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BRAAP

LSX powered BMW M3, E36 chassis...

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Recently purchased a '97 BMW M3 Sedan as a daily driver to accept an LSx. Car is Cosmos Black, 5 speed, 191,000 miles on the clock. I was originally going to install the LSx in my ’93 300-ZX, but when it became painfully obvious that to do so would require cutting up the Z-32, (something I was not willing to do), I made the decision to jump ship for the BMW E36, keeping with a RWD sports car and the ability to swap in my LSx. :2thumbs:

 

Currently the BMW M3 runs and drives excellent, has no power-train issues, easily runs every bit of its rated mid to high 14 second 1/4 mile time. Previous owner installed Brembo Big Brake kit and Bilstein dampers.

 

The project is moving forward, sold the M3 power train to a local HBZ member that will be installing it in an S-30 chassis. (He drove the M3 a few times and feels that the BMW M3 power train would be SAH-WEET in a Z car…) :wink:

 

My approach to the LSx powered E36 is one of simple functionality while retaining the quality BMW ride and driving experience, i.e. no harsh vibrations, loud exhaust etc. A no nonsense LSx conversion. Nothing radical, not blingy, just a simple, “affordable” LSx powered E-36 daily driver that gets comparable MPG as the original power-plant, when not mashing the loud pedal.

 

I am sitting on a 2001 5.3 out of my wifes '01 Suburban, GM RPO LM7. At 160,xxx this 5.3 it ate the cam. Bought her a used 5.3 engine and swapped it in her Burb, she his tickled pink. So am I as I now have a "starter motor" for my E36. Removed the heads and removed the bungled camshaft and lifters, (detailed write up regarding the camshaft over on ls1tech.com). Purchased a 2001 Vette LS1 camshaft, new roller lifters, several other parts and goodies including oil pans, exhaust manifolds for mock ups, etc. Picked up a WS6 T-56 and LS6 clutch/flywheel package that is currently sitting under the bench right now awaiting installation! Long term plan is to stuff a pert-neer stock 6.0 under the hood,

 

I do have some help with this particular project, updates with details and pics will be sparse during the beginning, though when the “helper” is satisfied and deems all systems are go, there will be plenty of details, pics, etc. From my conversations with my helper, Once we start posting the specifics with details, etc, anyone else interested in doing this conversion with this approach will be very interested in…

 

Here are some shots of the car.

 

DSC_3878.jpg

 

DSC_3903.jpg

 

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More info on the car itself.

Installed an Alpine head unit and some speakers as soon as I picked up the car, nothing special, just need tunes that sounded little better than OE. Replaced the front corner lights with smoked and had HID Euro Ellipsoids on the way, what a mess that was, will revisit headlights after the V-8 is up and running.... Today made a couple other interior changes as well. Mostly getting tired of my iPhone charge cord always being tangled up around the shifter. I keep my iPhone in the cubby behind the shifter next to the parking brake, sometimes under the parking brake handle itself. I don’t like it in the sunglasses cubby ahead of the shifter as it is bit small and the cord was still obnoxious and in the way there as well. Being that is the only use I have for the 12v power port, (Valentine 1 is to be hardwired just as I had it in my 280-Z, Q-45 and 300-ZX) the most logical location to me is just under the arm rest next to the cubby where I keep the iPhone. After disassembling the arm rest and center console, I committed myself modifying the arm rest structure to get the power port in that location, (owning a specialty 240-260-280-Z car shop helps). In the end, I am VERY pleased with out come.

 

Now with the power port relocated, that left this awkward hole just ahead of the shifter. A few days ago I mentioned to my good friend that I was thinking about installing my S-2000 “Engine Start” button in that location that I had in my 240-Z race car! He just laughed and walked away… I’m convinced we all have some “ricer” in us, mine turned up as this start button, (i.e. the current starting system functions fine, but still have the desire to change it to something different, even though “different” does not enhance the functionality, only the visual presentation.. ) So I installed it as well. I connected the illumination portion to the old cig light lighting wires. Just need to connect the button to the starter wire and it’ll be functional.

 

Tried to get some pics of the illumination, pics didn’t come out so good, but you’ll get the idea. The OBC lighting is the normal dark orange, but for some reason shows up pink in the pics?!?!

