Jump to content
HybridZ
RebekahsZ

LS/T56/240z Project Mentor Wanted

Recommended Posts

Has anybody used Jegs' universal LS swap oilpan package? It includes pan, windage tray, pickup, gasket, bolts and washers, dipstick and dipstick tube for $158 plus shipping.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance/809/19212593/10002/-1

 

Its a great deal for what is included and it will fit in the S30, however the oil pan sump will hang below the engine crossmember a decent amount. Unless you buy an aftermarket custom oil pan, you are limited to the '98-'02 F-Body oil pan or the '05-'07 LS2 Y-Body (Corvette) oil pan PERIOD. Trust my experience when I say that I have done MANY of these swaps to know what works and what is available.

 

BTW, the oil pan being sold is/was a factory GM pan used in the H3 with the 5.3 V8. GM sells the oil pan kit cheaper than buying the H3 oil pan alone, go figure. No wonder they needed a 'bailout'....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

L24 is out and on rolling stand; Have LS2/T56 on rolling stand with camaro pan/windage tray/dipstick installed. Have A/C and P/S off. Used a neat dummy power steering pump from nookandtranny.com that allows me to use original serpentine belt (With the simple ribbed idler pulley replacing the smooth one, I was afraid of the proximity of the belt to the lower alternator bolt (even when I ground the head down to 11mm). So, belt system is all squared away. Have installed JCI front mounts, but having trouble with long mount on driver's side (too tight in the Datsun engine mount tower-will need to grind some off spacer washer or JCI mount). The little TC rod cup washer is pretty rusty and seems kind of pointless (do I weld it or epoxy it to the JCI mount?) - so I'm probably going to buy some adjustable TC rods that will replace the rubber bushings with a metal bearing. Mr. Coffey says I need more caster, so I'll kill 2 birds with one stone. Have relocated driver side brake line and as I HATE brake fluid, I'm going to get all my brake line relocating done next to have that behind me. Anybody object to my plumbing front and rear brakes directly from master cylinder and eliminating the little housing that turns on the brakes idiot light - I haven't had the wire connected for 10 years and I don't think it does anything else)? I have cut/ground out the tran tunnel ears (I still can't hear and can't get thru airport security). I'm trying to work up the courage to cut off the throttle linkage on the firewall since I'm using the DBW pedal. All this cutting is pretty hard on me..this car has been my baby for 18 years and I feel like I'm cutting out it's soul. I know it sounds funny, but I spent a lot of hours getting the stock throttle linkage to work perfectly with my triple sidedrafts and now it is in a cardboard box; the custom stainless exhaust I pulled off the car was beautiful. My modified 240z tank is about half finished. I took some pics of the inside of it before the fabricator closes it back up. I should be done sometime this summer. Appreciate all the expert advice the forum is giving me - priceless. Plan is to assemble everything for a test fit and then pull it all down, paint and reassemble. The coating on the JCI stuff looks like it will be rusty very quickly and I figure I'm going to spill a lot more brake fluid before this is all over. Taking LOTs of pictures hoping to contribute to forum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need a confindence boost before I screw the wrong threaded pipe into the JCI oil pressure adapter (mounts down at the oil filter). Can anyone confirm that the threads in the adapter and that the threads in the Datsun oil pressure sender are 1/8" NPT? I've bought some brass pipe from my local Lowes to get he sender out from under the headers, but I want to be sure that the pipe thread is correct before I put torque to the tubing and strip out the threads or crack the adapter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine and trans are completely suspended by JCI mount kit. Still lots to do, but I wanted to share this pic with everybody who has been helping me on this thread and others. Slow progress, but progress non-the-less. One pic shows car up on jacks, one shows engine in and installed on JCI mounts, next is the modified 240z tank modeled after the dirty and rusty 280z tank. There has been a lot of discussion about the "baffles" in a 280z tank. The 280z tank basically has an internal sump. Now my clean 240z tank does too, and excessive venting removed and an 0-ring sealable access hole large enough to clean tank and even install fuel cell foam if I wind up needing it. I'll author a fuel tank thread that might be sticky-worthy when the car is on the ground and running. Taking lots of pictures for a build thread that discusses all the hiccups and mods that I've had to make. My best tools for this project are an angle grinder and a sledge. Thanks for all the support; more to follow. Keith

