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S30 Roll Cage Examples

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ITs not an s30 but it is the same cage copied from an s30 (allot of tubes are the same, apart from teh front legs, the front wiendshield rake is teh same as a 911 ;)




I dont know if these pass tech for SCCA or NASA But i guess John can pitch in on that.

Apart from that i have seen a topic like this before with some really good examples ill lik those below.

Note that before you build your cage that for some classes they update the rules frequently. So you best off to buy the rule book or call a competent builder.

And if you really insist of welding yourself, get it checked out before putting it on the track!

For rule changes see this for example http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/91482-scca-cage-rule-update/page__p__866576__hl__roll%20cage__fromsearch__1entry866576

I know builders in Europe have to proof the pentration of the material etc etc to get a cage pass. A bad weld will more likely harm you than safe you.




Now imagine a weld coming loos and a sharp piece of tube swinging at the driver!!!


If it is mainly a street car more than a hoop or a NHRA 6 point would not be advized as id will harm you more than do you good without a helmet (ever had a baseball bet swung at you by major leage player ?) the area it concentrates on is much smaller than it would be without a cage..


anyhow on the fun stuff:





Edited by frank280zx

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I went through this thread and cleaned out posts that were not pertinent to the original intent of this thread. Again, this is a reference thread for good cage design to help people with their own design decisions.

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Frank, I don't believe the cage would pass tech in SCCA and possibly NASA. The diagonals within the main hoop don't meet criteria. I'm not saying that I believe its inferior it doesn't meet the rules.

From the SCCA GCR:

Main hoops shall incorporate a diagonal brace. The brace shall either be in the plane of the main hoop, or extend from the top of one rear brace (described in 9.4.B.2.c) to the bottom of the opposite rear brace. Automobiles with mid mounted engines can have the lower mounting point attach to the frame of the automobile within six inches of the main hoop. In the case of braces in the plane of the main hoop, the brace must span at least 50% of the width of the main hoop, and at least 75% of the height of the main hoop.

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I did some mods to my 20 year old roll cage yesterday (Happy Canada Day!!!) and thought I would share them. I basically cut off everything back of the main hoop and replaced it.




We removed the curved rear stays that went to the plate you can see on the floor, put some 3/16" plate on and around the strut towers, new rear stays, cross brace, and increased the size of the strut tower bar to match the rest of the cage. I am not a fan of the angle the belts need to go to get to the strut tower, I may think of adding a harness bar later (had to cut out the old one that was on the old rear stays).


One thing that I am actually struggling with is fastening the window net. The way it was fastened before was a little hokey. It was attached at the top, and at the bottom, old seatbelt was sewn to the net, and clipped to the other half of the seatbelt slung around the cage. There really was nothing wrong with that per se, but I didn't like having to flip the net and this seatbelt clip onto the roof to get out. The roll cage is really close to the bodywork there and every time I come up with a plan, it puts the top of the net right in my eye line and too low for comfort. A different form of clip or buckle might even do wonders. I have old harnesses around, see if those might have something that will work. If anyone is still reading this, it would be nice to see detailed pics of how yours clips in and out.


Another pic because I thought the lighting was cool.



Edited by wondersparrow

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