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#21 Nelsonian

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 01:31 PM

Finally a little more progress on getting the rear subtle z 1/4 panels to fit the body. The body guy Stuart as well as myself only get a chance to come out to the car on most Saturdays to make a little bit of forward motion. He welded a new lip/support for the fiberglass 1/4 panel to rest against in an attempt to eliminate any flapping or movement the panel might make while at speed. He slightly pushed out the lower part where it connects to the dogleg upon my request. We will have to split down the waistline to fix the "bowing" effect it puts on the rest of the panel. He welded in a new extended wheel housing metal piece to fill in the gap as well. The whole underside will be undercoated when the time comes for it. The last thing he got around to, was removing the factory lead in the upper c pillars to eliminate a flex/stress area. When it is all done with welding, it will get blasted again by Bob and primed again to cover the metal.


Upon catching up with Bob Rector the blaster, owner of the property and gracious host,as he was working on his race car he informed me that he managed to get three warm up runs at Bonneville before something let go in his tranny. He ran a 155 warm up, 190mph and lastly 194mph with looots left to go when his tranny let go. He is working on the car now in preparation for El Mirage.

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#22 s30red240z

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 12:54 PM

Ready for hella flush style!
240z project
Datsun 1200 sold
Datsun 510 still waiting

#23 Nelsonian

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 07:06 PM

Some minor progress this weekend. We painted the rear body panel on the inside of the subtlez panel for complete coverage. We ground the area for applying the 3m adhesive and finally bonded the rear quarters on. We just barely got by with two tubes of the 3m adhesive and then started on adjusting the front passenger side. Lots of cutting/grinding will be needed to get the panel gaps acceptable. The last pictures show the hood and drivers side just resting and not bolted on. She is finally somewhat taking shape. Bob the property owner rolled up in his coupe with a 406, while I was there working today, so I snagged a few shots.

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#24 Nelsonian

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 06:36 PM

So it's been a while and time for a little update. A few months back I had my car moved from Bob's house to Stuart the body man's to receive more attention and keep it garaged. Upon my decisions as far as design and style were concerned (smoothed and blended in wherever possible), Stuart began to mold in the rear three piece imsa spoiler and re curve the joining arc to the existing side body line. He split seams down the sides and vertically up the rear to pull out the subtle z panels to split some of the difference in blending into the extra thickness of the spoiler. Expanding foam was used to fill in and support the newly made gaps. Fiber glassing the mat into shape then applying a kevlar mix of bondo, then a lot of sanding ensued. The rear spoiler had a funky split that actually did not line up well with the seam running down from the hatch and body. It was cut on an angle and was wider at the bottom and pinched at the top. A lot of attention has been spent on getting proper gaps on this build.

 

I  have eliminated the hatch lock as well as had the door handles filled in and eliminated, (just could not get the white Common Snapper car out of my head). I revisited the idea of venting the inner front fenders near the firewall and picked up a set of 03' Hyundai Tiburon side vents to have molded/beveled into the fenders. To me it makes a big difference by beveling an add on item (as if it was intended by the factory), rather than just plucking it on the outer side of the body. We have yet to cut the dimple die holes into the fenders and apply the vents as of yet. In order to eliminate a busy feeling of the vents and bmw side lights, I had Stuart move the lights forward and up onto the body line more. To me visually this felt less crowded or busy, and still carries out it's intended function and job.

I picked up a cheap, cracked 240sx dash to use as the test fitter, then will make the proper cuts to my mint one. Hope to have it covered in alcantara, or leather, have not decided as of yet. I found out from a local Porsche dealer that the 996/boxster gauges look analog, but are controlled via sensors in the hubs that feed to the computer to dictate speed. Pity because I absolutely love that cascading gauge layout, and think it would have fit amongst the 240sx binnacle.  I will most likely go the Auto meter route now instead. That's about it for now as we continue on with sanding the rear spoiler, and will start on the fender venting shortly. Here are some relevant pictures.  

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#25 Nelsonian

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 06:55 PM

A few pics of cars that have been of inspiration to me for different design aspects.

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#26 Sirpent

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 02:42 AM

Updates ???????????????????


