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Clutch slave cylinder


olie05

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Over the last 5 years or so, I have replaced at 3 different clutch slave cylinders and I have had to replace the master cylinder once.

 

I just went down to autozone and claimed the warranty on the last one I purchased, but I'd like for my slave cylinder to last longer than 2 years for once.

 

What usually happens is the clutch fluid starts to show up by the boot of the slave cylinder, and the pedal feels spongy.

 

I have a centerforce stage 2 pressure plate, so it's stiffer than stock. If I buy an OEM cylinder from courtesy will I solve the problem, or do you guys with heavier P.P.s go to a different style slave cylinder? What are my options here?

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I have seen it recommended, either here or over on classiczcar, that they be taken apart and cleaned before installing, whether from Autozone or Schucks or wherever.

 

I took my last Wagner brand slave cylinder apart before installation and it had about 2 cc's of oil inside with what looked like honing residue in it. It looked like they just pulled it out of the final finishing machine at the factory, threw the piston and seals in and boxed it up. The one before that, that I did not clean, lasted about three weeks. This one is at about three months, after cleaning. The first one lasted nine months. The two that failed had both galled a spot in the cylinder, in the middle of stroke, causing the seal to fail.

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You may want to try a higher quality one. I'm not 100%, but maybe their chinese knock off slaves are made with inferior materials. Also, you may want to look at your clutch. I know that as a clutch wears out, it may become stiffer. If you happen to go this route, and the disk thickness is good. Blow the pressure plate out well with compressed air. Sometimes clutch facing dust can bind the mechanism. FYI, it's generally standard that a clutch disk will measure about .308 thick. That's with all the marcel squished down (the spring between the facings).

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Did you stick your finger in there and see if it comes out with fine gray grit on it?

 

I noticed when I was working on mine that the rod from the fork to the slave cylinder is not in-line with the bore of the cylinder. Close but not perfect. So there is a side load on the piston in the bore, which probably led to the galling. The inexpensive cylinders probably are made of less durable materials.

 

OEM if mine fails again within the next couple of years. I've read that they last longer. Failing slave cylinder stories are all over the internet.

 

I wonder if having the cylinder chromed would help. Might be cheaper than new.

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