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RebekahsZ

LS/T56/240z Project Mentor Wanted

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Had a death and a heart attack in the family, so I haven't been working much overtime to pay for project-ran out of money for a few weeks. Getting some overtime this week and put 2 sets of SUs, the GTO oil pan, and my old Dellorto sidedraft carbs on ebay. Still waiting for 2 items to sell and I've already got over $1500 in my Paypal account! The GTO oilpan was worth $270. Time to go shopping!!!! The fan relays I ordered are on back-order and Haywire is holding my last pile of wiring parts until the order is complete, so I'm kind of frozen on the fans. Weekend goal (in addition to getting a Christmas tree up) is to get remote battery cables in and attached to bulkhead connectors on the firewall closed to the starter and fuse block, locate the CableX box, and mock up some temporary header extensions with PVC so that I can see if my O2 sensors wires need to be lengthened. Really wanted to have side-exit exhaust, but I just can't see a practical way to do it without it scraping the ground all the time, plus it is something that a cone could catch on (not that I ever hit any cones)! Hoping to get this thing cranked before the new year. I welcome all LS1/2 wiring advise-any helpful tips you want to throw at me.

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Thanks guys, I was thinking of having the Admins move this to the Member Projects forum since it seemed like I was just talking to myself. Bring on the advice, I still don't have a primary build mentor (although I am PM-ing a handfull of guys for specific advice) and I'm kind of just working thru this bit by bit. I really do want as much help as I can get, because I really don't know what I'm doing, I'm just not afraid to go for it.

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I have been impressed with your dedication and getting it done. I have never stripped a car down to metal ( and some rust !!) and start all over, but I know how to work on anything mechanical, so I said what the hell --I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I do not know about you, but when I talked to the guys in the neighborhood and the co-workers, they think swapping a another engine into a Datsun is the coolest thing ever. You are doing a great job, so I will be asking you questions about the brake stuff, so be ready !!!

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Have a bunch of electrical supplies ready to install, but i spent last night in the hospital caring for my father in law. He declined over night and just got moved to the ICU. I'm shot and probably wont get anything done this weekend, off for a nap. My buddy who I gave my L24 engine to plans to go pick up a R200 LSD from a '88 300zxt tomorrow. He is swapping 240sx parts for it then passing it on to me gratis! Pass along the z-car good will!

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Just fried engine wiring harness. So much for getting car running before holidays are over. Pulling engine again to strip wiring harness and sending everything back to waitformeperformance. Looks like I at least fried the main power wire and connector that runs throughout the harness. Hopefully didn't burn up ECU. This harness has every wire labled, but it assumes that you have a basic understanding of wiring (no instructions came with harness when it came back) and has a ton of wires without any fuses, relays or connectors. This kit is not user friendly for the unskilled and is definitely not "plug and play." Did I mention that I am very discouraged? As usual, any advice is appreciated. Sending it back to try again in a few weeks. I was at least able to get motor to turn on the starter and got lights working, etc, before I burned it up.

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Keith,

 

Try posting what labeled wires you connected where and I'm sure we can get you through it. Also, try posting some pictures of how you connected the harness. If you don't want to post it here, shoot me a PM and I'll take a look.

 

Joe

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I'll take some pictures tomorrow. I kind of crashed after I burned the wire and went to the movies with my family. The wire I burned is the black one with red stripe that grounds the black center plug on the LS2 PCM to the passenger side head. I'm hoping I didn't ruin the big PCM plug. It was my fault, I just got sloppy. I found an hour of energy after the movies and pulled the engine back out and stripped all the casing off the harness (have a little more to go) to assess damage. I will be sending the harness and PCM back to waitformeperfomance for diagnostics, repair and replacement of that wire. It is only money (and time), right? Between now and Monday, I am going to adjust the length of some of the wires, since I have the casings off anyway. I'll try to take really good pics so that my questions make sense. Thanks for volunteering to help me-I can repair a ruptured eyeball, but I don't do wires.

 

By the way, since you are from NJ: tommorrow, I'm supposed to approve the final draft of my daughter's Princeton application essay. It is due prior to Jan 1. If she gets in that will put a damper on my z-car budget!

Edited by RebekahsZ

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Wiring harness and PCM are in the hands of a new (local-2 hours each way) LS tuner-didn't know he was here until I had breakfast with the local Cobra club. When this is done, I don't want to every hold a set of wire strippers in my hands again! Cable called me from California and he gave me a lot of advice. Wiring for fans is all done and they work great. Reused GTO wiring harness from the fans to the relay. Looks great, should quick disconnect well. Gotta get some more heat-shrink to finish fuel pump wiring, but I know exactly what needs to be done. We will see what the local tuner comes up with. Got a Longacre toe gauge from Summit-car pushes a lot easier without an inch of toe in. Rebekah gave me a hand. It is a race to see which happens first: car running, or the arrival of long-tube headers. Still PLENTY to do. After fuel pump is oil pressure gauge wire and to put a connector on the back-up lights switch on the tranny. Have a friend picking up an R200 LSD for me in Atlanta on Saturday. Mustache bar and flanges on the way from Florida. New rear LCAs should be here this week. Thanks to everybody for the help and encouragement.