 

First pic is the original power port with the charge cord tangled around shifter…

old-pwr-prt.jpg

 

 

This picture is of the new power port location;

new-pwr-prt.jpg

 

 

The Honda S-2000 start button, (looks OE);

Start1.jpg

 

Illumintaed;

Start-illum.jpg

 

Overall interior shot, iPhone is charging under the arm rest, out of sight, no obnoxious cords in the way. :wink:

Int1.jpg

 

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Auto darkening mirror and Valentine 1 hardwire!

 

Added some more “de-luxing” to the '97 M car. Spent the past 4 nights hit and miss, head scratching to see if it would feasible to get the auto darkening rear view mirror from my Infiniti Q-45 into the M3. Also wanting to permanently mount and hardwire the Valentine 1, I pursued both as one project. End result, I’m quite pleased! workinprogress.gif

 

The ’96 Q-45 used to be my daily driver for several years. Back in Jan ’07, sitting in traffic in Down Town Portland, the driver of a Dodge Dakota, looking down/phone/??? plowed into the back of me, didn’t hit the brakes, totaling the Q ship. Thank goodness I had my head rest raised and my head planted firmly against the head rest when he hit. Neither of us were injured.

Any how, bought the Q-ship back from insurance for a song and a dance with intentions of cannibalizing its various features for future projects, such as this.

Also have the Factory Infiniti service manual for the car making it quite easy for projects such as this, (wiring diagrams are awesome in the factory service manual.)

 

The Infiniti mirror has all its auto tinting electronics built into the mirror itself, requiring just an “ignition-on” power source and a ground! Same for the V-1.

 

After getting the Q mirror base modified to fit the BMW, (cut off the top 3” of the mounting base), I mocked it up with the V-1 beside it, to be sure it would clear the Mirror, windshield, mirror mount, AND the drivers sun visor when swung down, I marked out the location of the BMW circular spring mount. Armed with a Bridgeport milling machine and a 3mm x .5mm tap, tapped the 3 holes into the Q mirror base to accept the BMW mount. Now the new mirror attaches to the BMW windshield mirror mount, just as OE with the sprung “break-away” feature.

 

Formed up the V-1 mount using 22 gage sheet metal to accept the visor mount for the V-1, (this is how I mounted the V-1 in my Datsun 280-Z, Infiniti Q-45, Nissan 300-ZX and now the M3…) After verifying it was broke up on the correct angles, etc, I flattened the pattern out and traced that out onto 18 gage sheet metal for the actual mount bracket. The finished bracket isn’t perfect, but looks great where visible once installed. wink.gif After verifying that it fit as desired, painted it in wrinkle black paint last night, today spent he day reassembling the mirror, bracket, and wiring. V-1 works perfectly as does the auto darkening rear view mirror, or as Nissan calls it in the service manual, “Auto anti-dazzling mirror”.

 

Here are a few pics of the install.

 

brkt1.jpg

 

brkt2.jpg

 

mnt1.jpg

 

mnt2.jpg

 

side.jpg

 

installed.jpg

Edited by BRAAP

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Earlier this week I established the engine removal to be when this last full tank of premium hit ¼ tank! Since Ron committed to the M3 engine for his 260-Z, he has been bugging me ad-nauseum to remove it. Rons wife made it crystal clear to Ron while we were all standing in the shop recently; "Finish the 510 project before you start any other projects!" noway.gif As soon as she leaves the immediate vicinity he starts bugging me about pulling the engine and mocking it up! I keep threatening to tell his wife he is starting another project... he just stares with a fiendish intensity... :lmao: He is mostly wanting to weigh the engine and trans and just drop it in our S30 mock up mule to verify how well we both feel it will fit, no intentions of starting the conversion until his 510 is done…

 

Well, that ¼ tank is today! :shock: I’m struggling with parking the car and removing the engine. I’m still in the honeymoon phase with the car! Every time I get behind the wheel I get the biggest grin! The M3 is an ultimate driving machine! If you get the chance to drive one, DO IT!

 

So here it is, jack, jack stands, parked in the shop, ready to start yanking the engine…. sigh.gif

 

 

LSxBMW1.jpg

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No turning back now, game is on!

 

 

A couple hours, (and same amount of beers later), including watching the Ken Block Airport video, :2thumbs: here we are!