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#27 Nelsonian

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Posted 09 May 2014 - 07:18 PM

Guess it's been quite awhile since any updates so here's what's been progressing with the rebuild. Sadly no major body work has occurred for the last year plus, as Stuart (body/paint guy) has been busy with other prior obligations. This down-time however, has afforded me with the option to square away financial obligations and to scratch off and pick up many parts from the "to get" list. The most current body work done (4 weeks ago) was to make the new Zedd findings rear lower panel fit the curvature of the car. After all the effort to cut and weld in the junk yard repair pieces, it was determined that the new panel was the way to go. A little more effort is in order to finish the rear panel and the focus will move to the engine bay/front, with adding tube bracing from frame rails to shock towers, to the firewall. I will also have a tube added to stiffen the outer portion of the wheel house, all very similar to the previously posted photos. I have been on the fence with committing to venting the high pressure zone and using the Hyundai finned vents. I finally decided to go forth with it and dimple die cut the inner rear fender area for air extraction. The vents will be blended into the fender to look as if intended from the factory, and a tube or tunnel will reside form the cut holes to the inside of the vents.

 

I have recently purchased the group buy Rota 17" x 9/9.5", Royal Hyper Black, staggered set of rims with intentions of running a 275 rear tire. I have not started researching the tire options yet, as the funds have diminished rather quickly with the current spending spree.  I wasn't sure if the subtle z flared kit would allow that size rear tire, so I picked up a rear set of MSA smooth ZG flares. I just quickly taped them on to the car and took some pics to get a quick visual. The position of them on the car is not set in stone. If I do go this route of blending them to the subtle z rears, I will add fiberglass from the lower dog leg portion to fill in what is visually missing and block a little bit more of the air hitting the front of the tire. The rear portion will blended in as well to keep with the visual continuity. I also picked up the Arizona Z car R200 mustache bar and uprights. I cleaned up most of the small knicks and machining marks with scotch bright and had these anodized in clear. I also purchased custom rear parking brake mounts for Wilwood p brake from TimO  and had them anodized red along with re anodizing the AZC hubs. I used a local company Anocote Metal Finishing Inc, in Mira Mar for the anodizing and am happy with the results. I ended up scrapping my plans to use the Australian Holden Falcon repro door mirrors from Rare Spares. I ended up going with repro Porsche 993, aero door mirrors from another local company Better Bodies Motorsports in Otay Mesa. These are fiberglass and not only have a clean sweeping profile, but will provide a much larger glass panel which will help with the flared rear end of the body.

 

Lastly, for the past 5-6 weeks of spare time, I have been rebuilding and customizing my dash to accept new Subaru BRZ vents. I came to the realization that It was going to be cost preventative to continue with the planned 240sx dash swap. I really, really wanted to try and use the Porsche 996/ boxster gauge cluster in the 240sx dash, but found out the Porsche gauges are controlled by wheel sensors and a dedicated computer, which = out of my budget. I used the well documented route with SEM bumper repair syringes and am happy with the outcome using this product. I firstly had the dash frame blasted, primed and painted by Bob Rector the blaster, using quality PPG paint. I then beveled the small cracks and filled in with the bumper repair. This stuff sands very nicely. After getting used to the product, and having fun actually doing something again for myself, I decided to build up sides for the BRZ vents, and filling in the cigarette lighter and hazard toggle to create a boost gauge pocket. I had some Autometer angled cups and cut them in half to slightly give a canted angle to the driver for the boost gauge. This will be changed in the future with a piece of aluminum machined pocket that allows the gauge to sit into it, in a similar fashion to the stock provision above it. When the dash is found to be sanded and smoothed enough to the upholsterers liking, it will receive black alcantara with French seem stitching, as inspired by Rovdriver's incredible dash.

 

Since I eliminated the cigarette lighter and hazard toggle, and needed a spot for one more gauge, I had to make a custom center console fuse panel. I sourced a series 1 fuse panel - ashtray thinking this would solve my problems, but quickly found out it was longer and more narrow than my 73' console. I patched up all small cracks as well as filled in the choke lever slot and cut out a slot for the Spal electric window switches. I over cut the window switch slot and after speaking with the upholsterer, will cut out a square panel from aluminum to fit the over sized hole. I'm thinking about moving the cigarette lighter to the passenger side up forward on the console. I plan to have the center console wrapped in alcantara just like the dash. 

