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BLOZ UP


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Replaced alternator. Still wasn't charging. Check fuses (with a meter this time), and my 80A alternator fuse was blown. But not immediately visible. The end cap had seperated from the center fuse portion. It was only visible at a certain angle. Yep. New alternator was somewhat of a waste.

 

Went to a meet on Wednesday, and made it there and back without any issues. Oh, who am I kidding. It was lean the whole time. So, I richened it up 20% for the way back. Drove much better, could hit 1-2psi without it cutting out like before, but still lean so I kept out of it. Oh, and then my AFRs pegged out lean shortly after starting the return trip. Sensor could use a calibration, it came back a couple times very briefly.

 

But wait, there's more. I thought I wasn't using the radio circuit, which I used for the pump relay's relay's relay. Oops, my main Speedhut gauges were using it, so no tach or speedo. Also, my inverter was plugging in to it as well. So couldn't charge my laptop. Good thing the battery lasted the whole round trip for logging.

 

I did pick up the Bosch 044, and I got fittings for it. It should fit with room to spare, as the current pump is somewhat close to the rear end, and the inlet is also somewhat closer to the half shaft. It flows like 50% of what my current pump does, is not brushless, and will hopefully "Just Work" so I can stop this no pump during cranking priming bullshit.

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Here's the new pump:

 

20150809_152541_zpseoyjskpc.jpg

 

 

Installation was easy:

 

20150809_174147_zpslyux4ld6.jpg

 

Didn't drain the tank, so that saved a bunch of time. Just pushed the pump feed line up higher than the tank and luckily there wasn't enough left for a siphon.

 

Removed all the janky relay and wiring for the brushless Fuelab pump. Fixed my radio circuit that I used for it, and fixed my cranking pulsewidths. Started right up! Pump is very quiet, relative to the Fuelab and Aeromotive pumps. I cannot hear it from inside the car when the engine is on.

 

However, I thought my speedometer and tachometer gauges would work with the radio circuit repaired, but they don't. And my wideband was working during warmup but quit right before going for a test drive. So I guess my gauges (the 6 other gauges in my radio bezel and center gauge spots all work fine) are powered some other way. Will have to dissassemble and figure it out (and record it somewhere since I've got a lot of these wiring tweaks but my recollection is approaching zero).

 

So, for my records, some things to fix:

  • Speedometer, tach gauges
  • Bleed clutch
  • Bleed brakes (and fix reservoir?)
  • Remove RCAs so I can fix my 15" wheels.
  • Heat wrap wiring on frame rail(s)
  • Cleanup wiring on frame rails, engine bay
  • Fix exhaust clamp near rear end
  • Fix/replace coolant overflow
  • Add PCV system w/catch can
  • Fix small oil leak.
  • Top off transmission fluid
  • Rebuild LSD and replace stock one
  • Put in new bushings
Edited by BLOZ UP
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Fixed the speedometer and tach. Was a blown fuse. Not sure how it blew, perhaps from wiring in the previous fuel pump shenanigans.

 

  • Speedometer, tach gauges
  • Wire in LC-1 LED and button permanently
  • Clean up ECU area
  • Wire in knock sensor
  • Bleed clutch
  • Bleed brakes (and fix reservoir?)
  • Remove RCAs so I can put on my 15" wheels. (Need 12mm x 1.25 x 30mm bolts)
  • Heat wrap wiring on frame rail(s)
  • Cleanup wiring on frame rails, engine bay
  • Fix exhaust clamp near rear end
  • Fix/replace coolant overflow
  • Add PCV system w/catch can
  • Fix small oil leak.
  • Top off transmission fluid
  • Rebuild LSD and replace stock one
  • Put in new bushings
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  • 1 month later...

Fixed a fuel leak, was a loose hose that was leaking onto the pump inlet, and dripping right next to a AN connection, making me think that the pump inlet AN hose was leaking which was really weird. Zip tied the hose and cleaned up the routing a bit.

 

Cleaned up the engine bay a tad. Got a laptop that works with my USB Serial adapter. Found out my O2 sensor was throwing error code 8 (which, IIRC, I've had before). Just ordered a replacement and installed it. AFR works now!

 

Retuned VE table a little as I set it (IIRC) 20% richer when my O2 went AWOL. Which was probably a tad too liberal a change (should have done 5-10% max). Leaned out WUE and crank PW%.

 

Ready for dyno? Think I'll do an oil and plug change beforehand.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got around to replacing the stock overflow tank that was ziptied to the front grill:

 

20151004_201317_zpsx2gucfoe.jpg

 

That's some .125" wall 3" piping with .0625" (or so) sheet (grinded round since I don't have a plasma cutter or decent bandsaw), drilled for an eBay cap and nipple. Then I drilled out the cap for a vent. There's a hose on the inside that connects the nipple to right next to the bottom. Welds could be better, but I haven't welded in months, so it could be worse.

