammer sets them past the internal c-clip. Fit is perfect. They came un-painted; I painted the part of the flange that would be exposed after installation. I swapped the input flange from my original R180 onto the STI diff. Needed a flywheel/gear puller to remove each input flange. The input spline count is the same for both diffs. So, if you change the input flange, the stock driveshaft works. Everything bolted right up, easy as pie. All my old hardware fit and there were NO installation issues. The studs on the diff cover are longer on the STi diff, so it is easier to swap them or remove them and reinstall them once the front diff was seated. I have only driven car around the block and did a few donuts in a parking lot; hope to go to 1/8 mile on Thursday if the weather is good. The first thing I have noticed is that new parts (2004) are better than old parts (1972). My old diff sounded like a box of rocks. The new diff is quiet as a mouse. The car used to power oversteer at a whim, and accellerating out a turn was met with severe wheel spin. Now, the car simply hooks up. More to follow after first trip to the track. Motor is stock, but will be "dropping" stock 2+2 clutch from 5000 rpm. I'm really pleased with the quality of the part and how simple the install was.

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These are beautiful pieces. So pretty, it seems a shame to hide them under my car where nobody can see them! I may start parking over a mirror. The stubs slide in by hand, then a light tap with a hammer sets them past the internal c-clip. Fit is perfect. They came un-painted; I painted the part of the flange that would be exposed after installation. I swapped the input flange from my original R180 onto the STI diff. Needed a flywheel/gear puller to remove each input flange. The input spline count is the same for both diffs. So, if you change the input flange, the stock driveshaft works. Everything bolted right up, easy as pie. All my old hardware fit and there were NO installation issues. The studs on the diff cover are longer on the STi diff, so it is easier to swap them or remove them and reinstall them once the front diff was seated. I have only driven car around the block and did a few donuts in a parking lot; hope to go to 1/8 mile on Thursday if the weather is good. The first thing I have noticed is that new parts (2004) are better than old parts (1972). My old diff sounded like a box of rocks. The new diff is quiet as a mouse. The car used to power oversteer at a whim, and accellerating out a turn was met with severe wheel spin. Now, the car simply hooks up. More to follow after first trip to the track. Motor is stock, but will be "dropping" stock 2+2 clutch from 5000 rpm. I'm really pleased with the quality of the part and how simple the install was.

 

Wow!! Thats fantastic news!! I just finished my Z32 transmission swap last year or so and had a custom driveshaft made, I was worried I would have to have it modified "again". Good to know I can just swap the input shaft flange!!!

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Does changing the input flange effect the preload?

 

I've never been inside a diffy. What's involved in changing the input flange on the R180?

 

While I haven't swapped one before, I don't believe you have to crack open the diff to remove the flange. If I'm correct you simply remove the bolt on the front of the diff snout, and use a puller to remove the snout. The new flange should just press right in.

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While I haven't swapped one before, I don't believe you have to crack open the diff to remove the flange. If I'm correct you simply remove the bolt on the front of the diff snout, and use a puller to remove the snout. The new flange should just press right in.

That's exactly how I did it. Side flanges are changed the same way. It's a lot easier with an air gun.

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That's exactly how I did it. Side flanges are changed the same way. It's a lot easier with an air gun.

 

That will make the install a lot easier and less expensive. We have an air gun, STI LSD and stock diffy. I guess all we need is the new output shafts that John is working on.

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Hi, I am super keen to get a set of the axles. I have an event in Easter 2010 and really need to get the diff converted by then.

 

Otherwise I'll be travelling 700miles at 60 miles per hour doing 4000 rpm.

Then at the event I'll be limited to 120 miles per hour at 8000 rpm.

 

If I can get the conversion done I am hoping to hit 140 miles per hour.

 

Any way I can convince you to sell me a set early?

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Initial test results: First autocross with new WRX STi CLSD with betamotorsport (John Coffey's) axle adapter stub in my 240z. Took home first in class trophy. Closest competition (Mustang GT 4.6 was 4 seconds behind me). Everybody is shaking my hand and asking what I did to my car! I think they figure I went to a drivng school. Last month I wasn't even respectable. I have never had any other single more significant performance enhancement than LSD. I just can't describe the new-found confidence that I had when launching, accellerating out of turns. I've been grinning for 2 days.

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Nope, John's not paying me. But I am still grinning! I'm just really stoked to have LSD after 20 years of Z ownership - it really seem that I am driving a totally different car. My old rearend was an open 4.11 out of the front of a 4X4 truck, unknown mileage. It made a lot of noise but really helped with accelleration over the 3.54 - when I had traction. At drags, drag radials solved the problem, but in the corners at autocross I always unloaded my inside wheel and gave up time. Now it is like, push down and hang on! The improved times speak for themselves.

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