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5thgenluder

1971 240z rb25det build thread

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Ok sorry its been so long since an update. I had a little time to work on the car today so here we go.

 

Radiator mounts.

 

So once again following the advice of others and with the help of RS speed Ive moved onto making the radiator mounts.

 

Step one.

 

The 1st thing I did was order a new radiator. I got mine from PRC direct. Its a 2111111 19x24 gm Double pass with oil cooler. I had them add -10 an fittings to the oil cooler mounts. I also had them add a 16" spal puller fan with a custom alluminum shroud. OHH AHH its pretty.

You can find PRC here. They were great to deal with and work fast. http://www.prchotrod.com/

 

So once I got the Radiator I made an L bracket style brace for the bottom of it to hold it in place. I mounted it to the frame rails. I used my trusty alluminum that I got for the surge tank brace.

Heres the bottom support brace.

post-11227-037025600 1281767142_thumb.jpg

I then made top braces for the rad using the same alluminum.

Heres the brace.

post-11227-040547900 1281767204_thumb.jpg

And here they both are in place

post-11227-036971700 1281767214_thumb.jpg

I then wanted to secure the bottom so I did the same thing. I made 2 braces that hold the bottom tight against the rad support.

Heres the bottom brace.

post-11227-052036000 1281767317_thumb.jpg

Heres a pic of it in place.

post-11227-039337700 1281767327_thumb.jpg

 

I will attatch all these braces using self tapping screws. I didnt fully secure them all yet because Im not actually going to mount it till I have the motor in place. I also bought some weather stripping from ace that I will put around the radiator support to prevent rubbing, noise, and create a better seal.

 

This weeks breakdown.

 

PRC radiator - $265.00

spal fan - $150.00

Custom shroud. - $100.00

bracket materials - already had them.

Ace hardware weather stripping - $5.00

Rad and brackets total - $520.00

Total so far. - $1711.00

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Sorry I havent been able to update much lately. I have builders block. Im not sure what to do next. I ordered an ezwiring harness and it should be here tomorrow. I plan to get all the lights and signals wired up. After that Im stuck. Im waiting on a large shipment of stuff from Mckinney Motorsports. Im also trying to figure out what to do about gauges. When I bought the car only the speedo worked. The wiring harness was fried so most likely that was the problem. I think Im going to change them all out anyway. I was thinking about just doing the essentials for now. Speedo, Tach, fuel gauge, oil press,and water temp. Help me out here guys. What should I do next? What Gauges should I do? I have seen a lot of threads on the speedhut and they look nice. They also dont seem that much more expensive than autometer. Please HELP me. You tell me what to do and I promise ill keep the thread going.

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Ahh. Finally got some work done today. The ezwiring harness arrived and I rewired the car. I got the brake lights, rear turn signals, headlights, front turn signals all prewired and working. Expect a write up and wiring guide in the near future. I am gonna write it all down when I solder all the connections. It feels good to have gotten something done on the car.

 

 

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I'm definitely going speedhut route. Since prices are around the same(as Autometer) might as well get what you want that works for you. I personally like the GPS ones with integrated turn signals. Maybe the reverse sweep for that 427 action ;) choices choices... :blink:

 

Since you are wiring from scratch, how has that ez wiringkit worked for you so far? Did it come with a fuse panel as well?

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Toasteroven,

The Ezwiring harness has been good so far. The instructions are terrible unless you are wiring a gm or ford. The wiring guides I found on here helped a lot but were a bit hard to read. I think once im finished and I post my diagram and pics it should hopefully make a lot of peoples lives a lot easier. I am almost complete with my soldering and heat shrinking. Ive got just the headlights and wipers left to solder. I should finally have time to finish it all on Friday. It does have nice wires and they are all marked very well. It does have a fuse box which was a bit bulky and ugly. I had a hard time deciding where to mount it. I have never used a painless but to me I think it cant be beat for half the price. More to come soon.

