Devil_S30 Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Ahh it was at night, when you do get a ride prepare yourself haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 Congrats! I suffer from not starting engine before too even though, stock condition. I thought my issue is SU carb issue and I rebuilt carb by myself watching Z theraphy video, but starting issue is not solved. Then rebuilt dizzy, replace spark plug, wire, coil, nothing help. Start reading FSM, I saw valve adjustment. I never open valve cover before and follow the step to adjust valve. Boom! Engine ignite! I'm glad my experience bit help you. Good luck for finishing up your project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 any updates?? have you looked at them rocker arms and valve tappets?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 I actually checked last night. It still seems like quite a few of them are still not getting enough tappet to rocker clearance. A few have gained a little bit a little clearance though so hopefully the assembly lube is breaking apart if that is the problem. Ill eventually go back and see if i can move the tight clearance tappets or rocker onto another lobe with adjustment left after some other. If all else fails and the car makes no power etc, i am actually thinking of buying an assembled head from Datsun parts llc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I have a good head, cam, rockers for ya at a good price. I "think" you might have a cam tower issue. I can drop by next week end and have another go at it. I have a bunch-o-parts just lying around, and they could use a good home. I should hit-up Devils30 and drop by sometime. Have a Z fest!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Sure that would be great, lets push it to next week or so if you don't mind. I want to try and get some tires and some of the other work figured out a bit so only the engine will be left! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 So after some thinking, I realized that the cam had the block on it which I remembered was from the E31. So last night I pulled the cam and cam towers. Swapped the cam from the N42 in, and reordered the cam towers. That didn't fix the adjustment problem, still only had correct gap on cylinder 1 and 5, all the other ones were out of spec. After some thinking I realized that shaving the lock nut would give me a little more adjustment. After pulling the rockers off again and shaving some of the nuts, cleaning with oil and reassembling the gap is perfect on all the cylinders . So after dropping money on some new falken tires, I decided I would try and go for the first test drive, unfortunately car won't engage gear . Hopefully I just need a good clutch bleed. Will have to wait for a friend to help bleed the clutch, all my gauges are on order, will have to install the windshield, and have to trace an electrical drain, but almost there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 No need for a friend to bleed the clutch, just gravity bleed. It's worked well for me. Also, make sure your clutch master cylinder is adjusted per the FSM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Or do what I did after doing 5 different brake bleed jobs, get a mityvac! Worth every penny. The only issue I have bleeding now is air entering at the threads of the bleed valve, which is easily fixed with some teflon tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 What? COME PICK ME UP, well it'd be a Z fest + a random G haha How's the Z coming along Seattlejester? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 (edited) Good news, the engine starts much much easier now. I think having compression in more than 2 cylinders is very helpful, haha. Gollum: Actually I tried using my vacuum bleeder and it just didn't give me the same confidence as using a clear tubing with classic bleeding method, had a whole episode with it when I was bleeding my brakes lol. Leon: potentially very very good advice. I was just about to post regarding my problem and I think you might have just solved it! So my friend just came over and we bled the system, turns out it was still pretty well bled from the last time, no bubbles I could see. Tried getting the car to engage in reverse to pull out of the garage and no dice. Just gear grind. To check the tranny and the rest of the driveline was good I had the rear wheels off the ground, and the car will start in both reverse and forward gears, but the clutch doesn't do anything wheels keep spinning even with clutch fully depressed. So either the clutch slave isn't engaging far enough, or the master cylinder is in bad shape. But the bleed showed fluid being pushed, so it looks like I'm possibly out of adjustment? I'll have to go look through the fsm. Austin: We'll have to do that sometime, maybe this weekend, I took work off so I have all day . For the picture deprived: The 15's seem a little too small, but we'll see. Still have to lower the car a bit. Edited November 13, 2012 by seattlejester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 If you have mixed drive train parts z/zx, you might have the wrong throw bearing distance. To check this, remove the slave cylinder and push rod. Then check to see how far the throw bearing linkage moves by hand. If it moves (slop/gap) more than 1/4 inch with out resistance, then you need to get the correct size throw bearing. I did this once by accident, everything seemed to work, but I had no proper clutch enguagement. There is (?) 3 different lengths to the throw bearing and this can cause the clutch system to seem that it works correct, but the throw is too short!! I cant remember if its the throw bearing OR the throw bearing collar OR bolth, sorry I never did take notes on this, I just had the correct parts laying around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 If you have mixed drive train parts z/zx, you might have the wrong throw bearing distance. To check this, remove the slave cylinder and push rod. Then check to see how far the throw bearing linkage moves by hand. If it moves (slop/gap) more than 1/4 inch with out resistance, then you need to get the correct size throw bearing. I did this once by accident, everything seemed to work, but I had no proper clutch enguagement. There is (?) 