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Edited by RebekahsZ

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Just found 2008 thread on VSS to Cable - X connections. It seems that it is the high-speed trans VSS wire that I need to jump a wire from for the Cable-X. Thanks to the admins for keeping the archives and searcch function working. Thanks to mnoel for the info. Only remaining question is: where will I find a good source for volts when the key is in the accessory postion?

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Dual fans wired. Set up is for one fan to blow when the low-speed ECU wire is grounded, then when the temp gets high enough, the high-speed wire will ground and turn the second fan on too. Going out to garage now to finish fuel pump wiring. Hope to pick engine wiring harness and PCM from repair shop this Thursday.

 

Have bought LSD R200, R200 mustache bar, have Z31 CV axles: on M2 buying group for shortened shafts and companion flanges. Modern motorsports adjustable rear LCAs have arrived. Will delay further rear suspension and differential work until motor swap is finished.

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Edited by RebekahsZ

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Going today to pick up engine harness and computer from tuner about 2 hours away. He has fixed the burned ground wire and worked on the PCM tuning as well. Says the computer is OK, but that the previous tuner had failed to turn off the security system! He says he car would never have started! I guess I'm glad I burned up that wire - every cloud has a silver lining.

Edited by RebekahsZ

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Wiring. The first pic shows the engine harness with all the split casings removed and organized with zip ties. Next is the passenger side of engine: since I moved the cold air intake to the passenger side, the MAF wiring needed to be moved from the driver side to the passenger side-perfect length, no cutting. Found out that my engine supplier gave me an LS1 MAF instead of an LS2 MAF because the plug doesn't fit; LS2 MAF ordered (whats ANOTHER $100?). On the left side of the engine I made a little harness that re-routes the knock sensor wiring via the front of the engine to avoid the direct heat of the exhaust. The water temp wire was added as was the oil pressure. That is routed along the alternator wire from the drive side to the passenger side of engine to mate with the 240z engine bay wiring. I re-routed the alternator and LS2 water temp sensor to be more neat as well. Finally, all the wires that will enter the cockpit were relocated to the drive side in order to pass them into the cockpit via the existing choke cable hole in the firewall. Not depicted is a jumper wire off of the transmission VSS high speed wire (blue and white) to send a signal to the Cable-X. I plan another test install of engine into car (I'm getting pretty good at it) before putting split casing back on the harness and adding weatherpack connectors.

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Keith, I have both my [gm] fans programmed to run/off together.

 

 

That is another way to do it. If you have two fans and want to utilize them, then have them both turn on at the same time. You can do this through HP Tuners or other tuning software. I set my fan to turn on at 205 degrees and off at 195 degrees (I have HP Tuners).

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Looks like the engine harness needs wrapping to make it neater. The stub axles on the 240 and 280Z are 25 and 27 spline respectively. They become the weakest point in the propulsion system after putting the R200 and CV half shafts in place.

 

 

You are correct but 39 spline stub axles and companion flanges are available. I just order mine last week.

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39 spline? Holy cow, that ought to be indestructible. Who makes them? I'm gonna keep the 280z stubs i just changed to-if I don't get this car on the road, I'm gonna shoot myself!! Maybe a future mod....

 

Yesterday's progress:

Wired DBW pedal using weather pack GM-style connectors. Ran all wires intended to go to driver side of cockpit too: tach, speedo, line lock, idiot light and something else I can't remember...have only done the firewall side of these, just measuring engine side and I'll cut and add weather packs next time I pull engine (hopefully for the last time). Don't really like GTO gas pedal with the hinge-it may be more comfortable for the general public, but it seems funny to be heel-toeing toward a moving target-it just feels funny; will likely try to make that pedal solid in the future. All of this psycho OCD wiring perfectionism is intended to make it easier to service and remove engine. Located OBD/Data port on passenger side since I always see people putting their laptops in the passenger seat. Ran fuel pump relay activation wire with remoted battery cables along passenger side rocker panel. Spend several days running back and forth to exhaust shop to make some side-exit dump tubes. Don't freak out-these are just to allow me to start car with O2 sensors installed and to allow me to keep some fumes out from under car when working out the initial bugs and fixing the fluid leaks that I anticipate upon initial start-up. Also will allow me to either nurse the car to the muffler shop or to the alignment shop, whichever comes first. With my 145/80/15 front tires and 26" rear tires, there is about 2-1/2" of clearance to garage floor-not near enough to keep on a street car. Heck, the return road at my local track is too rutted up for me to keep these side exhausts, but they sure look cool for now. I bet they are going to be loud. Learned about a big problem with the JTR short headers: it is a real PITA to get a wrench on the collector flange bolts. I'm in the group buy for long tube headers, and if the long tubes allow enough ground clearance, I'll just swap to them when they arrive. If they don't allow enough ground clearance, I plan to re-sell them and switch to some sort of ball/socket collector connector on my JTRs-I just can't see that I'll be able to tighten the collectors enough to prevent recurring leaks. Will post more as I get work done; changing clothes to get out in the garage now.

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