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Guest Grenade300

1973 LS1/T56 240Z for sale

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Guest Grenade300

For sale: LS1 1973 Datsun 240Z. ASKING $10,000.

 

-LS1 and T56 (6-speed) from a 2002 Camaro SS (Stock Internals) (Mounted with JCI conversion parts) about 60k on the engine and tranny

-Complete stainless steel mandrel bent, TIG welded, duel exhaust system with headers, X-pipe and Borla mufflers.

-Performance ECU tune (works with 91 Octane or higher)

-Stand alone engine harness

 

-Aluminum JTR radiator

-160 degree thermostat

-Black Magic Cooling Fan (Rated at 3,000 cfm)

 

-Summit Racing fuel cell

-Aeromotive fuel pump

-Aeromotive adjustable fuel regulator

-8AN Braided supply lines from fuel cell to engine

-F.A.S.T. fuel rails

-The entire fuel system is built to handle up to 700hp

 

-300ZX Twin Turbo LSD differential (3.69 ratio) (Mounted with Modern Motorsports conversion parts)

-Diff was installed with new seals

-Mosler 39 spline half-shafts

-Billet stub axles (cryogenically hardened)

-ARP studs

-Eibach progressive rate springs

-Urethane suspension bushings

-New rear wheel bearings

-I have yet to see one of these rear ends break

 

-Custom done body work

-IMSA style fender flares (molded on)

-IMSA style 3-piece spoiler (molded on) (this spoiler is no longer made and hard to come by).

-Shaved side markers

-Shaved the rear bumper

-Set the exhaust tips in the rear valance (Gibson polished stainless steel tips)

-Corvette style vents (hand built from steel and welded in)

-H-4 Headlights

-Custom Rota Wheels built specifically for the 240Z (8 spoke Watanabe style) (17x9.5 for the rear and 17x9 for the front) never installed on the car other than a test fit and still in the boxes: These will fill out the fender flares quiet nicely!

 

-Hand built fiberglass dash and console

-Autometer Phantom electronic gauges (Speedo, Tach, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Fuel Level, Voltmeter, Fuel Pressure)

-Aftermarket retractable seatbelts from Motorsport Auto

-Completely PROPERLY re-wired chassis. I am an electronic tech for the military and I personally rewired the entire car using a universal chassis harness as my base. I soldered and heat shrunk EVERY connection and mapped out the entire wire diagram for future reference. I have over 1,000 miles on the car since I rewired it and have had no problems since.

 

-Clear title

-Receipts for every part purchased

 

This car is FAST and built very well. I did not skimp on anything. The body is rust free (California car). The only rust is in the driver’s side door; the drain holes in the bottom of the door got clogged up and caused the inside of the door to rust before I got it. The hood should be replaced as well due to some minor damage. All the car needs is a little body work (ie - new seals, new door, primer) to prep for paint and some interior work and this car will be gorgeous. This car put down 300hp and 320ft/lbs trq on the dyno at the wheels at about 5,000 feet altitude and weighs less than a Honda Civic! I put close to $25,000 into this car to do it right and have every receipt to prove it.

 

I am selling this car because I will be moving to Germany soon and need to part with some of my toys :(

 

Many of you have used my write-up on how to install an LS1 into a 240Z so you know it is done right! (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123533)

 

If interested, pm me or e-mail me at [email protected] I am located in Sierra Vista, AZ (about 45 minutes south of Tucson).

 

Dyno video:

(the writing has been removed from the door, lol)

 

Lots more pics and videos available upon request.

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Guest Grenade300

Asking $10,000 - Aside from needing paint and interior, this car is in awesome conditon.

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My Dad's 280 is the one John at JCI used to pioneer the V8 kit. I have been shopping for a while for a new toy and yours has a lot of what i would want, already done. I am honestly supprised that you didn't show higher RWHP #'s as the LS1 is under rated and you have upgraded the fuel system and seem to have a pretty straight exhaust.

 

Which parts of the JCI kit did you use? I know you didn't need the converter for the speedo as you replaced all the gauges. What mpg are you getting? Have you upgraded the brakes any? Can you post or send pics of the passenger side of the car, the front end and a couple of the custom dash and interior?

 

Thanks Bro,

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My Dad's 280 is the one John at JCI used to pioneer the V8 kit. I have been shopping for a while for a new toy and yours has a lot of what i would want, already done. I am honestly supprised that you didn't show higher RWHP #'s as the LS1 is under rated and you have upgraded the fuel system and seem to have a pretty straight exhaust.

 

Which parts of the JCI kit did you use? I know you didn't need the converter for the speedo as you replaced all the gauges. What mpg are you getting? Have you upgraded the brakes any? Can you post or send pics of the passenger side of the car, the front end and a couple of the custom dash and interior?

