JMortensen Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Yes, stub axle splines being loose can cause clunks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share Posted August 20, 2010 So would a good test be to engage the parking brake, remove the hub end of the CV axle and try to turn my companion flange adapters on the CV side? Will I really need to yank on them, or should I be able to tell by turning it by hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 I would put a ratchet on the big nut on the inside and a prybar on the wheel studs and pull as hard as you can one direction, then switch it around and try the other direction and see if it clunks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share Posted August 20, 2010 But the big nut is threaded onto the strub axle. I would want to test whether or not there was play between my CV adapters and my stub axles, correct? I'm thinking I could rip the parking brake which would secure the stub axle via the drum brake, then thread two of the 4 bolts into the adapters and use a pry bar there to see if I can get it to move. Does this sound right? But say I don't have any play, what is the next thing to consider here? Could my CV axles themselves cause this noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 But the big nut is threaded onto the strub axle. I would want to test whether or not there was play between my CV adapters and my stub axles, correct? I'm thinking I could rip the parking brake which would secure the stub axle via the drum brake, then thread two of the 4 bolts into the adapters and use a pry bar there to see if I can get it to move. Does this sound right? Doh! You are right. Your test sounds like it would work. But say I don't have any play, what is the next thing to consider here? Could my CV axles themselves cause this noise? Sure. Anything that has slop could cause a clunk. I don't know how to test a RWD CV joint. On a FWD you crank the steering wheel and step on the gas and it will give a click click click if the joint is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share Posted August 20, 2010 So just by holding the CV axles and twisting the opposite ends in opposite directions won't tell me anything? Just for the record, this clunking was present before I even installed my R200 LSD/CV Axles/CV adapter/280z stub axles. It may or may not be the same issue, but it sure did sound the same! After the transmission mount, I would question the motor mounts, but after that, I'm dead in the water with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 So just by holding the CV axles and twisting the opposite ends in opposite directions won't tell me anything? I don't know. Maybe someone else could give an opinion there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 Alright, I'll look around. Hey, I've got some videos I've took. I put the rear of the car on jack stands and applied the parking brake in all these videos to create a load situation. The first one is one of the camera directly below the transmission crossmember. To me, it is shaking WAY too much. Look at that transmission bouncing around! I'm going to go out again and tighten up the bolts/nuts on the ends to see if that helps, but regardless, I do have another transmission insulator on the way. Maybe the insulator is so loose and the crossmember bolts aren't tight enough and causing the transmission to smack into the side of the tunnel? Gosh I HOPE this is my problem! This next one is a shot from the rear. Everything appears normal and nothing looks to be loose. The mustache bar is flexing a little, but it looks normal to me. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 Hey guys, Just got back in from looking at my transmission mount and it looks like its missing some bushings! The transmission crossmember has the press-in bushings just like the rear LCAs, except they also have little end "cap" bushing. There is supposed to be two "caps" on each side, but there was only one on each side. There was at least a 1/4" gap between the body and the crossmember. I may have just found the clunk. Energy suspension poly bushings on the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 i had a clunk that sounded like it was in back.removed the diff and inspected ok.while putting all back together i noticed the trans mount rubber was weak and the trans mount was grounded to the cross member.replaced the trans mount-clunk gone.auto parts stores still carry these-$22 at napa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 Wow, really!? Thats awesome! I'd rather have the Energy Suspension poly. bushing to match everything else. That amazes me that Napa would carry that bushing. Man, I REALLY hope this is the problem. If this isn't it, I'll be extremely upset! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 (edited) i had a clunk that sounded like it was in back.removed the diff and inspected ok.while putting all back together i noticed the trans mount rubber was weak and the trans mount was grounded to the cross member.replaced the trans mount-clunk gone.auto parts stores still carry these-$22 at napa A dumb question: What do you call the trans mount? Is it the bushings/mount that hold the transmission (=gearbox) to the body or the front bushing at the differential with the cross member being the piece that hold the front bushings of the rear control arms? Like everybody else (almost!) I do also have a clunk. That could be something nice to check... My whole rear end however is new (front diff bushing, mustache bar bushings, etc...) Edited August 24, 2010 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 I call it the transmission crossmember, and then there is an insulator sandwiched between that and the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 (edited) Ok, it's clear now (I was double guessing my English vocabulary) Edited August 24, 2010 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Just read through this thread trying to get insight on my clunk issue. I am also running RT mount and all my suspension bushings have been replaced. I also have had a high speed driveline vibration. I concluded that all these items were related to a compromised tranny mount(welded on and probably ruined rubber). I recently moored my tranny down with a cable set up and the tranny is now very secure against the rubber mount-and the clunk is still there. I think I got rid of my high speed vibration-still need more testing-but my clunk during gear changes(mostly at lower rpms) is still there. Please keep this thread updated. I will be changing out my R200 for a STI r180 and we will see if the diff has anything to do with my clunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 I had a dry u-joint in a half-shaft and it caused a clanky, metallic type of clunk. Loose u-joints are hard to diagnose though, without prying on them with a screwdriver or taking the half-shaft off so that you can get a really good look at them. I've also found that old, worn Nissan u-joints that haven't gone bad yet seem to be tighter than new, ~$20 auto store u-joints. My limited experience with an old 280Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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