 

Here it is de-polished (which is probably a mistake) and mounted.

20151006_193443_zps9m1tknvh.jpg

 

20151006_193431_zpstoratj2k.jpg

 

And I also mounted and connected my horns back up. Finally.

 

20151006_200634_zpsdx2vbqfn.jpg

 

 

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Photobucket appears to be freaking out.

 

There's a night autocross next weekend, last of the season. I plan on being there. Still need to remove the bump steer spacer to fit the front slicks, but I may just keep them in (such a pain to drive without them) and just run slicks on the rear.

 

Also need to top off the transmission fluid...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Went to another autocross. More importantly, I made it there, raced, and made it back home--without calling a tow truck! Fun times.

 

 

 

I have a couple other runs, but nothing really exciting happens. First time with my slicks--they are a lot more predictable than streets it feels. A lot less lift-off oversteer as well.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

insane amount of work dude.

 

Thanks. It has been.

 

I attempted to fix an oil leak from a pinhole leak from the weld on my oil pump (god what a terrible idea that was--welding on the oil pump without a pressure test afterwards). It has slowed, but is still there. Otherwise it runs aight.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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Finally dyno'd this thing. Tried to hit 8psi (spring pressure), 12psi and 16psi, but only 8psi and under is tuned well. I was able to get to 10psi in the "3" runs I was allowed.

 

310 HP / 330 Ft.-lbs at 8 psi

360 HP / 375 Ft.-lbs at 10 psi

 

20160327_132826_zpswwiqq8z4.jpg

 

20160327_140724_zpsm4eyefem.jpg

 

Have some video I'm working on but it isn't that exciting.

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  • 5 months later...

Haven't done much. Updated to the latest firmware (MSExtra 3.4.2), as mine was quite old. I used TunerStudios firmware upgrade utility which seemed to work well despite one blank screen in the wizard. Tuned it a bit. Almost got some dyno time setup but decided to wait until it isn't so hot. So maybe later this month or October.

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  • 1 month later...

Made the 400HP club.

 

 

Had problems getting the boost up to 16psi like I wanted, but got 12psi-14psi tuned close enough. Think I may have left some accel enrichment on or something. Would be nice to have a dyno hold the RPMs steadier so I don't have to keep track of so much while tuning.

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  • 1 year later...

Uh... haven't been here in a while.

Got rid of the Sparco seat that didn't fit and the harness. Put stock one back in. Going to get a couple Corbeau Classic Buckets at some point.

Got new wheels for it. Epsilon Mesh 3 piece. 16x7.5" all around, got for a good deal I think. Going to swap my 225/50s on to them, but need a trailer or truck to haul all 8 wheels to the shop to get them swapped. Glad I finally am getting rid of the XXRs. They are OK except for the weight, and I've heard of them (not necessarily this model but the dual bolt pattern ones) breaking during autocrosses. I've had them on the car for about 7 years now, put them on soon after getting the car, on a student's budget so it was long passed time. Anyway this is a long ass post about wheels so here's a photo:

d3Rr0oh.jpg

Thinking about redoing the centers in black. Or maybe red. But don't want a ketchup-mustard car. Probably black. And as much as I dislike chrome, it seems to work well for the barrels against the window trim.

In other news I put a dent in one of the fenders after having to break into the garage <_<. I put in a steel door though so at least that can't happen again. I'll go for a window next time.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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  • 10 months later...

Got the tires swapped on the new wheels. Drove it to work the other day. Ran fine, but my stupid oil filter adapter (JB) welds leak. After I finish the Z32 I think I'll pull the engine on this.

 

But I also got a '85 Chevy truck that I'm liking a lot so I'm also fixing that one up a bit.

 

See ya next year!

 

0lo27Bl.jpg

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Yeah, but the steering wheel shakes quite severely at speed. Just really feel like the car is not where I want it. I love the body -- ain't selling it. But I hate the drivetrain and suspension.

 

I also hate driving it in NJ traffic. In the truck everyone stays far away.

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  • 1 year later...

Damn, missed it by one day.

 

Moved to to Baton Rouge, Louisiana.

 

Here it is at my first Cars & Coffee. I realized I am now in LA, with NJ plates, and TX stickers since I never removed the reg/insp. sticker when I moved to NJ. Car has been with me a while. And as much as I don't like the VG that's in it ... it's been running for like 7 years without ... too many issues. None serious.

 

 

69702043_3145460095495887_1020532260148871168_n.jpg

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