 

The last purchase I am eagerly awaiting on was the custom Senza Pari intake manifold that I had him port out. Well lots of work still left to do on this build, but making some slow progress.

Here are some relevant pictures to go with all the jibber jabber above.        

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#28 310z

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Posted 09 May 2014 - 09:00 PM

Keep up the good work. Looks like the porting job went a little to far.


1972 240Z, bare metal resto-mod by Pettersen Motorworks Chico CA, headlight buckets molded into fenders, side markes shaved, Tokeco springs and Illuminas, MSA brake conversion front and rear Porterfield R4-S pads, 16x8-0-offset 3 piece BBS Magneisum Race Wheels 12.5 lbs, 225-50-16 Bridgestone Potenza RE71R, L-6 3100cc, Tripple Weber DCOE 45, 83 five speed, R-200 3.70, Eclispe CD 5000 Polk MOMO Carbon Series amp speakers


#29 Sirpent

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 03:04 AM

Good to see things are progressing ;-)

 

Those mirrors look the part, nice pick, and that dash looks a lot more organic with the mods to the vents, should look great once its all trimmed up.

 

Wish I was closer, like 16K miles closer, would be happy to do the welding on your centre console with that small error you made, but all in all, impressive ;-)

 

Cheers

 

John


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#30 Nelsonian

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 09:53 AM

Casey sent those pics of the manifold and patched up two small holes before sending it out. I am very pleased with dealing with Casey (Senza Pari). I originally sent in a non webbed, smoothed, manifold that I had someone local do the porting on, but it was determined by Casey that the runners were way to thin like tin, and bent way out of shape to bolt up. I had to scramble to find another webbed intake to get out to him. Though this was another costly lesson for me, it was something to learn from in this ongoing education as I see it. That's one bit of advise from my father (a professor of 50 years at NCSU), that sticks with me, never stop learning.

 

I'm trying to keep a black and brushed aluminum theme consistently flowing in the cabin. Will be using silver Autometer Pro Comp, ultralites, Momo Race steering wheel, Momo air race shift knob, etc...

I still have some smoothing to do on the new mounds and then focus will shift to the ignition clam shell. I have purchased some Chavant Y2-Klay from Fibreglast.com  (http://www.fibreglas...-clay-1122/clay). I want to create a mold of a single gauge pod on the top section of the clamshell, then fiberglass it to the top. I still need to get the angles correct with my new adjustable profile gauges I recently picked up from EastwoodAuto, (http://www.eastwood.com/adjustable-profile-gauges-5-10-15-inch.html). Looking forward to doing some clay modeling.


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#31 Nelsonian

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 12:29 PM

It's been awhile since the last update so here's whats been going on with the build. 

Body work wise, I have decided to nix the fender vents and am debating using the current hood with naca duct integrated due to engine change and work still needed to finish it, or a 280z hood. not much else has been done to the body as it rests in the garage waiting. I was at a stand still with the rear flares until I had the tires for the wheels to get an accurate width /height to form the plan of attack on that. If the subtle z rear wheel flares are too small, I have the smooth zg style to blend in. I finally got a set of Michelin Pilot sport ps2 in 265/40r/ 17" for the rear Rota's.  

 

The biggest change has been the engine choices which changed from the L28ET to a 2JZGTE with an Spec dual disc clutch. I scored a barely broken in (1700 mile) Marlin Crawler billet internal built R154 5spd transmission off of ebay with the Spec dual disc clutch and super light flywheel for a very good price. I then bought a low mileage 2jzgte from an Aristo at www.jdmenginepro.com  for a very reasonable price. It was brought to my mechanic friend Mark Brent who has gone through it and given it thumbs up. Next thing was to get all the parts to have a fresh even start and eliminate some of the known failure prone parts on this engine.

 

I bought Titan motorsports ported oem oil pump and adjustable cam gears, Powerhouse Racing's modified timing belt tensioner bracket and modified timing gear and billet pulleys,  Power enterprise kevlar timing belt, ARP head studs, new oem head gasket, o-rings,cam/main seals, crank pulley, water pump and re manufactured Denso starter, NGK irridium plugs and new bolt packages.

