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I picked up a blown B4C yesterday for cheap, so I decided I'd hook it up to my 4L65-E and take some mock up pics to see if the F-body oil pan would fit. Turns out it wouldn't fit in without hammering on the transmission tunnel and I didn't feel like doing that since I plan on staying with a manual transmission on this car. I then took the transmission off and tried fitting the engine down into the car to take pics for everyone.

 

The F-Body pan looks like it could be made to work, but the engine would have to be set very far back, the closest head would be about 2-3/4" to 3" at most from the firewall and the driver side chassis motor mount would have to be either modified or eliminated to accommodate the F-body alternator location. I don't think the A/C compressor has any chance of fitting with the F-body brackets at all, but I'll check into it again later.

 

But in the end, the Autokraft oil pan is the absolute best answer for this chassis. It is the perfect fit for this car.

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Still waiting on the Autokraft oil pan.

 

I have nothing better to do than mock things up as best I can, so...

 

Here are more pics of the engine pretty much fully dressed with the truck pan on. I have a set of TransDapt engine mounts on the engine, even with the engine setting farther forward the existing driver side chassis engine mount interferes with the alternator location using the Camaro accessory set up, the mount will have to be customized. There appears to be plenty of room for an A/C compressor though. Best part, there is plenty of hood clearance for the TBW! Downside, hoodlatch will have to go :(

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Still waiting on the Autokraft oil pan.

 

I have nothing better to do than mock things up as best I can, so...

 

Here are more pics of the engine pretty much fully dressed with the truck pan on. I have a set of TransDapt engine mounts on the engine, even with the engine setting farther forward the existing driver side chassis engine mount interferes with the alternator location using the Camaro accessory set up, the mount will have to be customized. There appears to be plenty of room for an A/C compressor though. Best part, there is plenty of hood clearance for the TBW! Downside, hoodlatch will have to go :(

 

wow it seems to fit in there pretty great, I will have to get some pics of mine too, doing the same swap but into a 86 300zx, basically if you guys have heard of a Forum meber by the name of 1sickZ, I bought his chassis to do this swap into. Should be fun to DD and race everyday!

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Yeah, I know of the 1sickZ guy's car, I've seen a few of the streetfire videos. Quick car!

 

The Autokraft oil pan was supposed to ship out thursday, so hopefully I'll get some updates for everyone soon. Then it'll be a while before any new news from me most likely as I'll be finishing up the Jag and selling it to finish the Z!

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Autokraft rocks.

 

The new Autokraft pan allows the engine to set a little bit lower in the engine bay without the sump hanging lower than the crossmember and that's about it. Can't really move it any further forward than I had it with the truck pan (not that it was going to be used anyway), just saying. It gives PLENTY of space between the pan and the crossmember and if you're brave you could lower the engine even more lowering the sump beyond the crossmember, but I'd save that for a track car.

 

This will be my last mock-up type of update for a while folks since I'm changing what engine set up I'm using in this car. I'll still be using a 6.0L GenIII SBC engine with an Autokraft pan etc. Just going with the GTO eng/trans pullout as mentioned before. I hope this helps some folks!

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http://www.autokraft.org/products/

 

If you are installing an LSx engine in your 1st Gen Camaro or Firebird then this is the pan for you! No more cutting and patching your factory cast pan. Requires no modifications to the crossmember. Will clear stock steering linkage. Features include: Four corner internal baffles (Road race style) Custom oil pickup and billet oil filter adapter.

 

Call (715) 874-5921 to order LS1/LS2 oil pan package $399.95

 

It comes with with everything pictured and you'll pay shipping to boot. You'll need an F-body dipstick and tube if you don't already have one. If you have a spacer on your oil pump like I did to use a double roller timing chain, you'll have to slot the mounting hole for the pick up tube since the pump spacer moves it forward a tad.

 

In my opinion it's a pretty good solution. You can make the F-body oil pan work too. To use the F-body pan though you'll need to recess your engine/transmission closer to the firewall or create some clearance between the steering rack and the oil pan some other way.

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Edited by Aaron D

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Still working. Ran into some rust issues and found a better shell.

 

http://tech.240sxone.com/186/lsx-clutch-hydraulics/

 

This clutch master cylinder adapter for a wilwood in a 240sx works perfectly in a Z31. My engine should be going in for good this week. Need a driveshaft, radiator, and HP tuners to finish my project.

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lol you seem to be the only one still following through with this project....I got a good deal on a 73 240z and decided to through my turbo LSx swap into it instead....well actually to be honest I'm still debating whether to fix the 240z and us it as my DD and swap this engine and set up in my Z31 instead, I will decide soon as I get the 240z to my house!

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Still at it. Cash is tight and time is limited. Had my PCM VATS/Emissions deleted by lt1swap.com to save time and money on HP Tuners. Engine is in and assembled, PCM fits nicely on the drivers fender/frame rail (pics eventually). Coolant tank from a 96 Saab 900 fits well in the battery tray (most 90's Saturn bottles will fit as well). Heater hoses are a bit tight to the intake, but doable. Hood is on and closes with over an inch of clearance on the throttle body. Cruise control module fits. Headers are wrapped and coated. Clutch is in and bled. Vacuum lines are in. Shifter sorted out (a bit far forward, but it will work) Down to the driveshaft, an idler pulley (f-body alternator setup would fit, but I can't seem to find one), some hoses, and a minor redo of my harness (original setup won't fit well and looks awful so I'm redoing it). I should have this thing running within a few weeks. Hopefully its drivable by mid summer.

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Here's my first run in all is nighttime lame camera glory! Don't mind my mom in the background.

<video removed>

Doesn't seem to be running quite right, but there are no O2 sensors and the MAF wasn't installed. It starts stuttering once it warms up enough to trip the engine light. Found that the throttle isn't opening all the way either. And my steering wheel is upside down.... Hopefully the bugs will work themselves out and this thing will be ready by next pay.

Edited by i r teh noobz

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Still waiting on an exhaust, but I've been driving it anyway. About 600 miles thus far with no issues. Seemed pretty even with an LS1 Camaro SS (any mods are unknown aside from an exhaust) on a 2nd gear pull. I'd say around a 13 flat is attainable with decent tires. Not bad for what is essentially a stock 5.3. Hopefully some O2s and a tune will get me some more power. Either a cam or forced induction is on the schedule for the winter.

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