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ktm

My Speedhut gauge install

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Sooooooo, after seeing a few folks with Speedhut gauges and realizing that I really needed to upgrade my stock gauges, I opted to purchase a set of Speedhut gauges. I purchased a total of 8 gauges: Revoluation 4-in. 160 mph speedometer with integrated turn signals and high beam indicator, Revolution 4-in. 8000 rpm tachometer with integrated shift lights, Revolution 2-1/16 AFR gauge, Revolution 2-1/16 Boost/Vac gauge, Revolution 2-1/16 Oil Pressure gauge, Speedhut 2-1/16 water temp gauge, Speedhut 2-1/16 fuel level gauge, and Speedhut 2-1/16 volt gauge.

 

I opted for 2-1/16 for a consistent look and I wanted to mount them in the stock gauge pods. I created a custom replacement panel where the heater controls are located for the water temp, volt and fuel level gauges. The AFR, boost and oil pressure gauges went in the original gauge locations.

 

The Speedhut gauge package is incredibly nice. They come with all the sensors you need, harness with plugs, and a daisy chain setup for the gauge volt, ground, and light supplies. I was thoroughly impressed with their setup and believe that they are well worth the money.

 

The oil pressure gauge is 1/8-npt. All you need is a 1/8 bspt male to 1/8 npt female adapter. Autometer has this adapter and it is readily available through Summit Racing.

 

The Speedhut water temp gauge is similar to the stock gauge and operates based on a single wire resistance arrangement. You must use their sensor, however, as the gauge is setup for that sensor. You need to purchase a 16 MM metric to 1/8 npt female adapter. Again, Autometer carries these and they are readily available through Summit Racing.

 

The AFR gauge is setup to use either an Innovate LC-1 or Dynojet wideband. It comes from the factory setup for the LC-1. However, you can input your own voltage relationships and the instructions tell you how.

 

Now for the pictures:

 

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speedhut3.JPG

 

speedhut4.JPG

 

speedhut5.JPG

 

speedhut6.JPG

 

speedhut7.JPG

 

speedhut8.JPG

 

speedhut9.JPG

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The Revolution series are around $120 to $170 per gauge; the speedometer is approximately $220 and the tachometer around $200 if I remember correctly. The Speedhut series is approximately $80 per gauge but is limited to volt, temp, and fuel.

 

Autometer mechanicals run $50 to $60 per gauge and their electrical gauges are generally the same price as Speedhuts. However, Speedhut's gauges (all their gauges) use high speed stepper motors and the Revolution series have programmable warning lights. Autometer's gauges with the warning lights run $200 and their high speed stepper motor gauges are over $200 each as well.

 

The Speedhut gauges are fully customizable, from font color, font type, dial color, pointer color, etc.

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I would rank their install as a 3, at least for me. I've done quite a bit of wiring in my car (installed the EMS myself, etc.) and this was incredibly easy. Nearly everything is pre-wired, you just need to find taps for ignition hot, ground and dash lights. I used the existing wires for the coolant temp and fuel senders, the rest of the gauges came with their own sensors and harnesses.

 

It is just time consuming if you want to do it right.

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Looks great Bo.

 

How responsive is the AFR gauge? I'm an advocate of analog AFR and have been mostly happy with the Innovate G5. It's responsive enough to show misfires, but just barely. I'd like to see a bit more zip.

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Thanks for the compliments all.

 

Ron, I have not had a chance to test it out yet. I had to replace the battery Monday and I finished up wiring on Sunday. It is forecast for rain for the next few days so it may be early next week before I can test it out. I'll drop you a PM when I do and let you know. I had a G3 and liked it very much, but it started to fail on me. It would read correctly for the first 5 minutes, then it would either read too lean or too rich across the board. However, the LC-1 was reading correct per my LMA3 and per Wolf's wideband display.

 

The Z horn button is from MSA and is setup for the Grant steering wheels. The steering wheel is a Grant Evolution GT wheel the best I can tell. I picked it up new at a Dime swap meet near Pomona about 4 years ago for $50.