 

Ps woohoo over 1100 views. I feel like Im contributing to this site and Hopefully will be making peoples lives easier. You guys keep reading and Ill stay motivated. I got my long awaited shipment from Mckinney today.

post-11227-085766500 1282958909_thumb.jpg

post-11227-059899400 1282958937_thumb.jpg

post-11227-007947200 1282958964_thumb.jpg

post-11227-038624300 1282958984_thumb.jpg

 

I also got my motor mounts, driveshaft, throttle cable, and downpipe.

Edited by 5thgenluder

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minor update.

 

Rewiring the car.

 

So my factory harness was toast from water damage. The fuse box was melted and nothing worked except the speedo.

 

Step one choose a wiring harness. I went with an Ezwiring 21 circuit harness. It was much cheaper than a painless and rated very well. Harness can be found here. http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html

 

I followed a few guides I found here and managed to so far wire up the Headlights, turn signals, tail lights, brake lights and rear turn signals.

Here is a few pics. Not much to show here.

post-11227-081721400 1282959834_thumb.jpg

post-11227-020713100 1282959845_thumb.jpg

 

Here is my Diagram so far.

EZwiring Diagram 3.pdf

please let me know if you can see this file.

 

totals.

Ezwiring 21 circuit harness - $185.00

Solder heat shrink and loom - $30.00

Total for wiring = $215.00

Total so far = $1926.00

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I have been slacking lately. Im sorry for anyone thats following my post. Heres an update but there isnt much to say.

 

I got most of the parts I ordered from mckinney finally. The problem is they dont give you any instructions or even pics of how its supposed to go. I have an intercooler and a bunch of pipes and a bag of bolts and hoses. I guess ill be able to figure it out a bit better when I actually get the motor. I have hit a hard point in the car. I am stuck because in order to finish the wiring I need to put the dash back in, and in order to put the dash back in I need my gauges. I ordered a complete set from speedhut. Im waiting for those to come in. The other issue is almost everything else requires an engine. My plan is to order the engine when Im ready to just drop it in. That way I can take advantage of the 30 day startup warranty. Problem # 3. I am completely broke. I cant afford an engine right now and its getting close to winter here. I might just take my sweet a** time this winter get everything perfect and order the engine right before spring. No point in rushing to get the car ready to store for winter. So I think Im gonna spend some time cleaning up and restoring some more of the interior.

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Gauges are here.

post-11227-041550600 1285957259_thumb.jpg

I was going to restore the dash but when I looked under the dash cap it is far beyond repair. There are very large 1" thick cracks in the dash and they are filled with what looks like hot glue. I just got back from a vaca to mexico and hope to actually get some updates done in the next few weeks.

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Toasteroven,

The Ezwiring harness has been good so far. The instructions are terrible unless you are wiring a gm or ford. The wiring guides I found on here helped a lot but were a bit hard to read. I think once im finished and I post my diagram and pics it should hopefully make a lot of peoples lives a lot easier. I am almost complete with my soldering and heat shrinking. Ive got just the headlights and wipers left to solder. I should finally have time to finish it all on Friday. It does have nice wires and they are all marked very well. It does have a fuse box which was a bit bulky and ugly. I had a hard time deciding where to mount it. I have never used a painless but to me I think it cant be beat for half the price. More to come soon.

 

Ps woohoo over 1100 views. I feel like Im contributing to this site and Hopefully will be making peoples lives easier. You guys keep reading and Ill stay motivated. I got my long awaited shipment from Mckinney today.

post-11227-085766500 1282958909_thumb.jpg

post-11227-059899400 1282958937_thumb.jpg

post-11227-007947200 1282958964_thumb.jpg

post-11227-038624300 1282958984_thumb.jpg

 

I also got my motor mounts, driveshaft, throttle cable, and downpipe.

What type and where do you get your throttle cable. I'm getting down to the nitty gritty on my car and my old throttle came out of a RHD z31 and is very long!!! i literally have to coil it up before it goes over the motor. i want one that is just the right length.