 

All goes well tomorrow, the engine and trans will be out and the weight of the 3.2L BMW M-3 S52 engine will be posted in the definitive engine weight thread.. :wink:

 

Pretty cool how the entire front end just unbolts from the car allowing an easy removal of the power train eh?! :2thumbs:

 

start1.jpg

 

start2.jpg

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First off, huge thanks to Ron for his patience and not bludgeoning me bash.gif yesterday while in the midst of the engine removal. For some unknown reason, I was not in a very sociable mood, yet Ron resisted the urge to beat me with the handle to the cherry picker pump… please.gif

 

The last few days progress has been snails pace at best, with company, and family to-do’s, etc, though the M3 Engine and trans is finally out! clap.gif

 

Ron and I immediately removed the A/C compressor bracket, hooked up the scale , zeroed the scale with the lifting chain and weighed the engine trans combo. Engine with the Alternator, intake mani, exhaust mani’s, starter, trans w/flywheel-clutch, oil and coolant, both radiator hoses, 512.2 lbs! Removed the trans, clutch and starter, engine alone weighs 406.4 lbs! Lightweight for a twin cam engine with a cast oil pan! :shock: In weighing an LM7 long block at 490 lbs, T-56 is 125-130 lbs, I fully expect the car to gain 150 lbs, give or take 50 lbs… The increase in torque will be worth the penalty. cool.gif

 

More pics…

 

BMW built the hood hinge to hyperextend to pert-neer vertical, i.e. “service” position, no need to remove the hood!

hood.jpg

 

Engine and trans free from the car;

out1.jpg

 

out2.jpg

 

 

Ron found a tag indicating this engine is not the original engine for this car. Might explain why the back side of the valves are “spotless!”

valves.jpg

 

Now the head scratching and reorganization of the engine bay to accept the LSx begins;

bay1.jpg

 

Tools, Fluke DMM, Jack pad, Bentley service manual, LSx swap book, and my 3-ring log book;

Tools.jpg

 

My log book where I am keeping a detailed account of the progress made, notes and tips from others that have graciously shared their knowledge/experience, etc;

Logg.jpg

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July 18th update!

 

 

Finally got around to spending a little time on the car.

Grabbed another stack of my handy dandy manilla wire tags and proceeded to finish tagging each and every engine related connector, hose, plug, wire, etc for the BMW engines new owner while removing the engine harness from the car itself. The original M3 engine is currently being installed in a Datsun 260-Z! I don’t know which is cooler, a Datsun Z car with an M3 engine, (possibly boosted!) or an M3 with an LSx? Race is on! Who'll be up and running first, the M powered Z, or LS powered M? wink.gif

For those interested, Ron started a build thread for the M3 powered Z car… Beauty of that conversion is it is taking place in my shop next to my M3, so I get to drive the Z car once its up and running! zomp.gif

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150505

 

 

Back on topic, LSx powered M car..

 

After removing the engine harness, cleaning up a few other straggler wires, I removed the X-member, rack-&-pinion, then 3 cans of GUNK brand Foamy-Engine-Degreaser later, the engine bay, X-member, rack, etc is ... well... at least not grimy any more! Loosely bolted in the X-member and rack, ready for initial mock up of the Lsx. victory.gif Tossed around the idea of painting the engine bay a smoke gray as I have done in a few other V-8 conversions, (V-8 powered Datsun Z cars), the thought of completely gutting the engine bay including disconnecting the A/C system was not too appealing, and being as this is a daily driver and the car has 192,xxx miles on it, decided against that and to press on with the conversion. OE black is just fine!