post-5903-021947600 1298527476_thumb.jpg

post-5903-016906800 1298527681_thumb.jpg

post-5903-031604100 1298527719_thumb.jpg

post-5903-080116700 1298527835_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am having trouble with the alternator clearance, just like many people. I've searched the forum and found the 2009 thread opened by Grenade. I have aggressively cut down my datsun engine mount tower and the JCI inner and outer driver side mount brackets, far more than what mnoel had to do (maybe a 240z/280z difference?) and that pretty well took care of the front-to-back clearance problem. However, my LS2 alternator is ON the steering rack adjustment housing. I can get a Camaro alternator, front bracket and rear bracket pretty cheap, and the camaro alternator APPEARES smaller in all dimensions, although I haven't held one in my hand. My 2 questions: 1) will the lower amperage of the Camaro alternator interfere with my use of the LS2 GTO wiring harness and computer? (There is no info on this issue on LS1tech.com either). 2) is the camaro alternator really any smaller in diameter (top to bottom) than the GTO alternator in such a way as to get my alternator off the steering rack?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These photos I prepared more for wiring connection reference than overall size but they might help. Basically don't bother even trying to fit an LS2 alternator. There are no F-bodies GMs in this country so I had to buy an alternator from the US - it was one of the best decisions I made on the project. Just to let you know what was involved, I bought the Camaro/Firebird bracket for $15 but it cost $30 in shipping - still worth it. Go straight for a Camaro/Firebird alternator - remember the engine will move on the mounts so you need good clearance. No problem with the amps unless you are running power windows, central locking, etc.

 

NOTE: There are two types of plastic cowls and the one in the photo is the wrong one... D'oh! There is one without the scoop but with ventilation slots - thats the one you want.

post-1266-060858900 1299821426_thumb.jpg

post-1266-045181000 1299821449_thumb.jpg

post-1266-043181200 1299822760_thumb.jpg

Edited by Boy from Oz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great-thanks a million fellas. Will order Camaro alt kit tonight. What's the easiest way to fix the wiring? Looks like the terminals are different... Perhaps I just tell my wiring harness modification service (wait4meperformance) to make the change?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need a confindence boost before I screw the wrong threaded pipe into the JCI oil pressure adapter (mounts down at the oil filter). Can anyone confirm that the threads in the adapter and that the threads in the Datsun oil pressure sender are 1/8" NPT? I've bought some brass pipe from my local Lowes to get he sender out from under the headers, but I want to be sure that the pipe thread is correct before I put torque to the tubing and strip out the threads or crack the adapter.

I didn't see where you had resolved this so I figured I'd give you an answer.

I did an LT1 swap and used an 1/8" NPT brass T with the Datsun oil pressure sender and the LT1 oil pressure switch.

I can't guarantee the Datsun sensor is 1/8" NPT but mine has never leaked in the 5 years since I put it in.

 

Nice looking car by the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Big gains over past week (my wife was out of town); pics to follow. Went to junk yard and found the CFB style alternator and bought it. The only CFB alternator that they had was the vented one without the air duct. Produces juice, but bearings sound bad. Their inventory computer showed it as coming from a 1997 Chevy 1500 truck but I can't verify that and I'm suspicious of that info. Got new rear bracket from dealer cheap ($10 with bolt) after passing up a dirty one from ebay that sold $75. Front bracket is same part number between GTO and CFB. Lots better fit. 1/4 inch clearance from rack, more room on drivers Datsun motor mount, although some amount of trimming would still have been needed. Junk yard had tons of pickup alternators which are the same, but don't have the cast-in boss for the rear bracket-I guess it would be fine just using the front bracket?? If that is the case, the pickup alternator is the ticket because they are so available. Will have alternator rebuilt once I confirm that harness builder can change over the electrical plug. Pics from Austrailia were GREAT. Advice and encouragement from all else, really helpful.

 

Took fuel tank to hydraulic hose company to get hoses fuel pump/regulator/filter assembly put together and mounted to fuel tank, and fuel rail modified to accept AN flex line. Got it back; it is not as pretty as I hoped, but it is exactly what I asked for. Way too much money involved in fuel system. Pics to follow.

 

Dropping diff today, before leaving for a week at the beach, to get RT mount test-fit and start on hard lines (brake and fuel) up in the trans tunnel.

