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Running AN fittings & braided Stainless on Triples

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I was searching around and can't seem to find much info. I'm looking to run Russell stainless braided fuel lines along with their AN compression fittings for my triple weber DCOE 40 setup. I understand i'd need three banjo fittings, and i'm assuming the measurment converts to AN number -6. However, i'm curious as to how to go about doing the "T" fittings at each carb to route fuel to the banjo bolts. Has anyone got pictures of Triples with such a setup or similar?

Edited by LowCarbZ

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They sell banjo bolt fittings with male AN connectors. Just run a small piece of -6 from the banjo bolt to the T and at the last carb, just run a 90* fitting.

 

I can't find a pic of triple webbers using AN fittings though.

 

K659.jpg

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I was hoping I could find a source for a banjo "T" style like what is in the picture but have come up empty. I may have to take the route you're suggesting with a chunk of line from the banjo to the "T".

 

The setup pictures is essentially the way my plumbing is at the moment.

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Had trouble trying to load a picture for you. However, if you look at my build thread (A 240Z by 310Z)you will see how my car is set up. This set up allows easy access to the valve cover without removing fuel lines.

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When Mikuini was supplying their intake manifold and carburettors for the Datsun Z, they had an AN Fitting Stainless Braided Line Kit available. I think Pegasus Racing in Wisconsin sells the metric Banjo fittings for the carbs now... I know there are Weber Fuel Inlet to AN Fittings available out there...

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Weber DCO = 12 mm X 1.5 mm threads

 

Dellorto DHLA & Mikuni PHH = 12 mm X 1.25 mm threads

 

Solex ADDHE = 9 mm X 1 mm threads

 

Russel, Earls, Aeroquip, and even no-name brands (like Jegs) all produce -AN to metric fitting and all the -AN plumbing your looking for. Use the list above for your particular carb, then choose your -AN size: 8-AN, 6-AN, 4-AN; etc.

 

Search Summit Racing dot com '-an metric' and you will find an extensive list and descriptions to build your custom plumbing.

 

EAR-9919DFGERL Earls part number, might be the cheapest way to connect and -AN hose to your carb, just at 10 bucks. The swivel (EAR-949092ERL) might be as cheap but I always worry about fuel leakage. The carb doesn't move so I see no need for the swivel. Your call. But hose can flex a bit and they usually don't leak, unless they rub a hole. In that case your in trouble eitherway...

 

Best of luck, and post some pics when your done. Happy parts hunting.

Edited by brokebolt

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You guys are awesome as usual, thanks for all the info!

 

310Z i'll have a peek at your build, thanks.

 

Tony, you always make me wonder if there is anything about Z's you DON'T know...

 

Lostfairlady, I assume a setup like that will have to work for what i'm after. I was sort of after a banjo with the "T" on one end, but i'll make it work once I figure out the route i'll take. I am thinking that I will go with Russell's products.

 

Brokebolt, the sizings are extremely helpful. I've narrowed the -AN equivelant size that I need to number 6 (as far as I can tell). I'm not worried about spending a few bucks to do it, i'm not into cheaping out on my Z, however I appreciate every bit of information supplied. Very helpful.

 

Oh, and i'll dig this thread back up to show some pics once it's done.

Edited by LowCarbZ

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I walked into the local speed shop and ordered the pieces to build this a few years ago. Don't remember the specs off hand but it did cost $250ish Canadian dollars. Mikuni Solex carbs.

med_AN_fuel_rail.JPG

 

It will nicely match this:

med_car_pics_aug_1306_001.jpg

Edited by v8wannabe2

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I was looking through a plumbing book and ran across this the other day and I thought I'd share some info.