 

Next on the agenda is trace out the umbilical wires between the engine and car. Need to know which ones I will use with the LSx so the BMW electrics will be happy and also for the S-52’s new owner being as he has the other end of that 3 plug umbilical and I’m sure the Factory BMW ECM will want a few bits of that information to keep from running in "limp home" mode. I heard a rumor that BMW made the car electrical wiring a bit more invasive/integrated in with the EFI wiring… puzzled.gif Soon to find out by how much…

 

 

The S52 engine harness… It’s not really as menacing as it looks…

S52harness.jpg

 

Engine-to-car Umbilical;

Umbilical.jpg

 

Engine bay, de-grimed;

clnbay.jpg

Edited by BRAAP

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Update with teaser shots…

 

 

Bolted the T-56 up to the Vette LS1 mock up block, (T-56 is out of an ’01 WS6, I have been calling it an ’02, sorry), fitted my 5.3 heads and Vette LS1 intake with truck TB, then stabbed the whole she-bang into the M3! WOO HOO!!!! victory.gifzomp.gif

LSx and T-56 fits WAY nicer, cleaner, better in the BMW than it does the Nissan Z-32 chassis, (Z-32, aka ‘90-‘96 300-ZX)! cool.gif

 

The common two clearance issues stood out immediately,

 

1) ABS unit.

2) Steering shaft.

 

ABS unit is a relocation project. More labor in actually doing it than there will be in head scratching figuring out what is the easiest most logical location.

 

What makes the steering shaft such a hassle is that it is in the way of the primary exhaust runner of the number 7 exhaust port. My helper on this project, (currently undercover in stealth mode), has mentioned a couple ideas that could help clearance wise. I will be evaluating when I can revisit this project.

 

For now, I have to pull away from this project till late next week. Our annual family/friends camp-in/cruise-in/Fly-in is this weekend, I have a HUGE list of to-do’s to get the property ready. workinprogress.gif

 

I’ll leave you with these shots for now. Keep in mind, I merely stabbed the LSx in the car, I did NOT position it in any particular location, did not center it, did not adjust its height, nuttin. Literally just set it in the car and took pics. I’m sure its final mounted position will be shifted fore/aft, left/right, up/down from this initial mock up. wink.gif

 

 

C-5 LS1 mock up block and intake, truck TB, WS-6 T-56! Aka the mocker!

Mocker.jpg

 

Stabbed in the car!

Frtl.jpg

 

DrvrTp.jpg

 

PssTp.jpg

 

Hood clearance;

UndrHd.jpg

 

HdClr.jpg

 

Lowest realistic engine position;

MiHt.jpg

 

Shifter!

Shifter.jpg

 

 

Trans tunnel shots;

Trnstail.jpg

 

TrnsDr.jpg

 

TrnsPs.jpg

 

The infamous steering shaft;

StrShft.jpg

 

StrShft1.jpg

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This update is not real big, just taking care of a few incidentals, getting ready for mounts. :wink:

 

After taking a peek around the trans while stuffed in the car, made note of all the little bosses and protrusions that pose clearance issues or could pose clearance issues.

 

Removed the engine and trans from the car, carved off those nubs, bosses, protrusions, blended them in.

 

Removed the CAGS, (Skip Shift solenoid) from the trans, tapped as deep as my ½” x14 NPT tap would go, then with a metric 13mm plug from a Datsun Z car cylinder head, (thread pitch is perfect match, just slightly smaller diameter), plugged the CAGS hole.

 

The reverse switch could be a clearance issue depending on how far offset the engine is set. +1" to the passenger side, leave approx. 1" between the switch and the tunnel! I may relocate it to the reverse lock out location, will have to play with that a-bit first. Read on…

 

Removed the reverse lock out solenoid only to find it had been gutted by a previous owner! shrug.gif My guess is they either thought it was the CAGS solenoid or was having troubles with it. At any rate, I either need to get another reverse lock out actuator or using the reverse light switch, add some spring tension to it, fab/machine a mount for it to to fit in the T-56 Reverse lock out pocket. The added spring tension the reverse switch would add should reduce the tendency to hit Reverse when aggressively grabbing 5th. cool.gif That' the theory any how... Like the ZF BMW 5 speed, to engage reverse require a LOT of effort to overcome the added spring tension, (keeps from inadvertently grabbing reverse), using that same concept for the T-56. If I am able to make that happen, I wont need skip shift actuator and that will allow the trans to sit closer to the passenger side of the car without interfering with the trans tunnel. victory.gif

 

 

Today spent a couple hours porting my 5.3 cylinder heads, 706 castings. Being as this is my interim LSx and just a 5.3, I didn’t go crazy just a little valve unshrouding, removed the roof of the exhaust port making them “D” ports, and blended the seats into the ports for a smoother transition in that region, (removed the sharp edge/ridge). In the next couple days, time permitting, I will cut the valve seats with 4 or 5 angles, surface the heads and assemble them. Valves have already been faced, added a 30 degree back cut to the exhaust, (intakes already have a 30 degree back-cut from GM).

