mr jdm Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Take the IACV under the manifold, make a plate out of aluminum and weld it shut. You can set your idle rpm with the throttle screw. I have done this with 2 different RB's and my sr20, using the same exact manifold. With a 272 duration, 12.5mm Cam, my idle is a solid 900 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Ztr. Funny thing is I was blocking it off as you were telling me. I used a piece of sheet aluminum, cut it to size. Rtv'd it on and used the screw from the bracket to hold it all in place. I really want to get this thing started tomorrow. I dont plan on driving it but just starting it and making sure she runs. Here is what I still need adressed. 1. 6pin near firewall. Ztr said he had one that was unused. Couldnt trace it back to anything on the ecu. 2. DONE. AAC plan to have a bung welded on my IC piping but it seems from what some have said shouldnt have a problem starting without it. 3. still dont know what these cut wires are off the alternator. Any help would be great. Looks like an agua and black wire. Comes off the alternator portion of the lower harness. 4. Blue plug near alternator. Also couldnt get a read on any of the ecu pins on this part of the harness. Might be the vss like Ztr said. 5. Brown cut plug on lower engine harness. Still no idea. Both wires coming off of it are black. 6. Green plug on drivers side. No idea on this one. Couldnt find it on the ecu. 7. Maf plug. I tested the gray wire and it does power the injectors per chris rummels write up. So this should be the Maf. Should I just leave it unplugged? Their is also a female connection on the pass side that looks identical but has 8 wires in it. No idea where that goes. 8. orange plug on drivers side. NO clue 9. Boost solenoid. Not needed. If I did want it how would I hook it up? If I wanted to bypass it how would I do that. Just run vacuum to the wastegate above the turbo? 10. Done Vss blocked off. For now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr jdm Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) This is how my car idles with no iacv. That is 1100 rpm, before aI adjusted the throttle screw and set the base timing. You are in Illnois, so am I, what part are you in? I am very good at wiring if you need help. Edited October 27, 2011 by mr jdm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Well I got it started today. Lots of work to do before it is drivable. Idled a bit rough with no AAC but ran none the less. Will get a video up once I figure out how. Mr Jdm I am in Wheeling about 8 minutes from Bob Chins if you know where that is. Im doing alright on wiring but I would like to meet up and check out your car sometime. I am trying to get my speedhut water temp gauge installed and have a question. I plan to remove the factory gauge sender from the intake and put the speedhut sender their. What size is the factory water temp sender? I know the speedhut is 1/8 npt but what adapter would I need to get it to fit in the stock sender location? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 From what I have read the stock sender size is m12 x 1.25 so I think this should work. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Russell-M12-x-1-25-straight-banjo-bolt-adapter-fitting-with-1-8-in-NPT-female-port-for-use-with-Russell-640910-641110-and-641120?itemIdentifier=773861&_requestid=2500326&_requestid=2500349&_requestid=2500365&_requestid=2500387&_requestid=2500410 Can anyone confirm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr jdm Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) That is too funny, I live in Buffalo Grove and store my car in Mt. Prospect, I wouldn't mind dropping by some time tomorrow if your free between 7-9pm. Pm me your number if your comfortable I put my car together a while ago already, the thread is either m12x1.25 or m14x1.5 I dont remember which but that fitting is exactly what I used for oil pressure, none the less it would work for coolant. You can also avoid that fitting, its been a while since I've played with an RB but on the water neck there should be 2 senders, one for the gauge cluster, one to the ecu. You can simply take the one out that would goto the gauge and re-tap it for 1/8 npt and screw the sender in there instead of buying fittings. Edited October 27, 2011 by mr jdm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 The stock one is bigger than the speedhut one. I ordered the fitting I'll give it a try. I tried to pm you but it said you can't accept any more messages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 I tried a few different adapters but none of them worked, to my satisfaction at least. I just tapped it to 1/4 npt and used the bushing to adapt it down. That fitting you ordered is a banjo bolt. There is also one on ebay for like 6 bux but that thing snapped after like 5ft pounds of torque. I'm running speedhuts too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bohdan Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) The thread is M12x1.25 Here is the thread where its mentioned: http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136304. The RB sensor is the same as the KA because i had to switch mine to the KA one for the gauge to read properly in my 240sx. And if i were you, it the hole is bigger than the 1/8npt then drill it larger and tap with a 1/4npt and use ad adapret fitting from 1//4 to 1/8... Just like ZT-R mentioned. -Bohdan Edited October 27, 2011 by Bohdan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoman Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 (edited) There's three things you can do with the boost solenoid; (1)Leave it how it is and plumb the vacuum lines into it. (2) Take it out and plumb your waste gate directly to a boost source, however this will only allow the turbo to build 5psi before the waste gate opens. (3)Leave it in and wire it so it is constantly grounded. click HERE. I have read that having a constant ground on it can burn the solenoid out. The best way is to get a boost controller. If you do plan on getting a controller down the road. I would suggest just hard wiring the ground, that way you can have 7 psi under 4500rmp. Edited October 28, 2011 by motoman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr jdm Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Shoot me a text I might've cruising tonight 847 873 9649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Anyone know if I need a tach adapter with my speedhut gauge. It looks like the gauge can be programmed for any type of ignition type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Nm tried it and it worked on the stock setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Got it to move under it's own power. Got some finishing touches to do and need a few things before I take it for a long cruise but she's living and breathing. Will post some updates and pics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoman Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 And a video? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 Stupid iPhone won't post to YouTube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 See if this works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Let me know if the link works. I have completely removed the stock harness I am curious about hooking up the alternator. I have done a lot of research but everything is connecting it to the stock harness or a 240sx harness. What should I connect If I am wiring it from scratch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr jdm Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 If its a 2 plug connector Then white/red stripe goes to switched 12 volt Other Color goes to constant 12 volt Run a wire from the alternator post to the battery Thats it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Did you do the diode? If not the car will not turn off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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