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LS/T56/240z Project Mentor Wanted


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Diff out today and back in; RT mount fit perfectly without mods. Phase angles look fine (but I can't get my head up in the trans tunnel high enough to say they are perfect). Dropped diff off jack and broke off an output flange bolt (sorry J. Coffee) and will have to have it re-spot welded. Trimmed rubber mount and rear crossmember per RT mount thread (very helpful) to clear the bolts. Drive shaft in with long bolts source provided by another forum member. Modified fuel rail back on. Just about finished with mechanical mock-up. Time for the diff and engine to come back out for the third time to get fuel and brake lines done. Maybe I can get that done next Sunday when we get back from a rainy week at the beach.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just about done with all test fitting of mechanicals. I've been painting brackets today. Engine is back out; diff is out for painting and fuel line install. Need help with wiring and I want to make it as simple as possible. Plan for now is to use Wait4meperformance per Cable's recommendation. But, I want to get the engine wiring harness mocked up. From my initial lay-out, it looks like the PCM will fit nicely using the original plastic bracket in the passenger fender well where my battery used to be.

 

Questions for forum:

1) Do I retain the "pigtail?" Do I need that to go thru the firewall into the inside of the car?

2) How do I find and wire-up the ODB2 port so that I can later use a Diablosport tuner?

 

I have only the engine/trans wiring harness. Do I need to go back to the junkyard for a chassis harness?

 

Cable, can you pm me and give me a hand; I may even need to call you again?

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  • 5 weeks later...

Had this info somewhere, but now I can't find it. Can anyone give me a LIST of everything I should tell my programmer/harness modifier (wait4meperformance) to change/delete? I have my engine/trans harness, CFB alternator, DBW pedal, all three plugs to go into ECM/PCM, a large portion of the engine bay body harness, an ODB plug and stock GTO fans. I plan to box up everything but the fans and send it to them with a note of my requests. Please help if you can, hoping to send it off this week.

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I don't think you need to send them all the hardware except the pcm. You should have the vats (antitheft), smog 02 sensors, skip shift removed. There are a few others, I am on mobile so I can't easily look it up, but I recall this being posted before. You can also tell wait4me what you are doinh and have them make a reccomendation based on your specs

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You are right. I was just embarrassed that I asked a redundant question. I really try to search the forums well, but it is funny how I can miss something right under my nose. Admins, please keep thread alive. I'll try to figure out how to make a link to the other thread.

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Worked all night Saturday; literally all night and I'm pooped. Finished driveshaft bolts (see that thread) and found another area on the RT diff mount (rubber portion) that needed clearnancing to avoid contacting the diff input flange. Painted and mocked up adjustable technotoys.com LCAs and adjustable zcc.com TC rods (to eliminate rubber bushings by headers and to get caster John Coffey recommends). Removed brakes idiot light manifold from inner fender. Moved line-lock solenoid from inner fender to firewall to make brake line lay out easier. Removed old throttle pedal and linkeage spindle from firewall with angle grinder. Clutch master cyl installed with 240z push rod and adjusted, but no line yet. Then hours of agony bending and fitting, bending and fitting, flaring etc to make all new brake lines to clear exhaust and allow an independed rear system for a hydraulic drifting hand brake. I probably have one more hard day/night to get the rest of the brake plumbing and my 3/8 hard fuel line installed up in the trans tunnel. This car will have a pretty neat braking system with front wheel line lock for dragging and a drifting rear hand brake for drifting. I have plumbed in an adjustable proportion valve, have removed the stock proportion valve and will eventually have two caliper disk brakes in the rear; although I am not changing to disks until engine is done. My hands hurt and I feel like the second day of boot camp. This is one problem with the 240z/LS swap (vs) a 280z/LS swap. With the 280z you can use stock fuel tank and lines.

 

After I get done with plumbing, will go back to prepping motor. Anybody got a recommendation on the easiest place to separate engine from trans (at engine block/bellhousing or at bellhousing/gearbox?) to do mods to the clutch slave cyl (for flex line and remote bleeder hose)? I don't want to get into a can of worms with the clutch/pressure plate.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Making slow progress. Have a few more hours on brake lines (argh). Then ANOTHER test fit of engine/trans to make sure nothing conflicts. Then last(?) test fit of fuel tank, then solid 3/8 fuel line goes off to have AN fittings welded onto each end. Once all this plumbing is done things should start moving along a lot faster. Harness sent to wait4meperformance.com. I'm having a lot of trouble deciding where to terminate the remote bleeder for the clutch slave-any suggestions?

