Jump to content
HybridZ
seattlejester

seattlejester's 1971 240Z

Recommended Posts

There is no advantage in NOT doing the spindle pins. While they may not require service should you ever need to take apart the rear suspension (which you probably will since project cars are never done :) ) you will once again be looking at having to pull them out. Youre really not saving yourself any time and since the car is apart now you might as well do it and save yourself the hassle in the future. If you ordered all new urethane bushings with your big lot of suspension parts these will feel a lot better than the stock bushings. Getting those in there may be a good idea and, of course, you will need to pull the spindle pin to do that.

Instead of using the stock spindle pins I replaced them with a long 5/8" grade 8 bolt. It seems to fit perfect and has stood up to a lot of abuse. Its also extremely easy to remove in the future.

Edited by h4nsm0l3m4n

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As h4nsm013m4n said, this really about the bushings. The pin is not likley to need service in and of itself. The pin is only an issue due to being difficult to remove with or without damaging it.

 

If the current bushings are new and the type you want there is no reason to go through the process. The only reason to bother is for the purpose of replacing worn bushings or to "upgrade" to poly bushings, spherical bearings, or whatever else strikes your fancy.

 

As for getting the pins out, I found it easy once the strut/arm assembly is out of the car. I tried to remove the pin while the strut was still in the car. That did not work due to the parts moving on the bushings. Once I remove the assembly (as you already have) it became faily easy. My problem was simply that I ruined the pins before figuring out how to get them out.

 

Since you already have the strut assembly out you should be able to press the pins out with a hydraulidc press. If you have to, pay a shop to do it. Otherwise, place the stut assembly such that the pin is verticle and support the whole assembly by the bushings and lower arm near the bushings, leaving the pin a free path of travel. As long as the support you use is rigid enough (concrete floor) it will be easy to drive the pin through with a big hammer ( 8 pound splitting maul). If you protect the end of the pin you should be able to get it out without damaging the threads. This will require an assistant, patience, and a large vocabulary of foul language.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your might get lucky and it will slide right out. The first one of my pins required the use of a air hammer and took about about 4 hours of cursing and throwing things before it finally gave up. Thinking to myself "The second would surely require the same amount of force." I positioned the hammer and used my other hand to steady the part. When I pulled the trigger and the pin shot out the bottom of the hole causing me to loose balance and fall into the work pinning my finger between the pin the the concrete floor with the hammer going full tilt. Sometimes they almost fall out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes. I'm gonna try spraying some matte white from the hardware store, if that fails I'm planning on ordering a gallon from hot rod flatz. Still trying to differentiate between matte and satin.

 

Color Scheme:

Matte White

Matte Black accent (all the chrome trim, window sills, door handles, etc)

Metallic Gold accent (knuckles, LCA, cross member, control arms, etc)

Polished xxr 513 with gold in 16x8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So turns out it is a horrible, horrible idea to use a sandblaster inside the garage :rolleyes: .

Took about 1/2 an hour to strip part of the firewall and the harder to reach areas on the car, and took 7 hours to clean up the mess afterwards.

Probably one more day and the floor and engine bay can be sealed.

 

After staring at my fuel tank, I've decided to contemplate using a fuel cell.

As far as I know the car was sitting for 6 months with old gas before I drained it, during that time the gas cap wasn't on, while I don't see any rust spots, I can only imagine what fell in, what's rusted etc. Also took a look at the straps and they are fairly gone.

The newer fuel cells have sumps built in so if I end up going turbo in the future, I won't have to source another tank, and I wouldn't be risking putting lord knows what into the engine if it overloads the filter. The downfall will be having to cut out the spare tire well which also holds my rear roll bar mount, and also think of a way to get the fuel into the fuel cell, and figuring out a fuel gauge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On a side note, what do people do with the floor? I've welded the floor in completely from the top, but is it worth it to also weld it from the bottom?

 

My plan was to go for the lapped approach than carefully cut away the lapped metal, any other recommendations?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To inspect the inside of the fuel tank you can remove the sending unit for the fuel level gauge. The opening is large enough to see the bottom of the tank on the deep side. If the rust has not caused (or nearly caused) pin-holes the tank can be cleaned and reused. We have our tank cleaned at a radiator shop. They had to drill a hole or two to let the cleaning solution flow through and drain out. The holes were soldered or welded closed. It has worked OK. The only issue we had was the pick-up tube seems to have developed a leak and would only pull fuel when the tank was full. Naturally it occurred on Sunday at the race track. We had to install an new pick-up tube.

