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Just a quick question, for the first gen sbc swap in a s30; are there long tube headers that will fit not modifications (cutting etc)? If so which ones would be the best for more hp less tq?

Edited by vega

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As far as i konw ther isnt any that fit very well in the JTR mounting setup, I have a set of long tubes on the car now but i had to tweak them to fit. They hang a little low also so if your wanting to lower the car and drive it on some rougher roads the exhaust will scrape.

 

The headers i am using are the Sandersons C32 heres the url

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jay260z what mods did you have to do with the c32 headers and how do you like them overall? Any pics?

 

sorry for the delay ive been really busy and lost track.

 

The headers kinda wanted to point towards the passanger side so i had to pull the collectors towards the drivers side about 1" with a come-a-long and a tow strap. ill try and get some pics up if i can find my camera. I am using a t56 out of a lt1 car so the clutch master cyl hangs down right where the exhaust needs to be on the drivers side so that header may not need to be moved on your setup.

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sorry for the delay ive been really busy and lost track.

 

The headers kinda wanted to point towards the passanger side so i had to pull the collectors towards the drivers side about 1" with a come-a-long and a tow strap. ill try and get some pics up if i can find my camera. I am using a t56 out of a lt1 car so the clutch master cyl hangs down right where the exhaust needs to be on the drivers side so that header may not need to be moved on your setup.

 

Would the C33 with the 1 3/4 primary tubes fit any worse in your estimation?

Edited by 355Z

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I would love to see someone dyno their car with shorties, then long tubes and measure the gain. My guess is that it would be a very hard earned and expensive couple HP.

 

It's a common magazine comparo. Typically in the 10-15 hp range.

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hp gains with long tubes versus shorties will depend on the engine build. the more radical the build, the more long tubes make over block huggers.

 

I have seen a header comparison using a 350 with a compcam 292H (244/244 at 0.050). The long tubes made 75 more hp over cast iron log manifolds and 35 more than the block huggers.

 

I used a set of hooker headers made for a datsun V8 conversion. But took lots of work to get them to fit in a JTR engine position.

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i doubt they will clear the steering shaft

 

I'll have to do some modifications then. Ordered them late last Tuesday, were on my door Friday! I'll take some pics and post them. I currently have some S&S 1 3/4 headers, which have to come off and be returned to a previous owner. I'll let everyone know how they fit or whats needed to make them fit.

Edited by 355Z

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They FIT :) Put my 1 3/4" Sanderson Long tubes in tonight. Minor dimpling on the drivers side to clear the steering shaft, and they barely touch the JTR engine mount. driver side goes in with removal of the shaft. Passenger side goes in with the removal of the engine mount. Collectors come out about half way betwenn the bell housing and the frame rail, just right, and easily clear the floor. Sanderson doesn't say they they fit the 280Z in the add, but they do. They were $405 shipped to my door. I am very happy and the quality is about the same or a little better than the S&S 1 3/4 tubes. Took about 2.5 hours for just the headers and the clearance with a lift. forgot to check spark plug clearance since I run angle plug heads, but I'm sure they will since they advertise that they will clear. Pics to follow.

Edited by 355Z

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Thanks Ricci. This pic is of the drivers side from underneath the vehicle. It shows the header behind the steering shaft; The header primary tube on the left is the one we had to dimple to clear the shaft. The upper right corner of the JTR adaptor also touches the same tube(The bolt head showing behind the steering shaft is the corner in question) Grind a little off of that corner and you will be set.

 

Hope this help those who are looking to put 1 3/4 primary tube headers on their 240-280Zs

post-6696-037352600 1280243552_thumb.jpg

Edited by 355Z

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I am thinking about ordering the same headers, I have a '71 240z, does anyone know if the clearances should be the same? Or has anyone installed the 33ap headers on a 240? very helpful before I spend the $400.

 

Thanks!

 

Just as an update I bought the C33 headers for my '71 240z...they are NOT bolt up in my case, luckily I am local to Sanderson and they have been EXTREMELY helpful with modifying them to make them fit, if anyone would like pictures of some of the clearance issues and modifications I can upload them before they get installed on Tues or Weds. Also for anyone in my situation, make sure your oil pan does not have flares on the side as the passenger side headers WILL NOT FIT. I also had to have the headers dented to clear the steering shaft (not sure the correct name) and the passenger side frame rails and also the suspension thingy the sits below the frame rail (yeah I'm pretty clueless about suspension). I also had to shave down the bellhousing on my T5 where the slave cylinder goes, but that was fine since I am using a hydraulic throwout bearing. In addition I bought a oil filter relocation kit that looks pretty nifty from Trans-Dapt. I have a pretty hot engine which will benefit from the log tubes, but I encourage anyone with a similarly limited knowledge of car things to avoid the long tube headers unless your engine really requires them. If anyone wants pictures or elaboration I can try to help you out.

 

PS shameless plug, Jeremy at Sanderson Headers has been really helpful, I have been there a number of times and he has not charged me extra to get all the modifications done and he even gave me a discount for be local/jobless/paying cash/etc, if you are buying headers for a Z I would ask for him.

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Drivers side (tape showing where additional clearance needed for steering shaft)

post-19736-052869500 1310438608_thumb.jpg

 

Good thing I didn't need that slave cylinder huh?

post-19736-048573300 1310438638_thumb.jpg

 

Passenger side (tape showing where runs into frame rails)

post-19736-027222400 1310438663_thumb.jpg

 

Showing suspension part interference, you can see the above photo how this has already been clearanced.

post-19736-064417300 1310438681_thumb.jpg

 

Tomorrow I will be taking them back to Sanderson to have the taped areas worked on. If you need them worked I would either call them and ask for the best advice on how to do yourself or maybe they could measure mine and duplicate the clearances for you?

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First time poster here.. I use to have a 70 240Z with a 383 stroker (Early 90's).. The headers I had were made by hooker..The driver side didnt fit.. So I mounted the header upside down on the pass side.. Used a torch to heat up the tubes at the head and had to bend them outwards alittle..

I cant wait to get another Z to build and have fun with..

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I got a set of the (c 33)'s this spring and the mods made by oakland240 are the same as what i did. I however use streght plug heads and needed to dimple there to. i didn't like the collectors so i cut them out and used a set of merge collectors from edelbrock that look great. The hardest part of the install was bending the pasenger side header to clear the frame rail.

Overall i am very happy with them. Not a bolt on but close enough for anyone to install.

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