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Top time attack aero is worth looking at, some incredible stuff around. Basically for a splitter the bigger the better with the proviso that it should be practical and make sense in relation to the car and the law of diminishing returns as far as size goes.

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I need to get my splitter project going ASAP..

Now that the car is behaving consistently...

 

I think an angular shape is easier to cut..

Basically like a T-shirt shape...    Straight line across the front below the inlet area, angled back on each side, tapering back to the cross member area.

Rear pins for easy installation with clips of suitable strength up front.

 

Hmmm.. kitchen remodel / splitter fabrication...

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I had cut the splitter out of 1/4 plywood and then put one layer of FG on it and it was still pretty flexy, so I put it aside and started focusing on the FG front end. Now that the front FG is almost finished, and I gotta say, for being the first thing I ever made from FG, I'm feeling pretty good about it. Went to bolt my splitter on, realized that it was cut uneven so it was where I wanted on one side and not long enough of the other. At this point I just want the thing driving, so I bought a 1/2" piece of birch instead of the thinner wood + FG idea. Read online that birch wood is the stuff to use, and the wisdom of crowds came through again. Very stiff. 

 

Bolted it up and although I designed the splitter to move up and down about 2" so I could set the height off of the ground, I'm finding that I'm hittting the swaybar with the rear of the splitter. Could get it up another .75" or so, will have to redo the swaybar mounts. The swaybar is mounted on heims, so I can change the brackets, maybe even just redrill the holes. The splitter also pivots so that if I hit something it hopefully won't get destroyed. To allow for this I was going to use cables in the front, but then thought carabiners and a turnbuckle would be good so that I could adjust the height with the threaded clevises in back and then just lengthen or shorten the turnbuckles, but the issue I'm having with that is that the carabiner and turnbuckle setup is too long at its shortest setting, so might have to go back to fixed length cables. There will be a skirt to close off the gap between the splitter and the bottom of the air dam, slotted so that I can move the splitter up and down.

End goal is to have the xmember at about 2 or 2.5" off the ground. The skid plate I put under the rack hangs down another 1". Would actually like to run the xmember at more like 1.5 or 1.75, but can't do it due to the skid plate. When I get to aligning and bumpsteering, I might try to move the rack up so that I can remove the skid plate altogether (xmember is slotted too so I could move the control arm up and not screw up bumpsteer), but this aftermarket rack hangs down below the xmember and I didn't want to smack it on a curb and disconnect it from the car...

post-553-0-99987400-1434140538_thumb.jpg

post-553-0-87347600-1434140539_thumb.jpg

post-553-0-62227700-1434140540_thumb.jpg

Edited by JMortensen

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I had cut the splitter out of 1/4 plywood and then put one layer of FG on it and it was still pretty flexy, so I put it aside and started focusing on the FG front end. Now that the front FG is almost finished, and I gotta say, for being the first thing I ever made from FG, I'm feeling pretty good about it. Went to bolt my splitter on, realized that it was cut uneven so it was where I wanted on one side and not long enough of the other. At this point I just want the thing driving, so I bought a 1/2" piece of birch instead of the thinner wood + FG idea. Read online that birch wood is the stuff to use, and the wisdom of crowds came through again. Very stiff. 

 

Bolted it up and although I designed the splitter to move up and down about 2" so I could set the height off of the ground, I'm finding that I'm hittting the swaybar with the rear of the splitter. Could get it up another .75" or so, will have to redo the swaybar mounts. The swaybar is mounted on heims, so I can change the brackets, maybe even just redrill the holes. The splitter also pivots so that if I hit something it hopefully won't get destroyed. To allow for this I was going to use cables in the front, but then thought carabiners and a turnbuckle would be good so that I could adjust the height with the threaded clevises in back and then just lengthen or shorten the turnbuckles, but the issue I'm having with that is that the carabiner and turnbuckle setup is too long at its shortest setting, so might have to go back to fixed length cables. There will be a skirt to close off the gap between the splitter and the bottom of the air dam, slotted so that I can move the splitter up and down.

 

End goal is to have the xmember at about 2 or 2.5" off the ground. The skid plate I put under the rack hangs down another 1". Would actually like to run the xmember at more like 1.5 or 1.75, but can't do it due to the skid plate. When I get to aligning and bumpsteering, I might try to move the rack up so that I can remove the skid plate altogether (xmember is slotted too so I could move the control arm up and not screw up bumpsteer), but this aftermarket rack hangs down below the xmember and I didn't want to smack it on a curb and disconnect it from the car...

 

Sweet looking ride! Do you have any other pictures posted? 

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really like the looks of it, very cool with the side pipes.

 

I was looking at this universal splitter. Used on quite a few cars from the sounds of it. Someone was posting that they even got banned from using it. Looks like it could work with some minor modifications. I like the channels that are built into it similar to how @Heavy85 had his in page 3.

 

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Edited by AZGhost623
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Where's the link to purchase that?

 

http://rt-performance.co.uk/

 

Guy said its 235 euros, shipping would be about the same I suppose. Im still waiting on shipping, as he said it was only 35 euros locally (London). May hit up Ztrix and see if they can make something similar.

Edited by AZGhost623

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Yes, that would be good if it fit, but the diffusers would make it illegal for lots of different racing categories, including mine (X Prepared). Another option is the NASCAR COT splitters. I bought one and it was too narrow for my car, but essentially it is just the front lip and a little more, probably 10 or 12" deep, then you could do your own diffusers on the backside if you wanted, or just run it back to the x member.

 

Just to update on my splitter, I found that the turnbuckles were too long even at the shortest setting, so now I'm thinking I'll make different length supports so that I can move the splitter down in 1/2" increments. Thinking of just pinching the ends of some -8 fuel line that I have and screwing that to the splitter and the dam.

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I've built (only in my head) an airdam that is mounted on drawer glides, with travel stops at the bottom, that would allow it to rise and fall as it skimmed along the ground. With maybe replaceable white plastic skid pads on the bottom.

 

The problem with my splitter was that, even dropping straight down off the front of the hood, and racing on a fairly smooth and level track, it kissed the ground several times. I think it has to do with the distance that the leading edge is in front of the wheels. Starting 3" off the ground, I never would have dreamed that it would kiss the ground, but it did. And it wasn't from downforce: when I cut the splitter/lip off, it STILL kissed the ground. And loading it on the trailer with it installed was a no-go. The 3" splitter I built was fine without supports to the airdam (the paint and resin showed no sign of flexing). I'm confident the scraping was due to suspension bump travel (possibly) aggravated by downforce. For next season I am doubling spring rate, putting the splitter back on, and trying again.

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post-5903-0-67293500-1436180546_thumb.jpg

post-5903-0-39585000-1436180612_thumb.jpg

Edited by RebekahsZ

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I think the sliding air dam is a potentially dangerous idea. If it's doing its job and making a bunch of downforce and then it loses contact, or if it hits a bump in the road and fails (on one side even), you're going to have a real issue. I know it's apples and oranges, but as I recall one of the main reasons that ground effects was banned in F1 was their sliding fences which maintained contact with the ground failed, causing a sudden lack of downforce and big crashes. Still, if you're going 170 mph, your risk tolerance should be adjusted to match the new conditions. 

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