 

Once the heads are done, will install them back on the short block along with the 2000 Vette cam, (dur @ .050” 198/209 Vlv Lft.500”/.500”, 115.5 deg LSA) LS6 yellow springs, LS6 take out roller lifters, all new gaskets, ported oil pump, new water pump etc. Engine will be ready for mounts in approx 3-4 weeks.

 

Pics of this weeks progress.

 

Some of the bosses removed;

bsss1.jpg

 

 

CAGS plug;

tap.jpg

 

plug.jpg

 

plug1.jpg

 

Head porting;

unshrouding.jpg

 

ExPts.jpg

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Got my lights finally. I’ll spare you the details, (Umnitza, :angry: nuff said!) I’m just glad I got my lights.

 

Side fender and front corner are smoked clear with stealth bulbs. Taillights are smoked with stealth bulbs, headlights are Euro Ellipsoids with glass lenses, HID low beams with 5K bulbs, protective film on the glass, 50w ballasts. I did NOT get the angel eyes. Angel eyes have become so rice now… I personally feel the angle eyes only belong on the 5 series as delivered OE. These Euro lights do have the city lights, which I may install bulbs in, not sure yet.

 

Any how, the lights should help clean up the car visually be getting rid of the amber lenses and the HID’s should improve nighttime forward vision.

 

lighting.jpg

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Had big plans today to get the heads finished, assembled and possibly installed on the short block! Between running my wife’s daily driver into town for new tires and changing the oil in it, then goofing off online, ordering a pilot bearing, etc, I didn’t quite meet my goal though did get a little done. All the treaded holes are now chamfered and chased the threads, removed the broken exhaust bolt and heli-coiled that hole. Tomorrow, I hope to get the machine work done, (cut the seats, deck the heads), as well as final cleaning and assembly. please.gif

 

For those interested, here are all the thread sizes for the various threaded holes in the LSx cylinder heads.

 

Spark plug 14x1.25mm

Coolant temp port 12x1.5mm

Ancillary/accy holes 10x1.5mm

Exhaust manifold 8x1.25

Rocker arm mounting bosses 8x1.25mm

Intake manifold 6x1.0mm

Valve cover hold down 6x1.0mm

Steam tube hold down 6x1.0mm

 

Till the next update…

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Got around to cutting the valve seats and surfacing the heads today. Machine work is now done. 4 angles on the seats, (technically 5, but the chamber cutter only left its radius, not the flat, so I’m not counting it), performed just a tad more hand blending after using the chamber cutter. Intake seats are .040” wide, exhaust seats are .060” wide. Both intake and exhaust valve also have a 30 degree back cut.

 

During surfacing, I only took .004” off each head, they both cleaned up 100% in .003”. (A huge thank you to my wife for not overheating the engine over the past 160,xxx miles).smooch.gif

 

Next step is to CC the chambers, setup the valve train, final clean, assembly, then attach the heads to the short block. victory.gif

 

 

Intake and exhaust seats just after the first cut, 3 angles, (30, 45 and 60 degrees). The final 2 angles are added with separate cutters.

3angl.jpg

 

Ready to be removed from the mill after being surfaced;

mach2.jpg

 

mach3.jpg

 

Machine work done, awaiting final clean;

mach4.jpg

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Happiness is;

Torqueing the last bolt on your LSx long block!

 

I dub this mild 5.3 the LS-7/8ths. (just shy of an LS1). wink.gif

 

Found a good spot for the 16 valve emblem, though probably will end up putting it under the hood somewhere.

Valve covers will be wrinkle black! victory.gif

 

 

cvrls.jpg

 

cvr.jpg

 

 

16vM.jpg

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Ohhh.. Ahhh..