 

There are round fuel cells available that fit in the tire well if that helps your roll-bar issue any.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm, I did spot a radiator shop in seattle, maybe I'll ask them to take a look and give a diagnosis. The problem is that I have a turbo sitting in my room screaming at me to be used...but alas maybe a pipe dream till later.

 

So found out today that I can lift the front end by myself, so with a few friends I should be able to get the car outside and really get at the hard to get areas without the ginormous cleanup, and I could just roll the car over to finish the welds underneath.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found my camera :D

 

Finally finished one of the largest articles on the to do list

Floors are done! At least from the top. Still need to seal the bottoms.

P1030212.jpg

The level pedal box

P1030213.jpg

 

Before I can paint the interior I had to make sure all the welding was completed..

Which meant I had to make the seat belt mounts. And the...

P1030214.jpg

Can you guess what these are? E-cookie for you if you can!

P1030215.jpg

Another hint

^Actually ended up with quite a bit more tubing than I had planned (too thick for strut tower braces), so if anyone local would like something please let me know.

 

 

Found a spot of damage, looks like at some point someone replaced the radiator support from another Z car...a Z car with damage.

P1030186.jpg

 

And another spot.

P1030188.jpg

Measure out the metal.

P1030189.jpg

Then replace.

P1030191.jpg

 

The rocker panel repair

P1030196.jpg

Behind

P1030197.jpg

 

Then moved onto rolling the rear fenders

P1030194.jpg

Not sure if I'm going to need to seal the area. I'm thinking just some undercoat to keep water from being kicked up there.

 

Some parts :)

P1030209.jpg

R200's

P1030205.jpg

The brake setup

P1030208.jpg

El boosto?

P1030210.jpg

 

Ran out of welding gas, so tomorrow I will be attaching all the seat belt mounts, finish out the frame rail attachment in the rear, fab up the rocker for the driver side, finally move on toward the rear of the vehicle. Will also be fixing the roll bar.

 

Getting close! Finally will be able to install the mountain of parts. Then only the engine rebuild and electrical wiring remain.

Edited by seattlejester

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest stdgrabbag

those rear ends might leave a pretty nasty stain in that carpet for you to get out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stopped by the radiator shop I mentioned above. The worker/owner was really level with me. Informed me that they don't usually take on fuel tanks anymore as the amount they have to charge is usually more expensive than most replacements. For my tank he said it would be roughly 100-150$ to acid treat, sonicate, and clean (reference value if anyone was looking to have their tank done). During the inspection we found some organic fauna, rust, and some bits of sand, so trying to clean it myself is probably a bit too much.

 

Now I can pickup a 16 gallon fuel cell for aobut 170$ so I'm still on the fence. Running the fuel lines would be much easier, and upgrading to fuel injection, or forced induction in the future would be much easier as well, not to mention I wouldn't have to source the tank straps.

 

But, alas that is an issue for another time.

 

Did a bit of work that I'm very proud to share. I wish I had taken my time on some of the hole locations, but all's well that ends well.

 

First off, I fixed the roll bar. The bar had the horizontal portion cut and the PO had placed duct tape over the holes.

P1030229.jpg

For those that guessed harness bar for the plates above, kudos to you!

P1030223.jpg

Mocking it up and tacking it in place.

P1030227.jpg

Filling in the space inbetween.

P1030225.jpg

Voila, cost me I think 30$ in metal and about 3-4 hours of work.

Edited by seattlejester

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So would it be wise to hold off on drilling the strut braces until the car is on the car loaded? Or am I being too anal?

 

Turns out I need to figure out my fuel problem, since I need to route my fuel lines (If I'm running hard line), before I can start reassembling the car.

 

Costs for fuel cell:

Initial cost 170$

Straps 30$

Fittings and hoses for fuel delivery 130$ AN lines are expensive!

Fuel vent line and external filter ??

Adapters etc to be able to fill the cell without opening the hatch every time ??

Material for the box and cover to separate cell from passenger compartment ??

 

Cost for fuel tank:

Sonicating, cleaning, etc 150$

Sending unit (if old one is indeed toast) 55$

Fuel tank straps ??

Fuel vent lines 230$ :o

 

Problems for cell...

Tire well is not flat, so I would have to cut out tire well, then weld in some type of box.

Will most likely have to reinforce said box.

Rear roll bar mount will have to be reinforced as it will lose the structural rigidity.

