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seattlejester's 1971 240Z


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#1 seattlejester

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 10:04 PM

Hey folks,

I realized posting in the member's build section wouldn't allow me to really ask questions, so I've posted my build here as well.

I'm currently building a 1971 240Z. My plan is to get rid of all the rust, renew the suspension (get the car low, and stiff), add some zg flares (still in consideration), find some nice gap fitting wheels, and put on a new coat of paint or perhaps wrap it in vinyl. This car will hopefully become my daily driver, but until I can get it running reliably, it will be taking on grocery runs, and the occasional track days to shake out all the bugs. I have a time limit of about 4-5 months left to get the car prepped for the weather and moving on it's own power.

Stage 1: Strip
Stage 2: Restore
Stage 3: Mock-up
Stage 4: Primer, Underliner, Paint
Stage 5: Reinstall

The day I bought the car
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I bought the car about 3-4 weeks ago, and only been working on it over the weekends. Right now I'm in the process of Stage 1.
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These are some previous pics, we've now stripped out most of the interior, taken off the doors, taken off the hatch, and pulled the blown engine

Of course things don't always go according to plan, as good deals pop up here and there, I start amassing the parts for Stage 3, far ahead of time.
Posted Image
The L28E out of a '79ZX, the bandaid engine to get the car rolling before a more serious engine is thrown in. Picking up an N42 head this weekend, and recycling my SU carbs from the blown L24.
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:)

And on the sadder part of things, some things really don't go according to plan, including a fully rusted through frame rail (Pics to come). The jack stand started bending right into it!
I've been looking at baddog replacement frame rails, but the site hasn't been updated in 4 years. Hopefully the guy is still up and running?

The next stage will be to buy or borrow a media blaster setup (to get rid of rust and the primer) and a flux/mig welder (to cut out and replace the frame rail and repair any non salvageable areas). Surprisingly, the car has solid floor pans, and almost no rust through spots, other than the entire frame rail and a pin hole in the floor pan, despite having lived the last few years of it's life in the rainy city.

If anyone has any advice I'd love to hear it! And if anyone has Z parts in the seattle area I am going to have to get in touch with you for some replacements :)

Edited by seattlejester, 18 October 2010 - 10:10 PM.


#2 cockerstar

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 10:26 PM

Did you pick up that rollbar from craigslist?
It's been reposted a few times :)

John was making the rails still last time I talked to him back in June. Shoot him an email at john@baddogparts.com.

Why are you going with the n42?
If it's a temp motor just toss the carbs on the p79 and run her as-is!
Ryan | '71 240z | L24, flat tops, e31, 4-screw su's, 6-2-1 header, Greddy organic clutch, close ratio 5-speed | r200 CLSD waiting to be installed

Just a tip for serious head, check out Braap, an admin, he won't let you down ;)


In nome de padre, et fili, et sancte spirate

"If you cannot convince them, confuse them." --Harry S Truman

#3 seattlejester

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 11:35 PM

Did you pick up that rollbar from craigslist?
It's been reposted a few times :)

John was making the rails still last time I talked to him back in June. Shoot him an email at john@baddogparts.com.

Why are you going with the n42?
If it's a temp motor just toss the carbs on the p79 and run her as-is!


Yup good old craigslist. For that price I couldn't pass it up! He said he didn't get any offers, and when he reposted it, he got 10 inquiries. I see I have some local craigslist competition, haha.

N42 because my block came with an N47 with round ports and an injection manifold without injectors or any of the electronics. The gentleman I spoke with said I could have it for free :) and it will take both the SU carbs and square port aftermarket headers that came on the Blown L24. And if I read correctly the N42 requires no modifications? Where as adapting an E31 head would require notching the pistons?

I'd really love to just hear her breathe. I'm tempted to jump the gun and throw an engine in just so I can drive her around the block!

That's good news to hear about the frame rails, I'll have to get in touch with John about the replacements soon.

Edited by seattlejester, 18 October 2010 - 11:42 PM.


#4 seattlejester

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Posted 27 October 2010 - 02:42 PM

Well, I decided to take some pictures of the progress, and decided while I'm there to start taking a hammer to the spots I suspected of rust, I was give a very good hint by a rebuilder, that if I hit somewhere I suspect of rust the under liner or paint just starts flying off, i'm looking at a heavily rust infested spot.

So I went at it. Under the battery tray (yup), the rusted passenger frame rail (duh), left rocker panel (yup), right rocker panel (yup), right door jam (yup), passenger seat mounts (yup), and then it hit me, most of the rust was on the right side of the car! So I started frantically searching for signs of damage, and I remembered the right and door didn't line up quite right. Low and behold, the actual passenger side frame of the car (the beam that runs along the bottom of the door with the holes in it) had been pushed in about and inch in the middle and about 3 inches up in the front, probably years ago, cracking the protective coatings and exposing the right side components to water far before the left side.