Wrinkle black valve covers…

Sorry there isn’t much more than that right now… I’ve been asked to “slow down”! caffeine.gif Problem with that is if I go any slower I’ll stall! wink.gif I’ve got approx 2-3 more weeks of head scratching, gives my help a little more time. workinprogress.gif

 

 

blkvlv.jpg

 

blkvlv1.jpg

 

blkvlv2.jpg

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Not much to update. Just stabbing, restabbing, and stabbing the power train in and out of the car, looking for that elusive sweet spot mounting location. After some component modification and then finessing the power-train in a few locations in the car, I did find a spot I like with few compromises. Keeps the crank C/L “angle(up and down) in line with the OE BMW, decent “compromise” in clearance around the typical tight areas. wink.gif

 

Gahts a bits mah hed itch-en bed-fah I’s commits to dis spot…

 

DSC_2990.jpg

 

DSC_2992.jpg

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Wow, my last update was a week an half ago?!?! faint.gif

Truth be told, I’ve been lazy the past week and a half, not much physical progress. Went out to the shop and looked over the car a bit, looked over the pan/x-member a bit, glanced at the cruise control, pretty sure I found a cool new location for the ABS module, found a neat little reverse switch mod, (reverse switch on the trans is REAL close to the trans tunnel), drank more than few FOSTERS’s over that period… This whacked out work schedule I’m sure has had some influence on the lack of motivation as well. Positive motivation is this the BMW is my daily driver, so in the mean time I have been driving Plan “B” and Plan “C”, (Plan “B” is an ’85 Scooby-Doo GL wagon that was given to me for free, 200,295 miles on it now, engine starting ticking pretty loudly this week, plan “C” is my ’90 Chev full size Ext cab 2wd parts/shop/farm truck!) With Plan B looking like it needs a new engine, (engine swap of course, EJ22), the LS 7/8 powered M3 must move forward…

 

The only news currently is that I am wavering on an EMS. I currently have WOLF V-500, like the system, very powerful, was in my ’93 Nissan 300-ZX, will run the LSx as well, but Vi-PEC is also very VERY VERY intriguing. Sooo much so that I am considering ordering it. I might keep the V-500 for another project or sell it. What I do with the V-500 depends on my how my budget unfolds over the next few months, but I am seriously considering the Vi-PEC system.

 

Bang for the buck, both compare nicely to the uber-exotic offerings with 8 channel sequential ignition output, tons of user definable inputs and outputs, VVT control, GM idle air control, Staged injectors or blending of for those running exotic fuels such as Meth blends, race gas in separate tanks, etc. Tons of boost support for those of you addicted to boost with built turbo timer, etc. Vi-PEC supports drive by wire. wink.gif I ran V-500 on my ’93 300-ZX before I sold the car, I like the user interface, controllability, and mostly the consistency in how the engine ran vs the OE Nissan EFI! Ran smoother, crisper throttle response, seamless, no sacrifice in MPG! Support for the WOLF when you have questions is a bit awkward, Vi-PEC on the other hand has it’s own dedicated forum, dealer support and the owner will even help you directly!

 

I understand the GM PCM is very stable and seamless when properly tuned, I have no qualms in using it and encourage others to use it, especially if running N/A and stock or with mild mods. Plug and play and highly tunable. If you are planning to boost and are serious about boost and Engine management control of a boosted engine, the GM PCM will work, but you’d be better off going aftermarket stand alone! XD.gif

 

Screen shot I took of the WOLF V-500 when I had it on the ZX.

 

Spark map for the VG30DE

ignn-az32.jpg

Edited by BRAAP

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Small update, (pun intended...)

Haven’t done much of anything with the car this week. Skib and Zrac3r wanted to stop by for a while today so I wanted to clean the shop before they came out and my youngest of 3 daughters wanted to help daddy in the shop, so while I was cleaning up after a quick and dirty engine tear down from last week, I handed my 4 year old a Datsun Z car valve spring, intake valve, rocker arm anti rattle spring, air cleaner, hose clamp, and 2 wrenches, pointed to the creeper and she kept herself busy under the M3 for over an hour while I cleaned up the shop! She popped out once in while to drink her apple juice from her sippy cup and to let me know the project was coming along just fine! shy.giflove.gif

 

One of those daddy-daughter moments that you never want to forget! Hope she doesn’t either.