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Boy from Oz-I noticed that you took faux intake pic off of thread...where did it go? I have often wondered why nobody makes faux intakes for the LSx motors. It should be cheap and easy with high profit potential. Have you seen any others? I've wondered if this is something to be pattented. What do you think? Send more pictures of your coil relocation - I really like the tubes you are using or wire looms. I have been thinking of Edelbrock coil covers for simplicity, but I really like what you have done.

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It's back. I was a little anxious that people might think I was a bit pretentious - my project is very much focused of the 250 GTO aspect rather than S30 or LS1. There is a chap down here actually fitting a V12 Ferrari engine to his GTO kit and I'm green with envy. The LSx valve covers were a real find. They are machined out of an aluminum billet and that allowed me to have the Ferrari engraving done. The tubes are just following what Ferrari did 50 years ago. In August I'm actually flying to the US to go to the Monterey Historic races and Pebble Beach just to actually see a GTO - there are none down here.

 

The issue with faux ram tubes is what to do about the throttle body. I am going to make an over-the-radiator cold air intake (type 'OTR' into eBay) and my radiator was made low to facilitate this. I will then cover it with a scoop to look something like the Mustang in the photo. I don't believe there is a sufficient market to mass produce.

 

Send me a PM with your email if you want more photos and a drawing of the brackets.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have fun with YOUR car and to hel_ with what anybody else thinks! I just got 2 hours of incredible top-down seat time in a couple of 427 Cobra replicas on a cool night with the moon shining and the Big Dipper overhead. I've heard people bash replicas with fiberglass bodies, etc. Let them bash away while we have all the fun.

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A little family support available here. My 280Z was the car JCI used to develop the original LS1/T56 kit components. My son, DarthZ, has the 240Z that Grenade 300 developed his installation manual from. If you have not yet downloaded the manual you should definitely do that and read through it. As to doing it right the first time I can definitely help you avoid mistakes.

As a thought - the stock T56 has an electronic speed output while the Datsun used a mechanical cable. Oops. Two solutions: 1) By a CableX converter that will take the T56 output and then use it's electric motor to drive your speedometer, or 2) get a modified tailshaft for the T56 that has a mechanical speed output.

Of interest, my LS1 was rated a 305 HP by GM in the 1998 Camaro Z28 but, with a set of headers, an ECU retun to the 2001/2002 parameters, and a K&N air filter mine is putting 325 to the rear wheels and about 340 ft/lbs of torque. These engines are awesome.

I'd stay away from drive-by-wire. The mechanical throttle mechanism on the LS1 is easily adapted to the Z and eliminates one more electrical circuit.

Also - if you get your engine from a donor car be sure to get the radiator cooling fans & shroud too. The one out of the '98 Z28 was almost a perfect fit for my 280Z radiator and it allowed me to just plug the fans into the engine harness and let the ECU control the fans just like in the donor car. With a 4-row radiator I have NEVER had an overheating problem.

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Phantom-I have been following most of your posts. As you recommend, I will try using the stock fans with a 4-core stock radiator. Waiting now for return of engine harness from wait4meperformance. I am hopeful to run fans off of that harness, but Hannah at wait4me has been kind of cryptic with my questions about the fan operation and has stopped returning my email questions. Maybe she is just on vacation. I'm gonna just wait on the harness and see what comes back. She gets good reviews from experienced hybridz folks and I think my questions may just make for a hassle for her. I will certainly be PM-ing you when I get to that stage.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had my harness done by Hannah more than a year ago, and I still email her with questions and get responses within 24-48 hours. For fans, Hannah should leave you with a fan #1 and a fan#2 wire. Wire it up as follows:

 

http://4moores.com/280z/files/ls1%20wiringFANS_NEW.pdf

 

Thanks to Scott for the abundance of data at 4moores.com/280Z

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It seems the alterator that I got out of a junkyard is giving Hannah trouble. I got her on the phone and she said that she wasn't sure if the camaro plug was going to work. He alternator that I found was on a shelf at the junkyard was unmarked. It uses the same mounting system, but has a slotted back cover as opposed to the big vent tube that everybody has to trim. Fits like a champ, but Hannah isn't sure how to modify the LS2 harness to make it plug in and work. Just as well, it is hotter than hades here in Alabama right now and my daughter just backed into my truck in the driveway bending the bumper and radiator support and destroying the grill. The wife's kitchen remodel is moving right along. Garage is all jammed ful of the old cabinets until the new ones arrive. Got to have this car done before it gets cold again.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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  • 4 weeks later...

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