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wouldnt a front sump pan have the engine sit too far forward and mess up how the car handles? i dont think you could keep the engine low enough or far back enough for it to work...

 

The trans will fit, but worst case is, you just have to "massage" the trans tunnel. The only thing i wouldve had problems fitting is if i had used a TH400 because the bellhousing is MASSIVE. I wouldve had to beat the ♥♥♥♥ out of the tunnel.

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Aaron D    10

I appreciate the input guys, but the GTO oil pan will not work in this case. If you'll note in Post #2 and in the last pic of post #12, only a rear sump pan will clear without raising the engine several inches. The truck oil pan comes close to being perfect, but the rear sump is too deep and objects in the road would hit it if I were to use it as shown in the last pic of post #12.

 

Sorry I haven't posted much at all. I've been unemployed and my C6 LS2 exhaust manifolds have been on back order since before I lost my job. I did receive an email though that my manifolds have been shipped finally though, so that ought to give me some new pics to post soon!

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Aaron D    10

Sorry for the super long delay. I ordered these LS2 C6 manifolds 6/28 and didn't get them until today due to a combination of backorder and the vendor shipping them to an old address, but they're finally here and mocked up.

 

 

 

Driver Side:

 

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Looks bad....

 

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Psych! Plenty of room for a kink! ha ha!

 

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Passenger Side:

 

More cluttered... Must move fuel line.

 

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It's a minor update, but it makes me feel good to have SOMETHING to post up since I'm unemployed and all.

 

 

 

Now I have to save for the transmission...

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Guest NESS89   
Guest NESS89

Thats exactly how my stock manifolds mounted up in my Z, I thought they were going to work but ended up just getting the JTR headers.

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Finally got my engine/trans mounted. My only issue with my setup is the F-body oil pan requires a high engine mount position. The upside is that the pan sits level with the crossmember so I won't have issues with ground clearance. It seems a bit high, but my stock hood will fit, so I'm happy. I've matched up my output shaft with the pinion angle and everything looks fine. The mounts need a finish weld, but I'm far enough to start my brake/fuel systems. I suppose I should start my own thread and stop stealing yours.

 

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Used stock VG30E mounts, cut waaaayyy too far, hence the giant gap.

 

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Aaron D    10

Thanks for the update! Looks like you could definitely build an informative build thread now. My thread has been stale for a while due to lack of funds (Still unemployed). The only update I've got right now is a few replaced interior pieces.

 

I have a question though, Did you ever swap your intake around for clearance or were you able to get your hood to clear without having to do that?

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I was able to drop down enough to make it fit. I'll have to notch out some of the hood supports, but it will fit. With that autokraft pan, you should be fine. My pan requires me to mount the engine about 1-2 inches higher up, but I wanted to protect the sump, so I kept my pan. I suppose a modified f-body pan would work as well. The sloped section right in front of the sump area interferes with the steering rack unless you cut the firewall and move the engine back another inch or two. If you can weld aluminum, you might be able to cut that part out (not sure how that would affect the pickup tube).

 

Definitely go with the car water pump and balancer. The truck pump's outlet sticks up past the ls1 throttle body and would actually require me to cut a hole in my hood to run the hose. That would get some looks :mrgreen:.

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Aaron D    10

523lbs with oil, manifolds, intake, water pump, and flywheel etc. Basically everything except the Harness, A/C compressor, Alternator, Power steering pump, Clutch fan, or accessory brackets.

 

The Iron block engines add approximately 65lbs to the LSx package vs the Aluminum block versions. I've owned both, there is no great reason for the expense of the sleeved aluminum blocks IMO.

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Juicy J    10

Pretty cool project. I wish you the best of luck. There are 2 people I can think of that tried this swap and ended up giving up. The vertical dimensions of an LSX create a lot of problems with trying to make it fit. You might get by with using a cowl hood, but even that may present some issues. If I remember correctly, the intake manifold/piping is going to cause some issues at the front of the hood, which might make is hard to even use a cowl hood.

 

My fiance's dad has a Z31 with a SBC. It was impossible to use a stock hood with this set up because the carb was about an inch too tall. They ended up having to put a scoop (actually looks decent) in order to clear the carb.

 

Good luck man.