 

BellHlpr.jpg

Edited by BRAAP

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Not much of an update. Customer projects taking priority. Finished and shipped one of our custom L-6 cylinder heads, on its way to France, received another complete road race engine for a head freshen up with a new valve train, maybe a little valve unshrouding and 5 angle seat work that needs to ship back by the end of the year, and my fathers Turbo Charged SBC 350 short block I need to assemble in the next couple of weeks! witch.gif

 

As for the M3 LSx project, been doing some research and actual fitment of alternative brake options to free up more engine bay space, details of which I am not at liberty to give out at this time, suffice to say, results thus far are quite promising. cool.gif

 

This conversion will incorporate a few changes that will help improve space constraints within the engine bay as well as lower the cost of the typical LSx E36 conversions. spaccio.gif

 

Stay tuned, updates are still coming, but may take few more months for specifics to be released. wink.gif

 

Built another custom LSx specific tool as well;

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146686

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Teensy weensy update.

Drilled and tapped one hole in the 5.3L block for the F-body alternator mount.

 

After receiving this F-body alt mount from one of our HybridZ members, (Thank you benitoz) it became immediately clear the truck blocks were not manufactured for the car accy drives. 2 of the 4 F-body/Vette mounting bosses missing on the passenger side of the block. scratch.gif

 

A quick search revealed that most just drill and tap the one boss that GM graciously cast in the iron truck blocks and just delete the 4th bolt that GM completely ignored on the truck blocks.

 

After setting up mine, using a machinists transfer punch then drilling and tapping that boss for 10mm x 1.5 mm, that missing 4th bolt boss looks like it is good idea, but with three 10mm x 1.5mm bolts mounting the alternator already, Ron and I both agree that 4th bolt is probably more for the NVH requirements, making the entire engine and accy package as one mass vs 10-15 individual masses all ringing and vibrating at their own frequency. The Datsun Z car Alternator is mounted with far less attachment and works fine, as such I’m not going to lose any sleep over this. sleep.gif

 

newhole.jpg

 

bolts2.jpg

 

trnfrpnch.jpg

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Nothing to update on the build itself, yet, other than I wanted to share an LSx swappers gold mine with you all. Nook & Tranny has wonderful page set up with some great tech and specs info on the various LSx engines an accessories for those of us swapping the LSx into non GM vehicles. Specs page lists the differences in intake’s heads, throttle bodies, oil pans, water pumps, accy drives, balancers, etc. They sell LSx specific parts such as accy drives, water pumps etc. Ordered more than few parts from them, including water pump, lots of gaskets, hardware, etc, customer service is first rate. :wink:

 

Here is the LSx specs page;

http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.html

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Little update.

 

Did a little 4th century style massaging in the tunnel of 20th century German engineering. Turned out Ok, not pretty but ok. "Massaging" was performed in an area not seen and it will get painted for protection.

 

Midevil.jpg

 

 

Overall the LSx powertrain is a nice fit and as most have found out, if you are not modifying the oil pan, cross member, or cutting sections out of the firewall, with the F-body oil pan there really is only a very small window this power train package will fit within.

 

My latest mock up, I have established adequate clearances, trans output shaft is aimed directly at the diff input and is within .2 degrees, (2 tenths of a dregree) angularity up and down.

 

Here are some shot of the latest mock up;

 

TnlEntPs2.jpg

 

RevSw1.jpg

 

PnX.jpg

 

PnDrDn.jpg

 

TlUD.jpg

 

Shft.jpg

 

Diff.jpg

 

AnglTl.jpg

Edited by BRAAP

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Power Steering update.

Now have the high pressure side of the power steering finished. Took the F-bod PS hose and M3 PS hose down to my favorite fluid line guys, (Oil Filter Service in Portland OR), showed them what I needed and let them build it the way they felt it should be built, and wa-la. F-bod hard line coming out of the P/S pump, Aeroquip hose in between with Aeroquip fittings beautifully soldered onto the GM and BMW hard lines, and the BMW Banjo fitting for the rack attachment. This new custom hose fits perfectly as it coils nicely around the alternator without touching anything.

 

I do have an idea for another custom built high pressure and low pressure line, would end up nicer than this and probably not much more in cost. Gonna bounce the concept off my buddy, (a member whose name escapes me, rhymes with "fell from the dike"?!), we’ll see what he says…

 

For now, here are the pics;

 

LSx-M3PShose.jpg

 

PShoseinst1.jpg

 

PShoseinst.jpg

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Cat is out of the bag, I am at liberty to release a little more info on this conversion that Mike Knell of JTR and myself have been collaborating on. As the project progresses, more items, (some of what is seen in this build) will be available through JTR directly, here is the link;

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/BMW_Order.html

 

We found a smaller diameter brake booster allowing adequate valve cover to booster clearance that is one of the major issues with these conversions.