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I have been looking to do this conversion for some time, almost a year. Thankfully I waited and they released the speedo with the integrated turn signal/highbeam indicators. Just need to fit it into the budget now... Thanks for providing the info on the thread sizes for the adapters.

 

Now for my requests.. :)

 

I've been going back and forth on color choices, more or less settling on cobalt blue reverse glow. Are yours cobalt or regular blue? I'm also curious about the analog AFR gauge as I had considered it for consistency. Also curious how the calibration process for the speedometer goes for you. The fuel gauge also seems simple enough, but I wonder if its worth trying to put their [speedhut's] sensor into our gas tanks. Working on helicopters with a similar system, I prefer it to the stock float based system that the Z has.

 

Thanks for the writeup, and for any info you bring to light in the future!

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Those look great!! Some of these http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/2234/10002/-1 would add some form and function to the three you installed where the heater controls were.

 

Thank you for the compliment. If you look at how I mounted the three where the heater controls used to be, I have them rotated so that I can see the relevant information. I struggled with the decision to use the angle rings but decided not to as I did not like the look. The voltage gauge was rotated 90 degrees so that 14 volts was straight down. The water temp and fuel gauges were rotated 180 degrees; this put 180 degrees on the water temp gauge straight down.

 

You can clearly and easily see everything from the driver's position. The fourth picture gives you an idea of the view.

 

I have been looking to do this conversion for some time, almost a year. Thankfully I waited and they released the speedo with the integrated turn signal/highbeam indicators. Just need to fit it into the budget now... Thanks for providing the info on the thread sizes for the adapters.

 

Thanks! What I did not write about was how I had to modify the high beam signal for a 240z. The 240z switches grounds when operating the lights and high beams and the speedo gauge high beam indicator wants a +12 v signal. I simply wired up a relay that used the 240z high beam wire as the ground for the relay and the dash light wires as both the relay switch and power wires.

 

I've been going back and forth on color choices, more or less settling on cobalt blue reverse glow. Are yours cobalt or regular blue?

 

They are the regular blue. I was worried that the Cobalt blue would be too dark.

 

I'm also curious about the analog AFR gauge as I had considered it for consistency.

 

What is your concern? I use my Innovate LC-1 and LMA-3 aux box for tuning. The gauge just helps me spot issues when driving. It is very responsive and reacts quickly to transient changes.

 

Also curious how the calibration process for the speedometer goes for you. The fuel gauge also seems simple enough, but I wonder if its worth trying to put their [speedhut's] sensor into our gas tanks. Working on helicopters with a similar system, I prefer it to the stock float based system that the Z has.

 

I have yet to calibrate the speedo. I just paced the 2 measured miles they require to calibrate the speedo. I plan on calibrating it this weekend. It seems easy enough.

 

As for the fuel sender, that is an oddity. I am going to call them tomorrow and inquire if the gauge is setup for the typical ranges and you simply cycle between the them. I set my high level already and need to drive a bit to empty the tank before setting my low level.

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Update:

 

I finally calibrated the speedometer today. It is very easy and quite accurate. Simply follow the provided instructions. I scoped out the requisite 2 miles a few days before calibrating the speedometer. The roads around here do not have mile markers so I was using landmarks. Once I got my two landmarks set, I waited until today to calibrate it (on my way to Irvine's Cars and Coffee).

 

You do not have to maintain a constant speed, simply follow the instructions and get the speedometer into calibration mode. Once calibrated, I tested its accuracy with a GPS system. I know the GPS to be accurate (enough) as I tested it out in my daily driver and it was spot on.

 

After calibrating the speedo and comparing it to the GPS, I was approximately 0.5 to 1 mph off.

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My Z32 tranny already had a VSS sender. I simply reused that one once I got the speedo. Prox and I sourced a mechanical sender for the Z32 tranny to use with the stock speedo. I saved the VSS sender for the day that I went with an electronic speedo.

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I did not have to remove the dash for installation. I used the mounting cups for the 2-1/16 gauges which allowed me to then bolt them in like stock gauges. The speedo and tach are 4-in. diameter and I friction fit them into the stock trim piece that bolts onto the gauge cup.

Edited by ktm

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