Jump to content
HybridZ
Sign in to follow this  
Booztd 3

Official CAS Disassembly for AEM 24-tooth Disc

Recommended Posts

Booztd 3    14

Guys

 

This is how you properly disassemble an RB26/RB25/Z32 CAS

 

The purpose of the disassembly was to install the 24-tooth AEM Disc

 

This particular write-up will show pictures of a Z32 CAS. The only difference I noticed in taking both RB26 Mitsu and Z32 Mitsu CAS was the 3 screws for the main cover.

 

Pictured below, begin by removing the 3 screws for the cover. On the Z32, it uses tamper proof screws, the RB just uses regular screws. I used my smallest chisel punch and tapped them until they came loose, and then finished removing them with a large flathead

 

Cas_1.JPG

 

Once the screws are out, lightly tap the shaft of the CAS, and it will separate from the cover

 

Cas_2.JPG

 

Next, the dowel pin holding the engagement shaft on to the CAS assembly

 

Cas_3.JPG

 

I placed the CAS in a small vice where it could not move 'downwards' and used an air hammer with a grinded off punch

 

Hammer_1.JPG

 

Hammer_3.JPG

 

You can see I got the dowel to move. I used a small punch to remove it the rest of the way. You may have problems getting the pin out, on the RB CAS, I had to take a die grinder with a cut-off wheel and grind off the flat spot that was holding the dowel in place

 

Cas_4.JPG

 

Main cover, engagement shaft, dowel pin

 

Cas_5.JPG

 

Now, the front bearing needs to be removed. I accomplished this by using a small 7mm socket to fit over the 1/2 moon piece that engages the camshaft 1/2 moon. (the CAS below had the indexing key broke off, so i was able to just set the puller right on the intermediate shaft) I then used a small 3 jaw puller purchased from harbor freight for just a few dollars. I had to grind the bottoms off of the jaws so it would fit all the way under the bearing

 

Cas_61.JPG

 

Here you can see the bearing is removed, next you want to remove the 2 gold screws that hold the intermediate shaft to the main shaft

 

Cas_6.JPG

 

After removing the 2 small screws, you need to press the main shaft out of the lower bearing. Begin by popping off the rubber Mitsu cover. I used a smaller socket to fit into the bearing and onto the main shaft. Again, I used the small puller to press out the main shaft. I used the small punch to hold the shaft from spinning while I turned the puller

 

Cas_72.JPG

 

I apologize for the following blurry pic, but after the intermediate shaft is removed, the wheel will come right out. Its held in place by being pressed in between the main shaft and intermediate shaft.

 

Cas_8.JPG

 

Now install the AEM 24 tooth disc. You can see the disc below. You DO NOT need to remove the actual black part of the sensor. I only did this for educational purposes

 

Cas_91.JPG

 

Once the disc is in, place the intermediate shaft back onto the main shaft and secure the 2 small gold screws. At this point the main shaft needs to be pressed back into the lower bearing. I accomplished this by placing the front bearing back over the intermediate shaft, and then using a socket, and a vice as a press. Press the bearing on until it seats, and it will continue to press the main shaft into the lower bearing.

 

Cas_9.JPG

 

After that, you need to install the engagement shaft and the dowel pin. Once again I used the bench vise

 

Cas_10.JPG

 

Now install main cover and 3 securing screws, as well as the rubber dust cover on the back side. The CAS should spin freely. If not, you dont have the shafts and bearings seated properly.

 

Cas_11.JPG

 

Cas_12.JPG

 

I had a used leftover Z32 harness that I cut the connector off of, and depinned the RB CAS connector, and then pinned it back into the Z32 connector. Installed on the car, and here is the result

 

DSC04016.JPG

 

Dont forget to make the necessary software changes that AEM requires

 

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=20346.0;attach=6108

 

The car started right up, and after getting some seat time, the typical 'hiccup' stock CAS sensors have is now gone. The car accels significantly smoother, and I went out and did some 25psi pulls and didnt have a single issue. Hopefully hitting the dyno up friday!

 

Cheers!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dwarlick    12

Boost, Thanks for taking the time to take some good pics and step by step this. I actually have to do this very soon and your tutorial will come in handy. Does it matter if the sensor goes back in the exact same position as it came out ie put the motor in TDC mark the position of the sensor etc.? I am not exactly sure how the ECU interprets the information provided by the CAS.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Booztd 3    14

Boost, Thanks for taking the time to take some good pics and step by step this. I actually have to do this very soon and your tutorial will come in handy. Does it matter if the sensor goes back in the exact same position as it came out ie put the motor in TDC mark the position of the sensor etc.? I am not exactly sure how the ECU interprets the information provided by the CAS.

 

The engagement shaft of the sensor, as well as the cam, are keyed. There is only one way they can fit with eachother

Edited by Booztd 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×