Jump to content


Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

Vacaville Velo Rossa


  • Please log in to reply
210 replies to this topic

#1 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 30 November 2009 - 09:12 PM

Let me start by saying I'm not a car guy by trade or a Ferrari devotee by any means. I was just looking for cool project car to putter around with. I had wanted a Cobra ever since seeing the movie 'Gumball Rally' when I was 18. But the needs of my young family, and the cost of a kit thwarted me until a couple years ago.
I settled on the Velo Rossa kit from John Washington at Reaction Research because of the low initial cost. I have found John to be nothing but helpful since the day I first inquired about this project. I purchased the install manual three years ago, but didn't purchase my kit until April 2008.
I purchased a non-running 260z donor for $350, and spent a year getting it ready for the kit. I sold off all the parts I don't need. I actually made a profit of $25.
If I hadn't had to replace the rusted floorpans ($270) I would have started way ahead.
I picked up my body kit from John at the Knotts Berry Farm Kit Car show last year. No crating cost, no delivery fee, just gas for my pickup truck, from Northern Cal and back. $4500 total.
I've spent the last year fitting panels, cutting and sanding... fixing my mistakes... and then redoing it the correct way. My plan is to do the basic bodywork myself and get the car into primer. Then install all the exterior lights. Then I'll move on to drive train (SB Chevy using JTR conversion), suspension and interior. Once it's a driver, I'll strip it down and send it out for paint.
To date I have around $5700 invested in the project. I'm estimating at least another $5000 before wheels and paint, but that will be spread out over the next couple years at my current rate, so it won't hurt too much.

Here are a couple pics of the donor 260Z.

Attached Files


You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#2 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 30 November 2009 - 09:36 PM

My VR body kit came as nine separate fiberglass pieces:
1 Rear Tub
1 Tilt Front End
2 Front Quarter Panels
2 Door skins
1 Trunk Lid
1 Windshield Cap
1 Le Mans gas Cap pocket

I decided to start with the rear tub. I attached the tub with a combination of short strand fiberglass adhesive and expanding foam. The fiberglass is used to attach the tub to the door jams. The expanding foam fills the gap between the old Z sheet metal and the new fiberglass body making it impossible for the tub to shift.

Attached Files


Edited by Fauxre, 02 December 2009 - 09:29 PM.
Add title

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#3 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 30 November 2009 - 10:13 PM

I then test fit the door skins and front quarters. The door skins are attached with adhesive and the quarters bolt on using the same holes as the original Z fenders. I could then bolt on the tilt bonnet and check for fit. At this point I should have rough trimmed the bonnet to the curved door gap. If I had I would have noticed the door skin needed to be right where it was in order to match up with the bonnet. Instead I thought that the door skin was warped, pulling away from the sheet metal of the original door. So, when I attached the skin, I pulled it up tight using sheet metal screws to hold it down while the adhesive dried.

When I remounted the quarter panels all seemed well. But when I lowered the bonnet I discovered my mistake. Many hours of glassing, sanding and cursing my stupidity later, every thing lined up.

Attached Files


Edited by Fauxre, 01 December 2009 - 09:12 PM.
Add pics

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#4 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 01 December 2009 - 10:25 PM

After fixing the door skin error, I turned my attention to the tilt bonnet. The bonnet must be trimmed to fit under the windshield. Once again I trimmed too much and had to recreate the proper curve with a little fiberglass work.

I then cut the headlight holes and hood vents using a spiral saw. It makes quick and accurate cuts. I could then mount the original headlight buckets (cleaned and painted) from the Z.
A couple chrome trim rings from a MGB finish off the lights nicely. The rings just rest on the lamps right now. If anyone knows how to make some clips to keep them in place, let me know.

Attached Files

  • Attached File  5.JPG   53.33KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  6.JPG   54.15KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  7.JPG   32.22KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  8.JPG   50.33KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  9.JPG   38.68KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  95.jpg   32.33KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  4.JPG   40.8KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  3.JPG   62.76KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  1.JPG   48.1KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  2.JPG   35.61KB   0 downloads

Edited by Fauxre, 11 October 2013 - 12:18 PM.