 

thanks

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update:

 

wipers and tachometer

 

Ok I know I have really been slacking lately so here is a minor update.

 

I wired in the wiper motor. It took some time to figure out the dang wiring but Ive added it to my wiring diagram. Ive also cleaned it up a bit.

 

EZwiring Diagram wipers 3.pdf

 

Next up is mounting the Tacho in the factory pod and location. 1st thing I did was remove the stock gauge. Cut the back of the gauge pod out. I primered mine cause I hate stuff that appears old. I also primered and painted the bezel and insert with the same primer and paint as the engine bay. Next I put the gauge in the cup with a bit of finess and some put some cardboard around it to keep it centered and insure it doesnt move around. Then the easy part just put the gauge in the cup center it and put the trim ring and bezel back on. Here are some pics. I also had the pound the back of the pod out just a bit to get it to screw on nicely.

post-11227-000952500 1289277760_thumb.jpg

post-11227-094032400 1289277775_thumb.jpg

post-11227-099262600 1289277790_thumb.jpg

 

Thats it for now. Lets hope this nice weather stays.

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Spent a little time on the car. Got almost all of the factory sound deadening material off of the drivers side floor pan. Been using a heat gun, screw driver, scraper and wire wheel. Im trying to tidy up the steering wheel wiring so that its all set to be put back together. I wired in the horn and ran some wires for the radio. I have a semi big plan for the stereo so Im gonna get that all wired and documented. I temporarily mounted the battery back in to make sure everything was the way I want it. I have the speedo in its cup and 2 of the other gauges mountable. I will document and post most likely over thanksgiving.

 

Anyone notice any mistakes so far? Bad wiring? Bad fuel setup? Anything?

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Thanks for the kind words Pat1, Rs speed and Cristian. I know I have been slacking lately. All my free time has been spent drywalling a garage for a friend. Hopefully if the temperature gets above 30 tomorrow I can get some work done and some info posted.

Edited by 5thgenluder

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i am removing my fuel lines on my 240z (feed, return, and the other small one that goes from the drivers side to the rear under the fuel cap). do i need to keep this small one to the fuel cap?. i see you removed it but what if you have a full tank in the summer. i know my plane weeps like a mo on hot days.... but i dont know what this hose is for either...

Edited by boostedh23a1

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Boostedh23a.

You can not completely seal off the fuel system. The fuel tank won't even allow you till fill it all the way up on a hot day without a vent. My solution was to just vent my tank to the hose in the filler neck and then get a vented gas cap to allow the fumes and vapor to escape. I did not have my stock charcoal canister. If I did have it I probably would have retained that. I have also heard of people attaching a hose on the top to vent the tank and then wrapping it in a loop under the car to vent.

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ok, but just to be clear, i can ditch that hard line that runs from the front of the car (charcoal, number 9 in this pic)

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9503&d=1128801645

 

so i will endup with something like this, but with the pictured line running from the tank back to the charcoal canister blocked off.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9504&d=1128801645

Edited by boostedh23a1

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Update

 

Speedo in housing.

 

So I got a speedo from speedhut. It has the turn signal and bright indicators built in. It wasnt as easy as the Tach. I needed to make something to put pressure on the gauge to hold it tight against the factory ring. I went to the trusty home depot looking for a drain cap as I read in another thread. Maybe KTM? I didnt find what I saw in the other thread but I did find a 4" knock out test plug. I bought 2 of them and went on my way. I had to punch out one of them and cut a hole in the other. I also had to knotch the sides for the bolts in the housing. Heres a pic to help describe.

post-11227-046958000 1291189956_thumb.jpg

I atatched that to the other ring with electrical tape.

post-11227-056981300 1291190022_thumb.jpg

Then I put it all back together. I had to sand it to make it perfect but it was easy enough. Heres a pic of the back..

post-11227-008786300 1291190095_thumb.jpg

Here is the finished product from the front.

post-11227-007432700 1291190148_thumb.jpg

 

Rings were about $2.00 ( not even gonna add that up.)

 

Any questions?

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