I am shooting for somewhere between 450 + rwhp and planned on using E-85 fuel as opposed to the garbage 91 octane that is here in California. I then purchased Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, Fore F-10 stainless steel fuel filter and Full function Engineering top feed fuel rail all from Real Street performance.

The next purchase will be Haltech PS2000 ecu and  Wiring Specialties custom harness and then I will have to save for the rest.

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Edited by Nelsonian, 21 March 2015 - 01:57 PM.

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#32 Nelsonian

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 12:46 PM

Seems I skipped over adding another batch of body modifications that I had done by Tho Chung of Time Machine Racecraft prior to all the recent engine changes or it was eliminated with the server crash.

I sent the car back to Tho and had him weld in chromoly tubing in the engine bay from the front frame rail to the shock tower to the firewall in order to combat flex in preparation for a nice engine upgrade. I also had him hard mount the Zraceproducts gas shock set up for the hood as opposed to the sandwich style it came as and fill in the "c pillar" holes.

I had Tho mill out a beveled plate for the Spal electric window buttons from a block of aluminum, as well as create new angled trim rings and build a new fuse panel for gauges. My plans are to have the now rebuilt and custom dash/ center console wrapped in alcantara micro suede. Last two pics show my inspiration for the alcantara wrapped dash and center console.  

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Edited by Nelsonian, 21 March 2015 - 02:02 PM.

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#33 Nelsonian

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 06:23 PM

Well it's been awhile since I had anything to add to this build, but managed to get a few more items from the long list of parts to get. I had to move my car from the body/paint guy's garage for a few months to allow him to finish up some small projects he had committed to long before I brought my car over. So back into my storage only garage the car went some two and a half months ago. Hopefully I will be bringing it back around the beginning of the new year. I managed to acquire the custom Wiring Specialties harness as well as the Haltech PS2000 and can't wait to eventually get the engine and harness into the car. Yury at Wiring Specialties was super informative as well as responsive to all my questions and made the purchase super smooth, very pleased with their services.  

I also bought the Works Bell steering wheel quick release here from member Theatriks which will give me one more way to slow down a would be thief. I then managed to score a super clean and straight '77 vented hood locally. Since I sold the L28ET and the 2JZGTE has the turbo on the passenger side, I  will be changing out the custom vented hood I had been working on for the new '77 vented one. Had I not gone 2J and kept the L28et, I was about to weld in the passenger side duct with beveled metal framework around it to complete the smooth "factory like look". I am patiently awaiting for the Dapper Lighting rear led V1 option to become available, and looking at buying a set of 264* cams from either BCrower, Kelford or HKS and springs and retainers. I am also lusting after the recently released Volk TE37v SL wheels in 17" with offsets to work on our cars as seen on the Fugu Z. Don't know if I could custom fit the subtle Z kit to accommodate these much less if 17 x 9.5" would fit up front without rubbing the inner frame at full lock, then there is the cost of these. Most of the other parts to get are big ticket items for my wallet so this build will just have to crawl along at it's current snails pace so I can save up for them. That's about it for now though. Pics included.

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#34 fyanrudger

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Posted 16 November 2015 - 08:18 AM

Car looks awesome...would love to see it on the road before 2017, haha.

 

I'm also interested in the Volks...I haven't been following closely. Have offsets and pricing been announced?



#35 Nelsonian

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Posted 16 November 2015 - 07:46 PM

'2017, such optimism, ha. Here is all I can find on the Volk 17" so far.

http://www.rayswheel...wheel=TE37VSL15


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#36 fyanrudger

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Posted 17 November 2015 - 07:57 AM

You know, just trying to make goals for you. 

 

Yeah, maybe I'll pass at $600 a piece with a guess as to whether they'll fit in the front. Shame there's not more options.



#37 Gixxer Squid

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Posted 03 December 2015 - 10:00 PM

You know, just trying to make goals for you. 

 

Yeah, maybe I'll pass at $600 a piece with a guess as to whether they'll fit in the front. Shame there's not more options.

I have them (TE37s) on my ride.  It took 4 months to get and was $3800.00  17x9 in front and 17x11 in rear.  I don't recall the exact offset we went with.  Beautiful lite wheels though.