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#5 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 01 December 2009 - 11:01 PM

The upper portion of my quarter panels (near the windshield) didn't fit to my liking. They were too long, causing the entire piece to ride up off the sheet metal where it was supposed to bolt down. That piece also flared away from the body, keeping the rubber door seal from laying down flat.
I also didn't like the triangular gap that the front edge of the door swings through when opened. It seemed awkward and exposed too much of the hinges below for my taste.

After trimming the ends and sides of the upper section of the quarter panels, I laid down fiberglass matting to make a form fitting bottom and attached the panel with more resin, filling in the gaps with the short strand fiberglass filler.
With more matting I created a web in the triangular door gap.

After sanding and shaping, the piece now fits snug to the body and has a more eye pleasing curved door gap.

Attached Files


Edited by Fauxre, 11 October 2013 - 01:03 PM.

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#6 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 02 December 2009 - 07:00 PM

I was feeling so good about the results on my quarter panels, that I started to refine the gaps and blend the new fiberglass panels into the existing body. Starting at the front, I sanded the seams left by the molds, filled low areas with light weight body filler and cleaned up the edges of the panels.
I worked my way around the car, feathering the bottom edge of the rear tub to the rocker panel and refining the shape of the tub to match the outer edge of the new door skins. I spread many thin layers of filler and spent many hours sanding.

Attached Files


Edited by Fauxre, 11 October 2013 - 05:25 PM.
Add pic

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#7 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 02 December 2009 - 08:30 PM

It was now time to take on my most ambitious modification yet... cutting and sculpting the rear wheel well vents.

Many builders skip this mod, preferring to simply paint this area black to look like a vent opening. I think it's the most unique feature of this body style and never considered any option except functional vents. What that function is, is ambiguous to me. I guess it was to cool the rear brakes by allowing more air flow. Whatever the case they look COOL!!!

After cutting the initial hole, I fabricated a cardboard template to form the extended inner wall. Using the template I cut a sheet metal version and attached it to the back of the fiberglass with resin and matting. I lined the inside with fiberglass cloth and built up thickness with more matting. To get level with the existing fiberglass, I spread a layer of the short strand fill, and sanded. A little light weight filler and more sanding.

I fashioned a fender well extension from sheet metal to finish the look.

The series of pics below chronicles this process.

Attached Files

  • Attached File  6.JPG   46.21KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  1.jpg   30.57KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  2.jpg   27.62KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  9.JPG   29.61KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  7.JPG   37.79KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  8.JPG   34.44KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  15.jpg   55.36KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  11.JPG   32.54KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  10.JPG   30.69KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  16.jpg   43.4KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  5.JPG   36.41KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  3.jpg   29.75KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  4.JPG   48.6KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  12.jpg   41.91KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  13.jpg   44.97KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  14.jpg   53.57KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  17.jpg   33KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  18.jpg   37.67KB   0 downloads

Edited by Fauxre, 11 October 2013 - 06:30 PM.

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#8 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 02 December 2009 - 09:20 PM

Well that pretty much brings things up to date.

I intend to start working on the mechanical systems next.

However, before moving on, I needed a little assurance that my bodywork, rough as it is, was at least "not horrible". With the body sporting so many different colors, my eye couldn't focus on shape. So I applied two coats of grey primer surfacer to the entire car. The result? Pleasing. Not perfect, but good enough to allow me to feel good about moving on. Ill leave the final prep and paint to the pros.

I've re-installed the lights up front, the door latches and handles, and the windshield.

The last three pics in this series are photoshopped concepts of this project... before final paint.

Any and all comments are welcome... :burnout:

Attached Files

  • Attached File  1.jpg   62.71KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  2.jpg   67.96KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  3.jpg   36.27KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  4.jpg   32.5KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  5.JPG   35.57KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  6.JPG   72.5KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  7.JPG   29.54KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  8.jpg   55.33KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  9.jpg   80.15KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  10.jpg   84.91KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  11-30-09 concept.jpg   44.15KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  11.jpg   33.37KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  12.jpg   36.42KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  13.jpg   27.32KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  14.jpg   76.53KB   0 downloads
  • Attached File  rear concept.jpg   50.26KB   0 downloads

Edited by Fauxre, 04 December 2009 - 09:05 PM.
add pic

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#9 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 05 August 2010 - 08:04 PM

Forging ahead, I've managed to blast and paint the suspension all around the Velo Rossa. The front strut housings have been sectioned and now contain new ZX struts. New ball joints, tie rod ends and rotors up front.