 

Thanks Bro,

 

Yeah that ^ More pics please

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Guest Grenade300
My Dad's 280 is the one John at JCI used to pioneer the V8 kit. I have been shopping for a while for a new toy and yours has a lot of what i would want, already done. I am honestly supprised that you didn't show higher RWHP #'s as the LS1 is under rated and you have upgraded the fuel system and seem to have a pretty straight exhaust.

 

Which parts of the JCI kit did you use? I know you didn't need the converter for the speedo as you replaced all the gauges. What mpg are you getting? Have you upgraded the brakes any? Can you post or send pics of the passenger side of the car, the front end and a couple of the custom dash and interior?

 

Thanks Bro,

 

I used the JCI mounts for the engine and tranny and the exhaust headers. The driveshaft was replaced when I installed the 300ZX rear end.

 

The car is not running A/C: I relocated the alternator to its current location.

 

Brakes are stock aside from using a 280ZX master cylinder.

 

I don't know what the MPG of the car; never took the time to measure it.

 

I was a little sad about the RWHP numbers as well, but I also bear in mind that the dyno I used was at a car show and just a trailer dyno. They didn't even ask what my final drive ratio was.

 

I will be happy to post more pics this evening when I get home. In the mean time, I took a series of 6 videos, 2 minutes long each where I did a full walk around the Z and a short drive. PM me your e-mail addresss and I will send you the videos; I think they show a lot more than pictures ever would.

 

Scott

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Guest Grenade300

More pics as promised.

 

Front of the car in pic 1

Damage to the hood in pic 2

2 passenger side shots in pics 3 and 4

pic of the dash in pic 5

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Guest Grenade300

More pics

 

3 more pics of the dash and console

2 pics of the two cracks in the body work

 

Those cracks would take about an hour to fix. One occoured when I fell against the fender while changing a light in the garage and the other occured during the diff swap.

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Guest Grenade300

I sent the videos out to ya'll. Let me know if there is somebody who did not get them.

 

Scott

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Nice video's ... Thank you.

 

1. How does the hood latch? - I noticed its missing because of the fuel regulator.

 

2. Have you done anything to stiffen the body? - My Dad's 280 twists despite a 4 pt roll cage, and front and rear strut tower braces.

 

3. What is the 4th light on the dash for? - I get the left and right turn signals and i am assuming one of them is for when your brights are on. I like the way you reworked the dash and console to use the new gauges, but not lose any of the function present in the stock gauges.

 

4. Do you have seat belts? - I don't remember seeing any. Doesn't ultimately matter, as i would be changing out the interior, but would make it hard to drive back home.

 

5. Is the car still registered in TX? - That is where i am at.

 

6. Are the vents behind the side windows still functional and have you had any issues with rain getting in now?

 

7. What is the ground clearance to the exhaust running under the rear diff? We had to use ovaled exhaust pipe to keep the 280 drivable. (speed bumps)

 

I will pm you my cell so we can talk.

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Guest Grenade300
Nice video's ... Thank you.

 

1. How does the hood latch? - I noticed its missing because of the fuel regulator.

 

2. Have you done anything to stiffen the body? - My Dad's 280 twists despite a 4 pt roll cage, and front and rear strut tower braces.

 

3. What is the 4th light on the dash for? - I get the left and right turn signals and i am assuming one of them is for when your brights are on. I like the way you reworked the dash and console to use the new gauges, but not lose any of the function present in the stock gauges.

 

4. Do you have seat belts? - I don't remember seeing any. Doesn't ultimately matter, as i would be changing out the interior, but would make it hard to drive back home.

 

5. Is the car still registered in TX? - That is where i am at.

 

6. Are the vents behind the side windows still functional and have you had any issues with rain getting in now?

 

7. What is the ground clearance to the exhaust running under the rear diff? We had to use ovaled exhaust pipe to keep the 280 drivable. (speed bumps)

 

I will pm you my cell so we can talk.

 

1. The hood is heald by hood pins

 

2. I haven't stiffened the body yet. Once it reaches 400 ft/lsb I would seriously consider it if not sooner (it was on my to do list).

 

3. Thanks, I'm really proud of the dash. Lights on the dash are the 2 blinkers, high beam light and check engine light.

 

4. Yes, the seatbelts are the new retractable seatbelts sold by MSA (both sides).

 

5. The car is registered in TX. Since I am military I get to keep my TX registration and I just renewed it recently.

 

6. The vents are functional. I really don't drive the car in the rain if possible, but have been caught in it a few times. The vents don't seem to let any water in. If it did, I put drain holes on both sides for that.

 

7. The lowest part of the exhaust is about 3.5" - 4" off the ground. I believe that the new rims would lift the car a little. I have little trouble with speed bumps, but definitely avoid certain parking lots in my area because of their obtuse speed bumps (Safeway is the worst here...Stock Corvettes scrape and I have never taken the Z there because of it).

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Guest Grenade300

Dropping price to $8,000.

 

Scott

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Guest Grenade300

The cracks in the body work have been fixed.

 

Scott

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