Fuel lines are going to be quite thick. May run into some difficulties there.

Not exactly sure how I'll be converting from SS AN line to feed the carbs.

May have to open the hatch every time to fill the cell.

 

Benefits for cell...

Won't be reusing 40 year old equipment.

Built in fuel sump.

No need to swap tanks for FI.

No need to figure out fuel solution in the future, read while-I'm-at-it.

Higher rear ground clearance <-that reason feels made up, haha.

AN fittings will make systems very modular, very easy to swap fuel pumps in the future.

Many fuel pumps come with AN fittings.

No need to source new straps, vent lines, or fuel sender.

Can remove the fuel door and the knob that sticks out.

 

Realistically I don't think I can afford to run boost at the moment, like most builds I'm way over budget, and factoring in a boosted engine, and sourcing a T-5 is going to turn out to be quite difficult. So my fuel requirements for the foreseeable future will be to feed SU Carbs. Other than the fact I'll have to rewire my tank (all the wiring and sensors fell apart, hoses were cut or crumbled) I think keeping the stock tank may be the wise choice...but then again, buying a project car is never a wise choice :P.

 

If anyone has any input I'd like to give it some consideration, I'm really on the fence on this issue.

Edited by seattlejester

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I feel like we are in the same boat here, my 3 options are surge tank, fuel sump, or fuel cell

 

Mine is going to be daily so i was thinking the fuel cell is the cheaper of the 3 because

My tank was rusty, busty, and not so trusty lol so i had to scrap it

 

a fuel cell from summit is 165 (12 gallon) and comes with sump. so no need for a surge tank

This might be a funny little idea but instead of cutting the whole spare tire out maybe just cut enough for the sump to hang out of.

 

Or maybe they can make one to fit the exact diameter of the spare well itself, that would be cool

 

just my .02 cents

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didnt think about it, and im stuck at the an fittings part (mother of god i never knew they were this expensive.) I have the summit 20 gallong fuel cell.(24 length, 20 width, 10 height) and it fits like a glove. I welded two 1.5 inch square bars between the rear bumper support frame and the frame over the diff, and then 2 1 inch square bars in between those for a perimeter, and then i made Basically a basket weave of straps to hang it from that perimeter frame from some 1.5 by 1/8 aluminum flat stock. I still need to enclose it because i have it sitting up into the trunk a few inches to keep the ground clearance up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didnt think about it, and im stuck at the an fittings part (mother of god i never knew they were this expensive.) I have the summit 20 gallong fuel cell.(24 length, 20 width, 10 height) and it fits like a glove. I welded two 1.5 inch square bars between the rear bumper support frame and the frame over the diff, and then 2 1 inch square bars in between those for a perimeter, and then i made Basically a basket weave of straps to hang it from that perimeter frame from some 1.5 by 1/8 aluminum flat stock. I still need to enclose it because i have it sitting up into the trunk a few inches to keep the ground clearance up.

 

Oh so wait you were able to get the cell to fit inside the spare?

If so can we see some pics i was just thinking of this the other day lol it's aluminum or plastic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm, I did give the external sump idea some thought, but the cost of 2 fuel pumps and the extra lines didn't quite appeal to me. Although I do have the space where the battery used to be.

 

The problem with fitting a cell in the spare tire is at the deepest point the tire well is I think 9 inches, but at the shallowest it is 5 inches or so, although as you mentioned cutting out just a portion to allow the cell to drop through would work, I'm not quite sure to what end.

 

I've replied to a few part outs regarding tanks to see if any are in straight up useable condition. If I can find a useable tank I think I may just give it a rest and proceed with the rest of the car. If all the tanks I find are in similar condition to mine, I think I shall have to lean towards a fuel cell.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ooh, definitely would like to view how it would look in the spare well.

 

A FOAF (friend of a friend) suggested running a barb to the cell and running fuel hose if cost was an issue. Another recommended finding fittings and lines on ebay from bulk buyers or race shops.

 

I'm gonna go to the garage tonight and take stock of what I would need to replace given both situations. Hopefully all the hoses are still intact :).

Edited by seattlejester

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Likewise, i've been debating about what to do also

same with the surge tank seems like extra stuff, and im trying to do braided lines

the tanks are all old, my area, the junk yard like to tend to putting the jackstands on the cars fuel tank -__-

the fuel cell seems like the best route, less cutting is good to me, i was gonna do the stock filler but i think im just gonna have the cell and a big ass funnell sitting in my trunk lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×