Jump to content
HybridZ
johnc

S30 Roll Cage Examples

Recommended Posts

I'm starting this thread as a collection place for links and pics of roll cages installed in S30s. For those that intend to build their own cage or hire a cage builder I hope this will be a valuable reference. I'm going to lightly police this thread to keep out truly dangerous ideas but there are many different ways to solve this problem so it should be fairly open.

 

FYI... this thread is a "how to" thread by example. Please start a different thread if you have questions about your own cage or bar build.

Edited by johnc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of my notes on the main hoop:

 

Main Hoop

 

Main hoop requires a 12’ length of tube with the centerline marked.

 

The 5.5” CLR die actually starts the bend 1 1/8” from the front edge of the die. Take this into account when looking at the bend measurements below.

 

The two top bends start at 15 1/4” from the centerline.

 

The two top bends are 65 degrees and will use 8” of the tubing to complete the bend.

 

The two side bends are about 25 degrees (actually a bit less) and they start 8 1/2" from the end of the top bends.

 

The legs of the main hoop are 20 1/2” from the end of the side bends.

 

The width of the main hoop at the bottom of the side bends is 47 1/4" ID and at the bottom of the legs is 48 1/4".

 

The main hoop is mounted leaning back at a 10 degree angle touching the root and the front of the wheel wells.

 

The above dimensions are specific to mounting the main hoop on a box built to tie in the floor pan, rocker panel, and rear wheelwell like below:

 

240ZRollBar3.jpg

 

240ZRollBar4.jpg

Edited by johnc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Motorsci cage build with some input from a Dutch FIA cage builder (z-spec):

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143172

 

The photos I have in detail are of Z-Specs Cages from a visit to his shop September 29, 2009 (and some earlier shots if I can find them).

 

I will supplant this post with the photos once I get them loaded, and reference the source.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, here is a link to my intro page, that does show my cage fairly clearly!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=156550

 

Its an FIA Cams approved cage, for Category 4 (classic) 3c (modified) tarmac rally!

Its main hoop is OD 44.45mm, the rest of the bars are OD 38.1mm & all 2.6mm thick! Its CDW tube type & fully welded! The front bars are tied to the A-pillars! Theres also a bar behind the dash! 15 bars total!

 

This is the guy that built my cage!

http://www.walkerchassis.com.au/index.html

 

 

note:

Im 6'1" and with my race seat as far back as i can put it, i still dont have quite enough room from the steering wheel, just enough leg room though. So i am going to have to shorten the steering column by atleast an inch. (already shortened the steering boss kit to fit the slim quick release so i can get in and out easily) *Just something you might want to consider before you build your cage!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ZNeder.. did you "spot" weld all those welds to give it a stacked, TIG weld appearance?!

 

BTW - cool Suzuki GSXR throttle body manifold ya have on the workbench. Any pics?!

I had a fabrication/engineering shop do mine. I believe it is a mig weld on CDW 38.1mm x 2.6mm tube as this is the local requirement min.

 

Re the Suzuki manifold - it is in fact a RB26 intake manifold :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey guys...the nhra style..ie.. Jegs etc. have a main hoop and also a roof hoop. The down bars meeting this roof hoop at the windshield post...Do the forward down tubes need to start at the main hoop?

 

The halo needs two bars connecting the front of the halo at the top of the windshield pillars to fallow the pillar down and connected to the floor/frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just in general seems like people really want to bend tubes where they don't need to be bent. A lot of the bends in these rear supports and door bars are just not necessary. A straight tube is stiffer than a bent one. Keep it straight whenever possible (except for door bars which should protrude into the door cavity for max protection).

 

Where multiple tubes have to hit in the same area it's best to connect them. So to have that X and then connect the backstays to the top of the hoop doesn't make a lot of sense. Much better to either move the X so it hits the backstays, or since you already have problems with the backstays, move them to hit the top of the X if that X is legal. Not sure on that one... Connecting multiple tubes to a "node" makes the cage stronger and more rigid and allows loads to path directly from one bar to another instead of having to travel down the connection between two separate tubes that aren't connected at a node.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×