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ZT-R

My 240 rb26 build

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by the way i would never buy a fragola hose end ever again. i have 8 of their 8 an 90 degree fittings and every single one of them leaks. none of the aeroquips leak. (these are for teflon hose) @ 40 bux each they can go to hell. :angry::angry:

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btw i think im gonna have to make a new front differential mount (ttt currently) and a new trasmission bracket (mckinney currently). i should have just made all my own mounts and stuff. maybe i am overdoing all this but at least it will be right. the mckinney sags like craZy when weighted by the trans.

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Yes, lots of circles. My circles were about 5cm in diameter (yes the laser was not real straight). It only took a couple of goes to get it pointing straight at the diff. What I later realised though was that since I am standing my engine upright, the transmission output actually sits closer to the driver (passenger in australia). So when I was pointing the transmission at the diff, I was actually twisting the whole engine (I.E. the driveline was not parallel in both horizontal plains). This would not be too much of an issue as the angles were very small. Never the less, I am redoing my engine mounts to bring it all a bit straighter. To get it straight I am running some string lines the length of the car and taking several measurements off the engine/transmission. Tedious but should mean that I can get the the driveline quite straight.

 

I agree with making all the mounts yourself, takes a bit more effort but is well worth it in the end. Being a 240z, your mount will be very easy to make. Mine being a 260z had the ear type mounts so I had to do this.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98380-transmission-mount-for-260z-rb26-300zx/

Edited by garvice

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thats nice. i was thinking about making mounts really just like oem ones but moving them back inline with the mounting position on the trans. as it stands now the mounts are about 6 inches forward of where the mount is on the bottom of the trans. that much weight with 6 inches of leverage at a 90 degree angle =flex with the mckinney ones. they have a little gusset on one part but you cant really gusset the straight back part... unless you dont need an exhaust :P

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well, i have been tinkering on her and she is pouting. To get to something i need to work on, i have to take 10 things off. anyway... got the intercooler done, hks bov mounted on the fmic, charge pipes fabbed up, bungs welded up for IAC and AAC, (just gotta make the hoses, probably tomorrow), fuel tank plumbed, all new hoses for the vapor tank (used epdm stock hose but i did order the one hose that hooks to the top with the 180 degree.) could have easily made the bends from tubing and for 60 bux i probably should have. got the drive shaft monday but the jackasses put a 4 bolt rear end flange on it for some reason, called em and they made a new one that day and send it out the following day (at least they say) hopefully be here by friday. Ordered the suspension and axles hopefully be here by friday so i have my work cut out. will try to get some pics soon. now i just need to find a revenue stream.

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I hear ya with the revenue stream x)

 

Good to see your plugging along on yours. I'm going to be doing a fuel surge tank setup soon with those AN fittings, just need to get it all mapped out as I don't have much experience dealing with those fittings.

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make sure you use teflon braided line so the vapor doesnt permeate through the hose. i used 8an hose which is pretty big and hard to find good fittings for that unless you use aeroquips which are steel, which i didnt want, granted they are zinc coated it appears. also make a test cap and test every hose. i test up to 100 psi with air (not really supposed to use a compressible gas, but blah.... put 100psi or so on it (which you can set your air compressor too cause the hose will fill up very fast) then stick it in a tank of water. also if you havent used these make sure you get swivel fittings as they are much easier to install. i bought some fragola brand hose ends for the teflon hose and they leaked and i couldnt get them to seal, out of 4 hoses, 1 sealed. also with the teflon hose ends be careful not to strip the threads as they are a lot less than standard hose ends, Hope that helps... any manifold porn yet?

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well here is the fuel pump in the rear. (1 walburo 255hp to fill the surge, and 2 in the surge).

5620191619_02fff63537_b.jpg

 

stupid vapor tank... why they didnt put a piece of sheet metal over this and block it from the cabin i have no idea...

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here is the rear sump pickups, dual crimped 8an teflon lines

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side shot of the rear fuel pump

5620780000_4762f6825f_b.jpg

 

AAC and air regular plumbed.

5620192221_95de160412_b.jpg

 

here is the overflow tank, its only 1qt which has me wondering but next time i fire her up i will see how much it fills up before i weld the lid on there. nevermind the nasty welds on the left side....