Edited by Gixxer Squid, 03 December 2015 - 10:12 PM.


#38 Nelsonian

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 10:20 AM

I have them (TE37s) on my ride.  It took 4 months to get and was $3800.00  17x9 in front and 17x11 in rear.  I don't recall the exact offset we went with.  Beautiful lite wheels though.

I must see these, please attach a pic or two here. What size and make of tire are you running in the front?


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#39 Nelsonian

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Posted 18 November 2016 - 06:54 PM

It has been a loooong time since I had much to update on, but finally some new occurrences seem worthy of mentioning. Today was a very good day as two boxes full of Volk TE37 V  wheels finally made their way to me. I was originally told by the local Rays wheels dealer ACG Automotive, that they would only take one month as both staggered sizes were in stock way back on  August 12 when I made the initial purchase. Fast forward to today after two other bs predictions as to when I could finally go pick them up. Still waiting on some red spoke stickers from the SL model, but Needless to say I am super stoked!!  I have been constantly viewing Z-Ya's photos (included) of his "subtle z fronts and YZ" rears on his car as well as other rear YZ cars and am almost committed to cutting out my rear subtle z panels and upsizing with the YZ option. Once again I have done modifications only to re modify after the fact, but I really love the aggressive hips on those as it reminds me of older Porsches. I would like to run the widest high performance street tire I can stuff on a 10" wide rim with out it completely swallowing the rim to fill out the YZ space as best as possible.

I ended up getting new components, front hubs, hats from Arizona Z Car to convert from 4 to 5 lug.

 

I sold off my new, unused Rota RB's to another member here as I had finally decided on converting to 5 lug for more wheel options. I also sold off my great condition R200 clsd and new clutch packs to a local Hybridz member with a beautiful red 240Z on CCW's. I ended up scoring a professionally installed, OS Giken 2 way clsd set up as a 1.5 way, R200 diff for a good price and localy. It has been cleaned, painted and new parts installed and never run. I saved my finned cover that I had powder coated in a wheel silver for this. I am however strongly watching and pondering the Ford 8.8 IRS option closely as my power goals have risen recently.

I also just recently purchased the front Rocket Bunny fiberglass bumper from Greddy.com, but won't receive it until late January or early Febuary. I really like the pointed wedge shape of it and now I wont have to modify my series one front bumper and have it re-chromed.    

 

Future plans may include having the Rocket bunny bumper plastic chromed through vendor Vintage chrome on here. I may be selling my Marlin Crawler, fully built  R154 5spd trans, Spec twin disc clutch and sourcing a Nissan CD009 6 spd and going with either Maverick or Collins adaptor to match up to the 2JZ. Not 100% sure this is the route I will take as I already have those parts marked off the "to get list", but thinking it through currently.

I also need to turn focus back to the 2J and finish up sourcing the HKS 264* cams and Ferrea valves, guides, springs etc... Debating on stock size valves or 1mm oversize. My engine has been sitting at my engine guys house for the longest time and I would like to get the top end taken care of and reassemble the engine with all the other parts I have for it. I would also like to bring the car back to Tho Chung at Time Machine Racecraft to finish the front firewall stich welding and then focus on the rear areas that would benefit to complete the chassis stiffening. So many things to do and get and so little dollar to stretch which is most of the reason it seems like a never ending project.

 

On a non Datsun related topic, we have an biannual carne asada cookout at work with the summer one containing a bring what you got car show. Here are a few bad ass low riders that have a ton of details and intense paint as well. I love just about all things automobiles, Japanese, European, Murica, exoticcs, 4x4's rat rods and so on.

 

That's about it for now until I can raise some more funds to take care of the mentioned plans.

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Edited by Nelsonian, 18 November 2016 - 07:17 PM.

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#40 Nelsonian

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Posted 02 December 2016 - 05:54 PM

Today was a good day as a new box from Z1 Motorsports showed up with a new CD009 6 speed trans in it. Put some thought into it and decided to go with the Nissan 6 spd over the Toyota box. Now to look into short shifters and a re locator or cutting and welding the original. Time to sell the built R154 and Spec twin disc clutch/flywheel combo. 

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