Not sure what to do at this point. Welding in new panels and the frame rail seems like it would be easy enough, but the actual unibody? Where would I even source a beam like that? I shall upload pics when I stop moping around.

#5 JMortensen

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Posted 27 October 2010 - 03:15 PM

Your pics aren't coming through. You can buy the rocker panel from Tabco if I recall. They sell patches for most of the common rust spots on the Z.

I have a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust and MSA 6-1 header that I'd like to offload if you're interested. Comes with a Super Turbo muffler, but it's pretty beat, so I'll thrown in a new Ultra Flo that I purchased to replace it with if you're interested. Whatever you do it's going to need a new exhaust tip. Pretty rusty. $200 for header and complete exhaust with the new muffler if you want it. You can hear what it used to sound like here:
http://www.classiczc...php?photo=15578

Edited by JMortensen, 27 October 2010 - 03:15 PM.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#6 seattlejester

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Posted 27 October 2010 - 06:06 PM

Man you are just throwing that car around! I shall have to think about it, 200 for the headers alone would be a very good deal, but that's one of those things that are down the road I'll upload pics in a little bit.


Edited by seattlejester, 26 December 2013 - 08:03 PM.


#7 seattlejester

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Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:25 PM

DSCN1543.jpg
DSCN1544.jpg

Notice the right side, and use the left side as a comparison. Weird part is, the outside looks really square.

And I guess I can't edit my first post so here's the other progress shots.
DSCN1542.jpg
Pulled engine
DSCN1540.jpg
the "new" head, turns out the rust just comes off with some very light rubbing smile.gif
DSCN1539.jpg
Almost gutted!
DSCN1541.jpg
New tools, compressor, some bulk co2 tanks, soda blaster, and more! Giving one of the bulk co2 tanks in exchange for use of some finer tools, like a mig welder for the body panels. Still have to buy a flux welder for the bigger frame rails, and a sand blaster for the rust.


Edited by seattlejester, 26 December 2013 - 08:04 PM.


#8 JMortensen

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Posted 27 October 2010 - 10:15 PM

The exhaust has been sitting here for quite a while, so I don't think it's going anywhere anytime soon. If I still have it when you're ready you're welcome to it. I've been trying to find a local buyer...

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#9 seattlejester

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Posted 27 October 2010 - 10:58 PM

I see. Any chance you are willing to go lower to get rid of it :lol:

Yes I would like to pick it up, I just really don't have that kind of money right now. But after the welder, sand blaster, and frame rail, I think I can put my budget towards the engine and components (maybe a month or two?). My current exhaust is pretty bad, it is an after market 2.5, but the entire exhaust was welded together so one piece from the engine, we had to cut it off to remove the engine. This is the one that comes with the bolt on exhaust right? Not a slip on?

#10 JMortensen

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Posted 28 October 2010 - 08:37 AM

It has a bolt on flange between the header and the rest of the exhaust. In my 70 I could pull the trans without taking the exhaust off, but it was tight. The best thing about this system is that it is TIGHT to the bottom of the car. I'm not going to give it away because I need money for my project, but make me an offer and we'll see if we can't get it done.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#11 seattlejester

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Posted 28 October 2010 - 11:36 AM

Got ya, I'll run some numbers and see what I have. Would it be better to take this to PM's? Not sure what the rules are regarding dealing in threads here.

What suspension are you running? You're car looks amazingly neutral through the corners!

Edited by seattlejester, 28 October 2010 - 11:37 AM.


#12 JMortensen

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Posted 28 October 2010 - 12:01 PM

I'll PM you and give you the suspension specs that were on the car back then.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#13 seattlejester

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 01:20 PM

Small update is in order I suppose. Instead of working on the car over break I decided to work my two jobs to build up funds so I can work through the quarter. My schedule is thankfully light and the weather is getting warmer so hopefully much more progress will occur. I just received a "new" camera that has been unused for a few years so hopefully pics will be pack up soon.

During break I went through a rough period where I wasn't sure what i was going to do. It felt like I chewed off more than I could afford and the problems just kept adding up. After a good honest talk with myself I realized right now as a student (albeit an old one) I shouldn't be aiming for a full blown restoration. Instead I should be putting the car back together repairing what is necessary and getting another z on the road.

I got back in touch with a few friends and associates who offered much needed help, but as I am amazingly anal I decided the chassis is something I need to take care of my self.

Since the last update I picked up a sand blaster and soda blaster and a second compressor to help compensate for the flow. But I've found a die grinder with a poly rust removing bit is much easier to use albeit time consuming. Anyone have suggestions on what to use to remove large portions of paint?