Attached Files


You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#10 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 05 August 2010 - 08:12 PM

Virtually all the rear suspension remains original. A lot of elbow grease and a little paint can make a huge difference.

Attached Files


You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#11 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 05 August 2010 - 08:16 PM

Managed to save the original brake master cylinder and all but one brake line.

Attached Files


You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#12 GOTHALOSISM

GOTHALOSISM

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1046 posts
  • LocationLas Vegas NV

Posted 05 August 2010 - 08:35 PM

Wow I wish I had your determination and skill.
1979 280ZX "SKITTLE" (lime green, stock color) SOLD
1976 280Z "Skittle 2.0" LT1, T5, Turbo rims, and more junk.
Posted Image

#13 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 05 August 2010 - 08:37 PM

This fuel door from a Mitsubishi Eclipse might be a nice alternative to a LeMans style gas cap. Not sure if I like it enough yet... will see.

Next up... flywheel and clutch components for the SBC 350. Looks cool with the ceramic coated Sanderson shorty headers!!

Then with the WC T5 attached I'll slide the whole thing into prepped engine bay.

Attached Files


You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#14 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 07 August 2010 - 06:24 PM

Wow I wish I had your determination and skill.

Thanks!

Skill? Not sure the trial and error method can be called skill. Much of what I've done on this build is completely new to me. I've been learning everything as I go, like welding in floor pans (hoping I don't end up with a Flinstonemobile) and fiberglassing (hoping big chunks don't fall off when I hit a pothole).
I am determined to finish, though... some day.

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#15 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 23 August 2010 - 07:31 PM

While I waited for my engine / tranny installation parts, I decided to attempt to save my old cracked dash.


Attached File  closeup.JPG   273.4KB   7 downloadsAttached File  dashback.JPG   123.07KB   15 downloads


I followed the method used here http://www.classiczc...ght=dash+repair with mixed results.


Attached File  dash comp.JPG   283.14KB   19 downloads



The final result was not very good. The plastic is so old and brittle that it cracks under the slightest pressure and the final texture and paint just wasn't going to be visually pleasing. I decided to cover the entire dash with fiberglass in order to get a good hard surface to work with. The glove box door was warped and looked bad, so I decided to eliminate it all together. Not sure if I'll have it painted to match the cars exterior, try to cover it with material or try some other finish technique.


Attached File  dashglass2.JPG   83.59KB   17 downloadsAttached File  dash glass1.JPG   91.26KB   18 downloadsAttached File  dasglass3.JPG   70.53KB   18 downloads


One thing's for sure... there's a lot of sanding in my future.

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#16 garyneedsz

garyneedsz

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 94 posts
  • LocationFullerton, CA

Posted 24 August 2010 - 04:13 PM

what brand it the expanding foam? where can i get some? cost?

btw impressive work for doing everything for the first time

#17 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 25 August 2010 - 06:42 PM

what brand it the expanding foam? where can i get some? cost?

btw impressive work for doing everything for the first time


"Great Stuff" is what I used. It's about $7 a can at Ace Hardware. Attached File  pACE2-1160144reg.jpg   7.72KB   1 downloads

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#18 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 26 August 2010 - 02:43 PM

CHRISTMAS IN AUGUST!!!!




Attached File  clutchparts.JPG   205.12KB   13 downloads

My flywheel, clutch kit and engine / tranny instal kit are here!
Can't wait to get that All American iron in my Italian inspired machine.

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#19 Fauxre

Fauxre

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 259 posts
  • LocationNORCAL

Posted 11 September 2010 - 08:09 PM

Big day tomorrow!! My son will be helping my install the SBC 350 into the VR.



Attached File  sbc1.JPG   291.57KB   18 downloads



Don't have all the items on the block that JTR recommends before installing, but should be able to add them later with minimal effort. Can't wait to see how the suspension sits with some weight in the engine bay.


Attached File  sbc2.JPG   237.14KB   25 downloads

You don't have to be crazy to do this... but it helps? Posted ImageVelo Rossa Build


#20 mannac

mannac

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • LocationGreen Bay/Milwaukee

Posted 12 September 2010 - 08:43 AM

I'm loving your attention to detail in this build. Keep up the good work!
1972 Datsun 240Z - in pieces
2002 Subaru WRX swapped TS




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users