 

Here is one such Mercedes booster I mocked up with my M3 master cylinder and the JTR booster adapter;

 

Adpt2.jpg

 

Ftmnt.jpg

 

Fitmnt2.jpg

 

Clr2.jpg

Edited by BRAAP

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BREAK THROUGH on the clutch line!

 

 

Short version;

Due to the similar design of the master cylinder hydraulic line connection between GM and BMW, the OE GM LSx clutch line can be made to fit the BMW master cylinder with a small massage, no need to buy fittings, cut the GM clutch line, etc... Only thing needed to buy other than your slave cylinder is a remote bleeder line/kit like the one from TICKshift.com.

I did hammer the tunnel about 3/4" deep trough where the clutch line comes out of the bell-housing to relax the bend on the clutch line, fits nice in the tunnel.

 

Long version;

Yesterday in finishing up the clutch lines, I was going to go the typical route and cut the GM clutch line, install the -4 fitting, use the -4 to 10mmx1.0mm ISO bubble flare fitting, yadda yadda yadda, but with the GM clutch hose hooked up the trans I noticed its length is absolutely perfect in that it reaches the BMW master cylinder. I got to looking at the BMW master cylinder connection a little closer, removed the hard line retaining clip and wiggled the hard line out of the M/C and thought about what it might take to get the GM clutch line to plug into the BMW Master Cylinder. Spent some time measuring up both the GM and BMW master cylinder connection bores, then the GM and BMW clutch line fittings, sketched them out in AutoCAD and came to the conclusion it can be done. The BMW M/C bore is smooth at the O-ring diameter for what looks like all the way to the piston so the GM fitting could sit at any depth past the minimum. So I chucked the GM clutch line in the lathe and machined .020" off the diameter of the GM fitting as shown below and added a .040" tall chamfer to allow it to sit deep enough into the M/C to accept the BMW retaining clip and that's it, fits PERFECT! Using the GM O-ring, (BMW O-ring will not fit the GM fitting), it ends up compressing a total of .021” more than it does in the GM M/C, (tighter fit), not so much it causes any issues wit sealing, over squishing, etc. Surprising part is with a little brake fluid on the O-ring it doesn’t feel any tighter when installing it. Installed and removed several times to verify fitment. Best part is the GM clutch line is already the perfect length!

 

 

Here are the drawings and pics, enjoy…

 

 

BMW Master Cylinder connection detail;

BMWMCfittings.jpg

 

 

GM LSx Master Cylinder connection detail;

LSxClutchfittings.jpg

 

 

Hybrid LSx line-BMW Master Cylinder;

HybridClutchfittings.jpg

 

 

3D render of the Hybrid connection.

Hybrid3d.jpg

 

 

Retaining clip fits perfectly behind the crimped fitting;

Clipfits.jpg

 

 

Prior to installation;

Insertdepth.jpg

 

 

INSTALLED! Retaining clip holds it firmly, wont go in any deeper or come out and it is already the PERFECT length! SAH-WEEET…

Installed.jpg

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With the engine and trans just sitting in the car, using a remote reservoir, filled the clutch line, bled the clutch and wa-la, got clutch action and NO leaks! Clutch pedal “feels” pretty good, though wont for sure until the engine is running. Pedal pressure starts right off the top, has a slight ramp up in pressure till approx 2/3 pedal down then has a very distinct over-center feel as the pedal effort gets considerably lighter closer to the floor. Overall pedal effort feels about the same as I recall the stock M-3 clutch effort and next to Rons ’98 M-3, is the same but with a more pronounced over-center feel.

 

Spent a bit of the day upgrading my DIY brake pressure bleeder and setting up a BMW M/C reservoir cap for it. Hoping to have the ABS relocated and with new lines brakes done by the end of next week, or sooner. :wink:

 

 

 

Pic from engine bay;

DSC_5199.jpg

 

 

 

Pic from under the car;

DSC_5200.jpg

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