 

Thanks to everybody. When that is done, I'll be looking for advice on the wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Diff out today and back in; RT mount fit perfectly without mods. Phase angles look fine (but I can't get my head up in the trans tunnel high enough to say they are perfect). Dropped diff off jack and broke off an output flange bolt (sorry J. Coffee) and will have to have it re-spot welded. Trimmed rubber mount and rear crossmember per RT mount thread (very helpful) to clear the bolts. Drive shaft in with long bolts source provided by another forum member. Modified fuel rail back on. Just about finished with mechanical mock-up. Time for the diff and engine to come back out for the third time to get fuel and brake lines done. Maybe I can get that done next Sunday when we get back from a rainy week at the beach.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just about done with all test fitting of mechanicals. I've been painting brackets today. Engine is back out; diff is out for painting and fuel line install. Need help with wiring and I want to make it as simple as possible. Plan for now is to use Wait4meperformance per Cable's recommendation. But, I want to get the engine wiring harness mocked up. From my initial lay-out, it looks like the PCM will fit nicely using the original plastic bracket in the passenger fender well where my battery used to be.

 

Questions for forum:

1) Do I retain the "pigtail?" Do I need that to go thru the firewall into the inside of the car?

2) How do I find and wire-up the ODB2 port so that I can later use a Diablosport tuner?

 

I have only the engine/trans wiring harness. Do I need to go back to the junkyard for a chassis harness?

 

Cable, can you pm me and give me a hand; I may even need to call you again?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had this info somewhere, but now I can't find it. Can anyone give me a LIST of everything I should tell my programmer/harness modifier (wait4meperformance) to change/delete? I have my engine/trans harness, CFB alternator, DBW pedal, all three plugs to go into ECM/PCM, a large portion of the engine bay body harness, an ODB plug and stock GTO fans. I plan to box up everything but the fans and send it to them with a note of my requests. Please help if you can, hoping to send it off this week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think you need to send them all the hardware except the pcm. You should have the vats (antitheft), smog 02 sensors, skip shift removed. There are a few others, I am on mobile so I can't easily look it up, but I recall this being posted before. You can also tell wait4me what you are doinh and have them make a reccomendation based on your specs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are right. I was just embarrassed that I asked a redundant question. I really try to search the forums well, but it is funny how I can miss something right under my nose. Admins, please keep thread alive. I'll try to figure out how to make a link to the other thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Worked all night Saturday; literally all night and I'm pooped. Finished driveshaft bolts (see that thread) and found another area on the RT diff mount (rubber portion) that needed clearnancing to avoid contacting the diff input flange. Painted and mocked up adjustable technotoys.com LCAs and adjustable zcc.com TC rods (to eliminate rubber bushings by headers and to get caster John Coffey recommends). Removed brakes idiot light manifold from inner fender. Moved line-lock solenoid from inner fender to firewall to make brake line lay out easier. Removed old throttle pedal and linkeage spindle from firewall with angle grinder. Clutch master cyl installed with 240z push rod and adjusted, but no line yet. Then hours of agony bending and fitting, bending and fitting, flaring etc to make all new brake lines to clear exhaust and allow an independed rear system for a hydraulic drifting hand brake. I probably have one more hard day/night to get the rest of the brake plumbing and my 3/8 hard fuel line installed up in the trans tunnel. This car will have a pretty neat braking system with front wheel line lock for dragging and a drifting rear hand brake for drifting. I have plumbed in an adjustable proportion valve, have removed the stock proportion valve and will eventually have two caliper disk brakes in the rear; although I am not changing to disks until engine is done. My hands hurt and I feel like the second day of boot camp. This is one problem with the 240z/LS swap (vs) a 280z/LS swap. With the 280z you can use stock fuel tank and lines.

 

After I get done with plumbing, will go back to prepping motor. Anybody got a recommendation on the easiest place to separate engine from trans (at engine block/bellhousing or at bellhousing/gearbox?) to do mods to the clutch slave cyl (for flex line and remote bleeder hose)? I don't want to get into a can of worms with the clutch/pressure plate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Making slow progress. Have a few more hours on brake lines (argh). Then ANOTHER test fit of engine/trans to make sure nothing conflicts. Then last(?) test fit of fuel tank, then solid 3/8 fuel line goes off to have AN fittings welded onto each end. Once all this plumbing is done things should start moving along a lot faster. Harness sent to wait4meperformance.com. I'm having a lot of trouble deciding where to terminate the remote bleeder for the clutch slave-any suggestions?

post-5903-056094100 1306550609_thumb.jpg

post-5903-026190600 1306550633_thumb.jpg

post-5903-061680200 1306550655_thumb.jpg

post-5903-017364600 1306550674_thumb.jpg

post-5903-089336000 1306550695_thumb.jpg

post-5903-094904400 1306550718_thumb.jpg

post-5903-017192100 1306550744_thumb.jpg

post-5903-025171700 1306550766_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×