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'82 280zx na egr problems.


akumazedex

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I have a problem with my egr, I've looked through the forums but can't find anything close.. So here's the senerio, at low rpm (~800-2k) just above idle, I get a consistant mis, unplug the egr valve and it clears up. I have since replaced the egr valve, the ported vacuume switch that goes to the egr, all the vacuume lines. Now I'm stumped. The maf is new, new plugs and wires, cap rotor the O2 is new. Good compression across all cylinders (motor rebuilt). I have no clue anymore, I traced all the lines and they all go to their apropriate ports. This mis is causing me to fail smog miserably, any help or ideas would be much apreciated.

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Check your plugs, even new they could foul quickly. See if the miss is on all cylinders or just one or two. Are you absolutely certain that the egr vac line is going to the correct place? It's kinda hard to tell if you've had everything unhooked and then put back. Check your timing. Note you need to unhook the timing advance plug (on the side of the black module) as well as unhooking (and plugging) vac advance. Be aware that with old EFI systems, component specs drift and an AFM adjustment may be needed to bring the car back to spec. A wideband is exceptionally helpfull here.

 

Also check your coil to see if it's good. You should have a nice hot spark, good and blue. If it's red or orange a new one might be in order. Even better if you can borrow a known good one to test.

 

-Eric

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Get the FSM from www.xenons130.com in the reference section and read it.

 

 

That's what I was referring to (I have the print version for my 1980 ZX as well).

 

Under "Emissions Control" section, page EC-2, there's a chart and all the EGR mentions do not have a checkmark for CA models.

 

On EC-3, there is a diagram for the CALIFORNIAN, CANADIAN, and USA (non-CALIFORNIAN), and the CALIFORNIAN one does not have an EGR in the diagram.

 

These are the things that make me think my car doesn't have an EGR (sold in CA - I got it from the original owner 2 years ago).

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Have you looked under the hood? You will either have it or not. The emissions sticker on the underside of the hood (if still there, and it's the original hood) will say if you're supposed to. If you have had the car smogged, than I'll presume the car is in the state it should be.

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I don't think that the '80 Cali cars have them, my buddys 10th anniversary diddnt, that was a Cali car too.

 

So last night it dawned on me.. The two vacuume lines that run from the ported vacuume switch and T underneath just in front of the throttle body. I got the car with the motor allready rebuilt.. So I figured, maybe they crossed some vacuume lines.. So I switched them and voilà! No mis at the low end, took it for a spin and it ran just like new. Kind of a stupid mistake, should have thought of that sooner, my 210 has a million of them and screw one up and it'll run like crap. So, problem seems to be solved. Thanks for the advice "eec564", I'll double check everything just to make sure.

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Great news! Glad it all worked out. Sometimes those "bonehead" moments are the best, after all the work you put into an issue (Iat least you know it's not something worse now...and think of how much you learned along the way!) ;)

 

I've had my share of these - and many more to come I'm sure.

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Yeah I think I rewired, fiddle and messed with everythign on my car before I figured out it was a Intermittant fault with my MAF sensor on my 280zxt. (ECU swapped to 300zxt and MAF)..

 

So dont feel to dumb! haha although I have no more smog stuff LOL

 

Go Alberta Pollution! I do try to run 94 Octane only though and Syth oil to keep down those carbons!

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Higher octane fuel won't help reduce carbons. It actually burns slower than lower octane fuel. Unless your compression or boost requires the octane, it's completely useless to run it. Hurts your pocket book too.

 

Those vac lines under the throttle body are SUPER easy to mess up. I know I sat around with a vac gauge figuring out which ones were ported, straight, etc last time I had my manifold off. The FSM is ambiguous at best when it comes to the specific location of temp senders/sensors and which vac line goes where.

 

-Eric

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Yeah, gotta love them haha. Sometime next week I shall make an attempt at passing Cali emissions after throwing a fresh cat on it, RUZN you're lucky!! I can't stand the smog laws around here.. Eehh if you can't beat them join them!! Atleast my 210 is putting up a good fight, one cold morning at a time! Anyways, hope all goes well, any tips on helping the 280 pass smog?

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If you have free-retests waiting for you at a smog place, just go test it. Don't spend money on a cat unless you really know you need it to pass. A good running Z will pass without a cat, just make sure it's fully warmed up, and everything is working correctly.

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Mine passed with the original cat, which can't be doing a whole lot of good any more. It mainly depends on the condition of the engine and fuel injection system. Best thing I ever did for it was take it out on the open road and give it a real good work out.

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Any car I've known will pass smog if you have a good/complete burn.

 

A cat helps for full throttle applications and small problems in burn.

 

I also have found that any car without a cat will get better gas mileage, if running correctly. So rest assured you are doing better for the environment if you have a good running car AND no cat. ;)

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