Zcardiesel Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Hi, just bought my first Zcar and had it delivered last weekend. It's my first "gasser" vehicle that I've owned since I started driving at 16 (only owned diesels since). Bought it in MD, but it's a Texas car and had almost every fluid drained out to winterize it. So last weekend I bought oil, all service filters, coolant, and fresh gas to put into the tank. I changed the air filter, oil filter, fuel filter, installed oil in engine, coolant in cooling system, and installed a good battery from another vehicle I own until I buy a new one for the car. I didn't change the spark plugs or wires as they looked like they were in good shape to start to get it running first and then go from there. But it my attempts all the engine will do is crank and not start. I haven't even got it to start to fire, just continuous cranking sound of the starter. Did not check for spark at each plug, which I know I have to do before getting too far but I think it's related to no fuel getting to the engine. It's the EFI L28E engine with automatic trans and I believe no EGR. After cranking it I took off the fuel outlet hose that goes from the outlet of fuel filter to fuel supply line and it was bone dry. Not even hardly a smell of gas in it either, so it's telling me I have an issue with getting fuel to the under hood area. Also, when turning the ignition to the "ON" position I don't get any sound at all from the fuel pump which I believe you should hear it run for a few seconds before going to start. Is there a quick way to test the fuel pump? The closest thing I have to a workshop manual is an 82 Datsun Maxima workshop manual that covers the L24E engine (little brother to L28E) and it covers testing an EFI relay, fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump. But just don't know if the Zcar chassis is different then the Maxima. By scouring the manual I think the problem lies within the two relays, fuel pump, or even the ECU that I can't believe the car has being a 75! I guess they were ahead of their time with electronic fuel injection in 75, but can anyone give advice or a place to start diagnosing it. It's supposed to have low mileage, so I'm sure it can't be anything too major. Thanks. Sal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcardiesel Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 Maybe I posted this in the wrong forum, but nobody has any advice?? I appreciate any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neotech84 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 I think the reason that you have no answers is that it seems like you answered your own question within you post. You have to get fuel in the lines first, so change your relays/ pump to get the fuel flowing. Or try some starting fluid to see if that works....... Next as you said check spark and air. We need the results to these tests to determine where to go next. Hope all goes well and welcome to HBZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcardiesel Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Hey, thanks for your reply. Will check it out further to see if I have spark at all 6 plugs. As far as the fuel pump is concerned where is the best place to buy a good, reputable pump I can closely compare to the factory Nissan pump or is an aftermarket unit best to put on now while I'm underneath replacing it? I didn't want to get into throwing too many parts at it without doing testing on it, but I don't have a factory workshop manual and I thought I'd get the best help posting here. We'll keep you updated with the progress on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Look for a walbro 255 fuel pump, I believe summit carries them. Or you can also try a local JY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielz Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 HI... just joined Hybrid Z and have been looking through the forums. I am having the same problem with a 76 280z. It was running and then the next morning would not start. Have checked about everything. I think it might be a timing issue - that's tomorrow's task! What did you do about your fuel pump? If you disconnect the solenoid at the starter so you can turn the key to start (without turning over the engine), you should be able to hear the pump running. Also, with the key in the on position, if you manually move the flap in the AFM you will also hear it run. You can also use a screwdriver against the fuel regulator to hear it "humming" as you hold the flap.. If you did change the fuel pump, what did you use and how is it working out? I might change mine too. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcardiesel Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Update...I did end up changing my fuel pump shortly after I bought the car. I have now finally got a chance to get my hands back on this thing and work on it. I bought a good, rebuilt distributor for the engine a while ago because last I noticed the wiring for the distributor had been chewed in half. I just got done installing the replacement distributor today and the engine still will not start. I have confirmed that the fuel pump is working and pumping fuel up to the fuel filter and out into the rubber supply line going to the metal line that feeds the injectors. With the solenoid disconnected at the starter and turning the key to start you can hear the pump run. I can hold the key in this position for one whole minute and the pump runs that whole minute. Are the injectors supposed to make a clicking noise when you unplug and then plug them back in? I am getting no sound...and with cranking the engine as much as I have I know I have air. Pulled #1 spark plug out of the head, plugged the wire back in, and checked for spark against the valve cover. I had it while cranking, so I have spark, air, and what I believe to be fuel. What could be the problem here? Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Four year old fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcardiesel Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Four year old fuel? I'm sure that's a problem and getting new, fresh gas in it would be a start. Shortly after I bought the car when I went to pull the drain plug on the tank it didn't flow but a few drops, so I hope the tank is not plugged or gummed up. But after I changed the original fuel pump with a good fuel pump, primed pump to get gas up to the filter, I did get the engine to start for 1-2 seconds but then shut right off. This was all done 4 years ago, now after changing the distributor I haven't even got it to want to fire or start. Could I have a bad AFM? I did not hear the fuel pump run with key "on" and the flap held open... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 If you changed the distributor. Make sure the wires are in the correct order and the timing is correct. Check the plugs are they covered in fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 (edited) I'm sure that's a problem and getting new, fresh gas in it would be a start. Shortly after I bought the car when I went to pull the drain plug on the tank it didn't flow but a few drops, so I hope the tank is not plugged or gummed up. But after I changed the original fuel pump with a good fuel pump, primed pump to get gas up to the filter, I did get the engine to start for 1-2 seconds but then shut right off. This was all done 4 years ago, now after changing the distributor I haven't even got it to want to fire or start. Could I have a bad AFM? I did not hear the fuel pump run with key "on" and the flap held open... Check for spark. If you have spark, try starting fluid. If it fires and runs right, then dies, you'll know you have a fueling problem. If you can't hear the pump running, that could be the fuel pump contact switch in the AFM, Easily fixed, if so, no need to replace the complete AFM. Could also be the fuel pump relay, or the fuel pump itself. But, as you've deduced, the pump should run with the key On and the flap open. I have had material get on the the AFM fuel pump switch and stop it from working. If you take the cover off of the side of the AFM you can see the switch arm, that pushes to tiny contact points together. A speck of dust can block contact. You could jump it with a screwdriver if you want to test it, or polish up the contact points. Edited May 10, 2014 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcardiesel Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 If you changed the distributor. Make sure the wires are in the correct order and the timing is correct. Check the plugs are they covered in fuel? I will recheck timing and last weekend when I worked on it I did not have a fuel covered spark plug when I pulled #1 out. NewZed, I did confirm I have spark when I took the #1 plug out and tied it close to the valve cover. Didn't check any other plugs, but if they are not covered I probably should try starting fluid. I will look into the contact points on the AFM and try to clean them. Did not think about the fuel pump relay and where is it located? I know the pump runs, has power to it, and works. If I take the wire off the starter solenoid and then turn the ignition to "start" and hold it the pump runs as long as I'm holding the key. Thanks for all the help and advice so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) I know the pump runs, has power to it, and works. If I take the wire off the starter solenoid and then turn the ignition to "start" and hold it the pump runs as long as I'm holding the key. Wrote some stuff then realized that if you had a relay or AFM switch problem the car should still start, run for a few seconds, then die, if the pump runs when the key is turned to Start, as you describe. When the key is at Start the rail should pressurize and things should work as they're supposed to, injectors and cold start valve. Your problem lies somewhere else, not at the pump or AFM. Have you checked for power to the injectors? Continuity to Pin 1 from the coil negative post? You should open the Engine Fuel chapter and Body Electrical and make sure the fusible links are all in good shape and everything is connected correctly in the EFI harness. Download the Fuel Injection Guide also, for the diagrams, and additional advice. Use the 1980 Guide, it has early and late models included. Test from the pins at the ECU connector. You'll waste time and money if you start guessing and swapping. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Edited May 11, 2014 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcardiesel Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Ok, update on working on the car. Using the fuel injection guide and doing some testing I have confirmed that the fuel pump runs with the key in the "ON" position and when I open the flap on the AFM. Pulled the air intake pipe and air filter housing off the car to also look inside at the flap. Also in the testing they want you to unplug the ignition lead wire to the control unit and test it with a test light to see if there is power with key "ON". Is this wire plug a single wire that has a blue wire on one side and a white wire on the other? I unplugged it and think it's the right one but not sure. Also put my hand on the power relay when turning key back and worth and it clicks. That is supposed to confirm the fuel injection relay is good right? Looks like next step is to check power at the injectors or see if they click with the above ignition lead wire unplugged and then plugged back in. This certainly is a fueling problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZcalledOdessa Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 I had an issue similar to yours. Fuel pump, relays and filter all were fine. On my '75 the injectors were gummed up from old gas. It can happen even if you drain the tank. I took my injectors out and soaked them in rubbing alcohol for a few hours. That did the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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