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Still haven't gotten around to making my own thread, but I do have an update: Hooker LS1 block huggers fit my car quite well. They clear my engine mounts, and should clear the steering rack with a slight s-bend.

 

I'm currently deciding on HP Tuners/EFI Live to delete the VATS and trouble codes so I can start this beast! Then I get to pull it back out for a cam swap...

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Ken in AZ    10

Make that 3 of us - 6.0 LQ4 here. I'm using a 4l80E transmission with hope of adding some boost down the road.

 

I thought I was buying an LQ9 but I checked the piston tops and they are dished so it's definitely an LQ4. It's an 05' Electronic Throttle engine that will be retained due to the ease of retaining cruise ontrol with a simple 3 wire hook-up.

 

Right now I'm struggling with oil pan clearance issues and weather or not to buy a new pan from Moroso or Autokraft, or buy the new LH8 Styled cast oil pan from retroLSX.com. they are all about $400 and I'm leaning towards the Moroso pan but the shorter LH8 cast pan from retroLSX looks likea good option too.

 

Thanks for your pictures of the LS2 LS6 manifolds - definitely answers the question as to what headers to use.

 

I'll try to post pics soon.

 

Ken

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badboyz31    0

yea same here with the boosting down the rod thats why I went with the 5.3L LM7, also I have not decided on the tranny yet either a nv3500 5 speed or a t-56, im leaning towards this option. Plus I think I might either chop the oil pan about 2 inches or get an f-body one. I too will keep you guys updated with progress.

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Yea... I had to introduce my trans tunnel to Mr. Sledge for the TH350 because i wanted to sit the engine back as far a possible without cutting the firewall to retain a good weight balance. Your engine bay has so much stuff in it still lol. I took out everything not related to my needs. I still need to cut the harness out though. I just haven't felt like tracing all the wires. Probably next week.

 

Damn you guys and your Gen 3/4 engines... I get to use a Gen2 LT1... Im not baller like you guys.

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Ken in AZ    10

Yeah - I've been afraid to cut too many wires incase I need them later. I plan on cutting them after I get the engine in there and getting rid of every unecessary items. I'm planning on retaining the AC too so not sure about that either.

 

I just bought some Hookers Block hugger Headers off ebay - hopefully they work out but they were cheap enough at $200 so not complaining too bad. there is a local guy selling some GTO manifols on CL so if they don't work maybe I can pic those up cheap - they look alot like those LS2 C6 manifolds

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Yeah - I've been afraid to cut too many wires incase I need them later. I plan on cutting them after I get the engine in there and getting rid of every unecessary items. I'm planning on retaining the AC too so not sure about that either.

 

I just bought some Hookers Block hugger Headers off ebay - hopefully they work out but they were cheap enough at $200 so not complaining too bad. there is a local guy selling some GTO manifols on CL so if they don't work maybe I can pic those up cheap - they look alot like those LS2 C6 manifolds

 

 

The hookers fit my car pretty well. Tight on the steering shaft, but doable.

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Aaron D    10

Hey thanks for keeping the thread alive guys. It's great to see others doing LSx swaps in Z31's too! Sorry I haven't posted in a while, but it's because I've been busy working on a way to get my Z going. I couldn't see ripping all the LQ9 truck parts off of my engine set up and having my computer retuned for a manual like I'd planned and letting all those "spare" parts go to waste, so I came up with a plan to use my complete pull-out LQ9 engine/harness etc with an automatic trans in another car as a swap to turn a buck and use the proceeds from that sale to pay for what I should have used in this Z to begin with... A complete pull-out LS2/M6 from a GTO or G8. It just makes more sense to go that route.

 

 

This LQ9 now has a set of Comp Cams 918 valve springs, JLP Double Roller timing chain set, and a Comp Cams 224/224 - .581/.581 114 cam in it. Funny thing is, I was still able to use the C6 LS2 manifolds in this swap, just reversed.

 

Here are pics of my LQ9/trans in it's new home, it's not quite done yet, but it'll be done soon. I just need a radiator, oil pan, and those various bits and pieces that all swaps involve.

 

Make no mistake, My project 600zx has not died!!! This Jag is going to pay for finishing my Z the way I want!

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Edited by Aaron D

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