3 different lengths to the throw bearing and this can cause the clutch system to seem that it works correct, but the throw is too short!! I cant remember if its the throw bearing OR the throw bearing collar OR bolth, sorry I never did take notes on this, I just had the correct parts laying around... That's a good point, and it's the collars that are different. A 280Z collar goes with a 280 pressure plate, etc. FWIW, I have read that most if not all stock-replacement clutches are now sold with 280Z-style pressure plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Hmm, the tranny and engine are from the same 79 280zx, but the clutch and pressure plate are new....will report later tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 So, she moves :D :D As Leon suggested, the problem was with the adjustment of the clutch master. The problem stems from the stupid clevis pivot brackets I bought a while back. The culprit in question. When I sent my brake booster in they failed to return the stock clevis bracket, frankly the boot was torn and I just didn't give the loss of the clevis bracket much thought. I taped up the boot and just let it sit. When I put the brake system together I found the replacement clevis was too short for the brake (for those of you who know, the clevis pivot is located much further inboard of the pedal for the brake pedal). So I took the one off the clutch master so my brakes would work, and replaced the one for the clutch master with the new brackets. Turns out that it was too short for the clutch, pressing the pedal would just pivot the actuating rod slightly and depress it slightly, even when maxing out the actuator rod. So other than the fact each one cost 13$ each, they were quite pretty much useless. So to test out my theory I made my own which was quite a bit longer. Ugly but functional! And now she moves, unfortunately only a little bit since my tachometer doesn't read anything. Stalled trying to guess my engagement point lol. Things left to address before the first drive, battery tray/clamp, tying down loose wires and vent lines, installing tach, and a slow start. I have to crank it for a good 45 seconds or so before I get a start, but once it start it will start right back up if I stall or turn the car off. So cold start problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Awesome, you're almost there! Remind me, EFI or carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Stock 72 carbs on n42 block and head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Have you checked float levels? Does your cold start system work ("choke")? If the float bowls are empty and fuel lines dry, it'll take some time for the mechanical pump to prime. Once the car is running, check for vacuum leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 23, 2012 Author Share Posted November 23, 2012 (edited) I have yet to mess with the float levels, and I have an electric pump . My synchrometer sk arrived a few day ago, so I got my carbs balanced. And with the addition of some carb dampening oil, the start procedure takes about 10-20 seconds. I imagine with the chokes in place that should really alleviate my start issues. I asked the autoparts store and they were perplexed by my request for straight 20wt oil. Went to the hardware store and voila Now that I have my tach installed and am starting on my instrument panel and accessories, I decided the speedo should be addressed. My options were either a GPS speedo, use my phone, or to try and get the stock gauge working. I remember looking up the correct cog a while back for ~28$. Upon looking back it now runs 61$ O.o, with a 3 month shipping period. A quick look through my local junkyard and I found a 1986 200sx, which by all accounts should have the correct cog, based off of wikipedia, datsunzgarage, and other online sources. You can imagine my surprise when I pulled this: Now that does not look like a red cog at all! According to the color chart, the white cog should be a 3.9 which never came on the 200sx, and counting the teeth tells me it is a purple cog with 21 teeth! Or am I really confused and suppose to be counting the spaces in between the teeth? Very confused at this point. I'll have to consider my other options soon if this does not pan out. Edited November 23, 2012 by seattlejester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Called the local nissan dealership, they said they could get the correct part in about a week for 30$ so we will have to see how that turns out, I only had the part number for the cog from the internet so hopefully all goes well. Friend came over and we spent a few hours cleaning the windshield and installing it. To my great dismay... Lower Driver Lower Passenger And upper driver all have gaps! This will be totally unacceptable, I remember reading about this problem earlier, but I had thought the MSA weatherstrip kit had a decent windshield gasket. I'm beginning to regret the purchase, neither doors fit very well, the windshield really leaves much to be desired, and this does not bode to well for the remaining gaskets. I'll have to do some more research, but as it stands now, water proof my car is not! Since I am nearing the end, I started working on some of the replacement displays. This replaces my center radio/heater control. Entertainment can be provided by my phone which is charged by the usb charger, and the electric heater will be connected to one of the switches. In addition I have a voltmeter, a digital clock, and a cabin or radiator thermometer. Since my fuel cell reads 0-90 instead of the stock 88-10 I bought a new gauge for that as well. A little ugly, but function over form . This replaces my ammeter/fuel gauge, but the voltmeter should provide more relevant information especially with my alternator upgrade. The last piece I will be working on is a little LED display. I found some colored 12 volt LED so I can wire one to the shift light, and have two green ones on either side to replace the indicators that no longer exist (tach replaced). Main things left to address: Driver door problems (hard to close, window not lining up quite right, unpainted portions, all the small gaskets) Passenger door (hard to close, does not line up, all the gaskets) Windshield gasket (trim and fitment) Hatch (gasket not installed) Fuel Cell (not sealed yet) Wiring in new panels Sway bar (tighten front, install rear) Suspension (cut 280z springs as outlined in faq) Tighten Steering Rack Install hood and inspection covers. Mount battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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