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Wish me luck...at the dyno..


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#1 280Zone

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 10:43 PM

Long story shortened, had 1st V8 car loved it, traded for a "better" V8 Z ended up not being "better" but worse. Bought another engine that was "better" but ended up not better. Third transmission, after trying to find a true automatic. Now have totally rebuilt turbo 350 trans and a brand new Year One crate engine with 400 "dyno" horsepower. If this doesn't give me 350 Hp to the rear wheels lots of parts are going up for sale! Do or die this Friday!

#2 mustard-z

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 03:55 PM

good luck!

#3 Magnum380Z

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 04:10 PM

this will be interesting! Good luck!

#4 big-phil

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 04:37 PM

If your having a blowout sale for super cheap, I hope you get 218 at the wheels. If you'll sell it all for going market, I hope you break 350:mrgreen::mrgreen:

Good luck!!!

1978 280Z with an rb30/25det, garrett gt35r, haltech platinum pro, wire specialties harness, rc 750cc injectors, z31 fs5r30a 5 speed, rb25 bell housing, ACT clutch lsd rear, 20lbs of boost....... and lots of YouTube videos to prove it lol http://www.youtube.c...0z?feature=mhee


#5 janaka

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 06:06 AM

^^^ LOL

I'm hoping for 366rwhp for ya!
'76 Datsun 280z
LS1/T56 swap
11.77@119.98
363hp/353tq

#6 fastzcars

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 01:31 PM

You'll probably get approx 340 rwhp, at that 400 crank hp.
Keep the rubber side down.

#7 Magnum380Z

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 03:00 PM

I hope you hit the mark!

#8 John Scott

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 03:28 PM

Just an idea, but go to any 1/4 mile track, take your
(trap speed X .00426) X (trap speed X .00426) x (trap speed X .00426) X weight. It will be approximate of a typical dynojet..weather conditions, altitude make big differences...The good thing is you also have an actual measurement with the car rolling down the road, not a controlled dynocell.
I'm guessing low 300s, 325 for a number. Dyno'd on the stand is worlds apart from living in a Z engine compartment, exhaust compromises, heat, airflow.
Good luck and hope you get more than you hoped for.
Too much is never enough.

#9 jack46

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Posted 11 June 2009 - 09:37 AM

There are many good drag calculators on line given et, mph, weight etc. I suggest if you want an estimate of what performance to expect go to one of the following

http://www.stealth31...c-hp-et-mph.htm

http://www.wallacera...m/et-hp-mph.php

http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm

http://robrobinette.com/et.htm


Good luck with the dyno

#10 Pyro

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Posted 11 June 2009 - 09:41 AM

400hp crank will make about 320 at the wheels.

#11 280Zone

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 09:31 PM

Year One crate engine advertised as a 400+ hp engine. Dyno results I end up with 236 at the wheels. Seems I lost 100HP in shipping.

#12 Savage42

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 09:43 PM

Oh, then there is something seriously off. Did you run the A/F ratio sniffer on the exhaust? I'd assume you have something off with ignition, mixture or cam timing? Definitely down 100 HP!! Hope you figure it out!! (the parking brake was off, right) ;)

Gary Savage - http://www.Savage42.com
 


#13 Savage42

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 09:47 PM

If your having a blowout sale for super cheap, I hope you get 218 at the wheels. If you'll sell it all for going market, I hope you break 350:mrgreen::mrgreen:

Good luck!!!


SEE......Phil jinxed the deal!!! "The Force is strong with this one!!"

Gary Savage - http://www.Savage42.com
 


#14 Tony D

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 03:34 AM

I've see that before. A 383 dynoed at 244 to the rear wheels, it took another year or so playing with G-Tech and WBO2 to get everything dialed in and making 300+ to the rears.It's more than bolting it all together, unfortunately. Torque is probably pretty good, but to get anywhere near that HP, you will need to do some fine tuning.Disapointing, I know, but it's the way it is...

#15 Magnum380Z

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 04:03 AM

That sucks, I would try to find out the the tuning specs/conditions they used to reach those numbers.

#16 280Zone

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 10:43 PM

The engine is a vortec 350 with these specs;
Compression ratio: 9.5:1
* Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
* Recommended fuel: 92 octane
* Max recommended RPM- 6000
* Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
* Crankshaft: Nodular iron
* Pistons: Hypereutectic
* Connecting rods: Powdered metal
* Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
* Valve lift:.520"
* Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
* Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
* Cylinder heads: Ported Vortec
* Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
* Valve springs: Heavy duty
* Bore x Stroke: 4.030" x 3.48"
* Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum

with a Holley 770 street avenger, MSD 6al ingition, HEI Distributor, Sanderson cast iron headers/manifolds, electric fan and water pump.

Ran the tail pipe sniffer and had a target of 13 Air/Fuel. Swapped out the jets a couple of time to get it consistant through the whole run.

Sending dyno results to YearOne to see if they can shed any light on the subject.

Attached Files



#17 rustorbust

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Posted 16 June 2009 - 11:56 AM

How much total timing do you have in it?

#18 Magnum380Z

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Posted 16 June 2009 - 01:22 PM

another possibility is too read the info from Year one to make sure you have not missed anything.

#19 rucus01

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Posted 16 June 2009 - 02:57 PM

The engine is a vortec 350 with these specs;
Compression ratio: 9.5:1
* Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
* Recommended fuel: 92 octane
* Max recommended RPM- 6000
* Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
* Crankshaft: Nodular iron
* Pistons: Hypereutectic
* Connecting rods: Powdered metal
* Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
* Valve lift:.520"
* Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
* Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
* Cylinder heads: Ported Vortec
* Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
* Valve springs: Heavy duty
* Bore x Stroke: 4.030" x 3.48"
* Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum

with a Holley 770 street avenger, MSD 6al ingition, HEI Distributor, Sanderson cast iron headers/manifolds, electric fan and water pump.

Ran the tail pipe sniffer and had a target of 13 Air/Fuel. Swapped out the jets a couple of time to get it consistant through the whole run.

Sending dyno results to YearOne to see if they can shed any light on the subject.




I would check the timing and make sure its following the a good curve. You could have too much or not enough timing. Find out from year one what it should be when its all in. Also check your manifold temperature and see if its too hot. Check your exahust manifold for any leaks. You mention that you are using a cast Iron manifold, its possible it isnt sufficent for that combo. What size and what kind of exahust do you have on the car past the manifold ? That cam has a decent amount of overlap and if you arent extracting properly your mixture will be dirty and you HP will be way down.

#20 280Zone

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Posted 16 June 2009 - 08:58 PM

My exhaust is different than what year one uses for dyno testing, they used long tube headers I have Sanderson cast iron block hugger "headers" manifolds. The intake manifold temps were just over 100 (I am in Phoenix and our daytime temps are running in the high 90's). Water temp in the engine runs about 160 degrees. I can't quite figure that out either since I run a stock Z car radiator, no thermostat only a restrictor plate because of the electric water pump. I admit my exhaust after the manifolds sucks cause the shop didn't listen to what I want and gave me what they wanted. Going to the track this Friday to see what numbers it runs then will probably run a lager straight pipe with no mufflers next time to compare. Still waiting for Year one to respond...




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