 

Standard auto hose to -AN hose equivalent:

 

1/8 inch = -2

3/16 inch = -3

1/4 inch = -4

5/16 inch = -5

3/8 inch = -6

1/2 inch = -8

5/8 inch = -10

3/4 inch = -12

1 inch = -16

1 1/4 inch = -20

1 1/2 inch = -24

1 3/4 inch = -28

2 inch = -32

 

Another method to convert -AN size to S.A.E. is to remember that -AN number represents 1/16 inch:

 

For example: -8AN = 8/16 inch = 1/2 inch.

 

-AN Thread sizes:

 

-AN size = Metal Tube O.D. in inches = Thread Size and Pitch S.A.E.

 

-2 = 1/8 inch = 5/16 - 24 S.A.E.

-3 = 3/16 inch = 3/8 - 24 S.A.E.

-4 = 1/4 inch = 7/16 - 20 S.A.E.

-5 = 5/16 inch = 1/2 - 20 S.A.E.

-6 = 3/8 inch = 9/16 - 18 S.A.E.

-8 = 1/2 inch = 3/4 - 16 S.A.E.

-10 = 5/8 inch = 7/8 - 14 S.A.E.

-12 = 3/4 inch = 1 1/16 - 12 S.A.E.

-16 = 1 inch = 1 5/16 - 12 S.A.E.

-20 = 1 1/4 inch = 1 5/8 - 12 S.A.E.

-24 = 1 1/2 inch = 1 7/8 - 12 S.A.E.

-28 = 1 3/4 inch = 2 1/4 -12 S.A.E.

-32 = 2 inch = 2 1/2 - 12 S.A.E.

 

-AN size wrench size to S.A.E. wrench size (if you use a standard S.A.E. wrench don't over torque the fittings):

 

-4 = 9/16 inch S.A.E.

-6 = 11/16 inch S.A.E.

-8 = 7/8 inch S.A.E.

-10 = 1 inch S.A.E.

-12 = 1 1/4 inch S.A.E.

-16 = 1 1/2 inch S.A.E.

 

My copy has plumbing "shadows" so you can match up the actual fitting to a "picture" for fast identifications for both -A.N. and N.P.T. But if you have a set of calipers or a steel scale handy you can also measure them just as quick. Hope this helps.

 

Found this on the web, not sure how true but shows some standard metric to S.A.E hose sizes:

 

4mm = 5/32 inch

5.5mm = 7/32 inch

6mm = 1/4 inch

8mm = 5/16 inch

10mm = 3/8 inch

11mm = 7/16 inch

13mm = 1/2 inch

14mm = 9/16 inch

16mm = 5/8 inch

19mm = 3/4 inch

50mm = 2 inch

57mm = 2 1/4 inch

64mm = 2 1/2 inch

 

One more thought on fuel pumps:

 

Your pump must be capable of maintaining the

minimum GPH at working pressure under all conditions

 

HP divided by 2 = lb./hr. (pounds per hour)

lb./hr divided by 6 = gallons per hour required (min)

Multiply GPH by 1.15 for safety factor

 

Example: 600 HP divided by 2 = 300,

300 divided by 6 = 50

50 multiplied by 1.15 = 57.5 (minimum gallons per hour)

(This formula is for gasoline only.)

Edited by brokebolt
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Thanks for the additional info. I haven't got around to doing it yet as i've been daily driving the Z as we're down a car. It will likely get pushed back until the snow flies and I re-build the carbs etc. I'll update this thread for sure though, good information.

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I did mine almost like how you describe you want to do yours. I am still very happy with the result and I haven't seen another set up I like better yet.

 

A full thread of mine and more like it is below.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/monthly_03_2010/post-5891-12675448296219.jpg

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/89337-show-off-your-braided-fuel-lines-and-dash-fittings/page__p__848125__fromsearch__1#entry848125

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Hey all, sorry to dig up this old thread. I saw the post by (lostfairlady?)  @Zlived about the T fitting going directly into the top of the carb; I've never seen anybody set it up like this and I am VERY interested in finding out more. Was this your setup? What AN fittings did you use? I see that silver-colored adapter fitting... Do you have finished pictures?

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