Sometime this week I will be picking up a little 90 amp flux welder for some heavier tack welding i.e. the frame rails and the replacement panels. Hopefully after tacking I will be able to borrow a mig and complete the panel installations. My question that I have yet to answer is what replacement should I use for the frame rails? I've seen people use rectangular steel tubing which I feel very partial to but am unsure on thickness or size. 18 gauge is what I believe I will be using for the replacement floors which I am beginning to believe will be flat panels.

I pulled the entire wiring harness from the car in one piece and removed the tar coating from the interior. (Air chisel was a blessing for this :))

Started to remove the headliner and wind shield.

Started stripping the engine bay. Currently stopped at the steel lines that go around the car. Do people save these? Or do they just replace them?

Picked up a test set of the wheels that will get the car around town 16x8 +0 xxr 522 and they look great!

Hopefully I'm not boring you folk and look for some welding next week :D

#14 Pharaohabq

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 09:55 AM

Take another look at the Bad dog fram rails, I think those should be fine for replacing yours. Aside from that, you can wrap your engine compartment rails in box or angle steel. Unless you're swapping in a tougher engine, you probably don't need to do much more than that. The Cross member area you said had rusted, can be repaired with angle or even just a plate.

As for the tubing, I'm reusing my fuel lines, but replacing the brake lines, since mine aren't in very good shape. Definitely going to do the brake upgrade and put in stainless braided lines to the wheels.

As for removing larger painted areas, a good DA sander will do well. That area in the right where it was pushed in, Either I wouldn't worry about it, or you could try to hammer ot out a bit. The floor area, put a couple 2x4's on a jack under the dent, then hammer if flat from the top. the side, you'll just have to push it out. a bottle jack and some more 2x4's might work for that too, though if they repaired the outside, you could mess that up.

Phar

#15 seattlejester

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:08 AM

Gotcha, thanks for the answers!

I wish I had taken a picture of the fender and door before I removed them, the damage doesn't bother me much other than the fact the fender and door don't line up, as it is now the top of the door (where it meets the front fender) is about an inch under where the fender is. I still haven't quite figured out why since that is where the front windshield is, and the front windshield seats fine. But I'll be taking another trip to the hardware store so we'll see what I walk out with smile.gif


Edited by seattlejester, 26 December 2013 - 08:04 PM.


#16 Pharaohabq

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 07:41 AM

lets see some closer pictures of that right side damaged area. both inside outside, and underneath. maybe we can figure how they repaired it, n see what you'll have to do to pull it straight. The 2x4's and bottle jack in the passenger footwell would certainly work to push it out, but I'm just wondering what it'll do to the outside.

#17 seattlejester

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 01:10 PM

Will do good sir, I've been looking for a good day to work on the car, and it's been cold and rainy all week what a surprise lol.

Picked up my little welder and more tools, hopefully i'll be able to remove the transmission and take more pictures of the problem areas.

Going to meet a gent today about picking up a 300zx 3.9 r200 differential and perhaps halfshafts. He said it would fit a 280zx so I'm hoping that it has turbo cv axles :), that puts my differential count at 4, 1x 3.345 r180, 1x 3.545 r200, 1x mystery r200, and 1x 3.9 r200.

#18 ArchetypeDatsun

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 07:00 PM

if that R200 is going in an early Z i believe you need a mustache bar to do the conversion, at least i know because my buddy john did it to his 240z.

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#19 seattlejester

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 10:56 PM

I got scared of what I may need and what I may not so I took everything that unbolted from the donor car. I wanted to go back for more but unfortunately it looks like someone bought the car O.o

Still not 100% sure on how it will go, but I have everything minus the 280z 27 spine stub axles, which were impossible to remove with hand tools.

And sadly no 3.9 for this car, but I got a free turbo and a T-5 in parts smile.gif

Edit: Might as well post what i have and hope someone stops in and informs me what I lack, and what combo will work. I've done a bit of reading, but in the end I'd like to hear it from a forum member.

L28E from a '79ZX, I have a complete L24E with flattop carbs and all the accessories. Planning on upgrading the fuel pump to an electric 4-8 psi, the alternator from the zx, the starter from the zx, the crank pulley from the L24, and use an electric standalone fan system for the radiator. <-I've seen people use some kind of plate to replace where their old clutch fans were mounted, any info?

5 speed transmission from a '79ZX with the engine to tranny side supports, ZX transmission mount, and zx drive shaft. <-do I need to use the 240 drive shaft or the zx drive shaft?

R200 differential from a 280Z 2x2 with half shafts, mustache bar, and quite a few of the mounting parts. <-what parts should I be cleaning up for the mounting other than the mustache bar?


Edited by seattlejester, 26 December 2013 - 08:05 PM.


#20 Kali

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Posted 14 January 2011 - 02:48 PM

Heard you were looking for spare parts almost done with and engine swap to my L28ET but i still have the old engine, and a few parts from the engine package i bought out of portland. Also if you really hurting there a yard out in Eugene, OR that does nothing but Z's from 1970 to 1983. Check it out on CL.




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