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goodoldjam

Post your Intercooler setup.

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280zex    14

the carb doesnt cool anything at all. However the atomization of fuel in the carb works like meth injection. I have 100 deg F intake temps at full run at 22psi. Its not at all good with fuel. 17mpg average and 4 mpg at wot and if it idles too long it will foul the plugs. Mabe I need to try a msd box. This setup is very different. The longer I stay on the throttle the more hp it makes until peak turbo flow.

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stony    11

the carb doesnt cool anything at all. However the atomization of fuel in the carb works like meth injection. I have 100 deg F intake temps at full run at 22psi. Its not at all good with fuel. 17mpg average and 4 mpg at wot and if it idles too long it will foul the plugs. Mabe I need to try a msd box. This setup is very different. The longer I stay on the throttle the more hp it makes until peak turbo flow.

 

OK so it runs good all im saying is it would run better, boost higher with an intercooler.

 

if the outside temp is 75 degrees, my air intake temps are 75-79 degree at the top end of a 1/4 mile run. running 750 rwhp at 31 PSI

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Ben    0

My original setup had 2" SS piping and an AiResearch intercooler:

 

post-103-038933000 1286190520_thumb.jpg

 

 

The current setup uses 2.5" MS piping, and 450x300x76 FMIC:

 

post-103-092806500 1286190616_thumb.jpg

 

 

I too swapped the hot/cold side plumbing in my second version.

The intercooler/plumbing changes saw an extra 3psi boost at the same WG duty-cycle, and allowed a 15kW increase via lower AIT's and the ability to lean out the mixture.

 

 

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ezzzzzzz    0

I'm using a Laminova three core aftercooler built by Rick Zimmer at www.boostecus.com for my SC'd L28 240Z. This is a mere 14" x 6" x 1.6" and rated to approximately 350hp. It is sandwiched between the SC and the plenum. A 12 volt pump, reservoir, hoses and a small radiator (around 20" x 6" x 1") will complete the system. No problems with long complex piping or giant intercoolers. Cost will come in around $1200.

post-881-062030700 1288791916_thumb.jpeg

Edited by ezzzzzzz

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Tony D    143

The main reason, if you vent after your venting air that has already been cooled and that gets replaced with more warm air.

Having to remove extra heat is always something you want to avoid.

 

The problem is the air volume that has to be exhausted is more when it's hot than when it's cold. This is a common problem with industrial turbos where one side BOV works after the cooler, but it must be 25 to 50% larger when placed upstream of the cooler.

 

Placing it there will work, but only if the additional volume of the hot air being relieved is taken into account. Otherwise, this can cause a surge issue due to inadequate relief valve sizing.

 

Unless your car completely stops airflow across the intercooler when the BOV opens, it's a spurious argument to justify placing the BOV before the I/C as opposed to after it.

 

Additionally, the reverse wave of pressure will start at the T/B, and a BOV will stop this from travelling upstream towards the turbocharger. Your flow remains 'towards' the T/B when it vents there, venting at the turbocharger will allow reverse flow through the entire system before relief...

 

This can manifest itself in transitional response issues.

Edited by Tony D

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tyler031734    15

Im using a 2" to 2.5" 90* elbow right off the stock t3. 2.5" all the way to the 60mm TB. I figured it would be the smoothest way to transition from the two sizes and 2.5" inlet/outlet inter coolers are plentiful. used an ebay kit and had left over parts but I didn't go under the motor or anything fancy. My cold side is rather long as it comes from the passenger side fresh air hole in the core support, I dont like the idea of adding more bends and trading cooler air for less efficiency. One of the reasons I went bar and plate for the IC.

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cd1105    10

Im using a 2" to 2.5" 90* elbow right off the stock t3. 2.5" all the way to the 60mm TB. I figured it would be the smoothest way to transition from the two sizes and 2.5" inlet/outlet inter coolers are plentiful. used an ebay kit and had left over parts but I didn't go under the motor or anything fancy. My cold side is rather long as it comes from the passenger side fresh air hole in the core support, I dont like the idea of adding more bends and trading cooler air for less efficiency. One of the reasons I went bar and plate for the IC.

Thanks :) what ebay kit did you buy? i bought one(2.5"), but i think i will need more piping.

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I just mocked up my intercooler piping today. I got the aluminum pipe and couplers from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ ;) I have a cheap ebay T3/T04E and the piping is 2" off the turbo then necks up to 2.5" at the intercooler then into the throttle body. I just need to order a 2.75" to 2.5" adapter now for the throttle body because I didn't realize my 240sx throttle body is a little bigger than 2.5" I need to order some 3" stuff for the intake into the turbo too and a nice K&N filter, then once the fuel lines and surge tank are mounted, the megasquirt wired up, and the exhaust and wastegate welded up this baby will be on the road again! (Oh yea and a custom driveshaft)

 

 

 

This shiny new motor is going to make my old faded paint look even worse!

 

 

 

I got this trick BOV coupler from silicone intakes too. Pointing down is the only way I could get the Type RFL BOV to fit. This saved me from having to buy the equipment to weld aluminum or pay someone to do it.

 

 

 

It's gonna be pretty tight between the fan and the motor. I think there is enough clearance though. Once I tighten the clamps I can get about 1/4" clearance on each side of the pipe. I might rigidly mount this pipe to the motor if there is any problem with it hitting the fan.

Edited by RB26powered74zcar
Images way to large. Please resize before posting.

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