5620780234_3e925945c1_b.jpg

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holding up good. i use it in my crane company too for blocks, hooks, spreader bars, shackles too. its the only thing that holds up to abuse. i was thinnking about using the tycoat primer and putting auto paint over it in the engine bay but by the time i get everything done your not gonna see anything except for the only run i have in the engine bay, which is right under that recovery tank :(

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well another non productive weekend....

i thought i had my pinion angles just right today, cranked her up, tuning the aem and got into 5gear and got alot of driveshaft vibration (has to be because i dont have any axles hooked up to my diff). it took me a day and a half to get it where it is now but it still isn't right. i need to find a digital inclimometer, as i cant read these damn angle finders up in the tunnel. I tried using sockets coming off the flanges, using the crankshaft (which seemed the most consistent), etc but whatever, i'll figure it out.

 

Installed a new clutch master cylinder. got it to work i think. i dont have any axles yet so i cant say for sure, but i can spin the driveshaft with my hand. the r34 is a pull (slave closer to the rear of the car pushing towards the front). i have the rod on the petal way far out. i might take the old "nut collar" that attaches to the petal and lengthen it 1/2" or so. The new master came with a rod and tank but the rod was like an inch shorter than the one that was in there, so i swapped the longer rod (glad i did that) but might need to make it a touch longer.

 

hard to find twin turbo cv's that are affordable.. best place is carquest with my shop owner's discount and just pay the cores... cheaper than 200 bux when they come on ebay every blue moon. also trying to find rear calipers for a z32...

more to come. say tuned :P

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ZT-R,

 

I wanted to ask what you did the stock fuel liquid/vapor vent line that runs from the Driver's side of the engine bay back to the hard part of the filler. In the pics below, it is the hardline with all the white overspray on it next to the the open turbo coupler. Did you incorporate this line into your RB system or do a delete?

 

IMG_0189.jpg

 

IMG_0188.jpg

 

Your system looks great!

 

Bill

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i took out my hard line but i will be hooking it up. i plan on using a check valve inline and it hooked up to a vacuum log coming off the intake manifold. make sure you have a check valve on it, vac only. at least that what im doing.

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ok, broke out the lathe on the suspension and i am glad i did, turned out great. more pics to come.

 

these are the lower perches that come with the ground control coilovers.... they made me laugh and reminded me of my hondas weaponR suspension...

5656082692_8d6a0b828a_b.jpg

 

so giving the middle finger to that i made these. hammer tight tolerances turned out perfect i must say ;)

5656083686_58171617f5_b.jpg

 

then i modified the top hats to fit inside the bearing like the oem perch...

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got it lowered on the ground today and can push down own it my my scrawny self and one of my guys says "now thats a suspension" ahah love it..

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Here is 2 front suspension shots.

5673657516_bdfcb66be2_b.jpg

5673091677_f5337eb32f_b.jpg

 

I pulled my 280z brake booster which had the 15/16 mc upgrade already on it.

5673661238_542408da18_b.jpg

 

here is the 240z booster pattern. the 280z is slightly wider, hell you could slot these if you wanted to but i just redrilled it.

5673657936_8ef725f592_b.jpg

 

I shuck the booster and didnt hear the reaction disk flopping around but i decided to investigate while i had it out, im glad i did. i was wondering how i was going to get the disk out,i used a air gun and blew it in at all angles and the reaction disk came flying out (lots of people have trouble getting it out, so just use the air gun mine has like a 45 degree tube on it so i could stick it down inside there).

5673090657_acf1140d4e_b.jpg

 

put some quick set epoxy on there (after i sanded and degreased the surfaces of course)

5673658910_0f410ce3b0_b.jpg

 

and the end result...

a 280z booster and a 280zx master cylinder.

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here is the clearances, kinda hard to see but its tight fit, but it fits none the less.

5673092761_33f73d3b4c_b.jpg

 

*sigh* she is getting there... 3 steps forward, 2 steps back... so one at a time. hopefully T3 will have some parts next week so i can get the rear end done.

B)

 

now if i only had a way to pay for it i would be able to sleep at night...

Edited by ZT-R

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well, spent all friday and saturday drilling and tapping out all these broke off bolts, in the body, probably 20-25 of them, geeez...

anyway trial fit the front lip and bumper, got the aem boost solenoid hooked up and wired, mounted the emblem on the valve cover finally, haha that should give me about 10hp right there... I'm starting to get excited, i know its premature but thats my nature ;)

 

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are the stock injectors good for 12psi on stock turbos? i know the 1cc per hp rule, so i would think so but figured i would ask.

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