Prothane Polyurethane Bushing Install on 1980 280ZX (lots of photos!)

[dhp123166]

I put MSA urethane bushings on my '76 280z TC rods when I first got the vehicle 13 years ago.

 

I have replaced them once 2 years ago and absolutely cranked them down.

 

I have experienced no problems whatsoever other than one cup washer coming loose from the frame in which the bushing sits.

 

I had never heard of any failure until perusing this site and even so if it breaks I'll fix it.

 

Ignorance is bliss?

 

One thing that might be beneficial is to ascertain what the durometer (hardness) of the different makes of bushings are as a softer urethane might be more forgiving than a harder one.

 

I hope my T.C. rods don't break now...

 

P.S. : I run wider than stock tires as well.

Edited June 14, 2009 by dhp123166
addendum

[judas_light]

I had question with the poly bushings, what's the torque specifications for the new bushings? Poly bushings don't give, so wouldn't there be a different torque spec for them? I'm currently working on my 81 280zx bushings specifically tension rod and stabilizer bushings and I was trying to get it to at least 33lbs of torque but they just spin. >.< Is there some trick to it?

[PhilbertZ]

I had question with the poly bushings, what's the torque specifications for the new bushings? Poly bushings don't give, so wouldn't there be a different torque spec for them? I'm currently working on my 81 280zx bushings specifically tension rod and stabilizer bushings and I was trying to get it to at least 33lbs of torque but they just spin. >.< Is there some trick to it?

 

 

The torque specs are in the FSM.

 

For the end links, you need 2 wrenches - one to hold the bottom nut/bolt end, and one to tighten (torque wrench)

 

I think torque specs are the same...while oem rubber will compress more to get to the proper tightening spec, the poly just won't compress as much - it's still the same amount of compression/torque. Make sure you are torquing when the suspension is under load - and not up on jack stands and hanging there.

[supernova_6969]

ok.

 

I'm resuscitating this tread, as it's one of the most complete I could find about this issue

 

I've got a 83 280zx daily driver ish that feels soft. the shocks are probably very old, the bushing probably factory.  

 

I was psyched about the prothane poly bushing kit, but a lot of people say it makes the car harsh to drive around (apart  for the tc arm issue). 

 

Are there other options, other kits that offer softer bushing?  I'm thinking that buying individual OEM bushing at the dealer or even at the local auto part store is going to amount to much more than the 125$ for the prothane kit..  

 

Otherwise, what are people's impression on comfort after instaling the poly kit?  it should be much different that the old stock ones, but what is the difference?  vibration?  noise?  harshness when going over bumps and holes?  and how much?

 

thanks!

 

seb

[Miles]

The only thing  you will notice is that the car will handle better.  Do the whole car at once. And yes, use rubber on  the TC rods.

[RebekahsZ]

If it is anything like the S30, it's a lotta damn work without much pay-off. I may be preaching to the choir, but if you have a stock car and want to make dramatic changes in the firmness and handling of the car, I would do things in the following order: wheels and tires, steering coupler and rack bushings, 5-point harness, springs and shocks, bleed brakes and get more aggressive pads (only drawback is dirty wheels). Then and only then would I do suspension bushings. Actually, I would do a motor swap, and THEN do bushings. Crap, do an LSD before the bushings, and camber plates too. The contribution from bushings is minimal at best. Heck, I'd even put a fat tailpipe on it first.

Edited May 20, 2015 by RebekahsZ

[NewZed]

Look through what the kit has and determine what each bushing does.  Then decide if you need the whole kit or just a few.  Think about what affects the handling issues you're trying to change and focus on affecting those parts.  You mentioned old shocks, but decided to buy a bushing kit.  Several of the bushings sacrifice ride softness for handling precision.  One man's increased responsiveness and road-feel is another man's harshness.  If you're planning other changes like low profile tires, you might do those first, since they'll make the ride harsher too.  Keep your variables separate so you know what's doing what.

 

 

For the crowd - Is the polyurethane T/C rod bushing an issue with the ZX?  I know it is with the Z's, maybe not with the ZX.  Nissan moved the rod from mainly compression to tension, from Z to ZX.  May have changed some other design aspects.

[RebekahsZ]

Work on components that control the movement at a scale of inches instead of millimeters or even microns.

[supernova_6969]

Thanks for the replies guys. Essentially, the car currently feels like jello: soft/slow steering, a lot of roll in the corners, feels loose when i hit bumps...

My problem is i have no money for this (wife who hates the car, kids, mortage, etc) so i can only affort small cheap things.. And i dont really plan on changing anything else ( no low profile tires no custom suspension bits, nothing other than upgrading stock parts as they break, like shocks eventually, bushings, etc....)

Thus i though bushings might be a good start since they are cheap and supposedly make a significant difference. But i wouldnt want to feel like im riding a tank.

In the end though i got all the bushings that the kit contains quoted at the local napa, and it comes to double the cost of the poly kit. I guess that takes care of that and i could eventually change it back later if its too much....