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OldAndyAndTheSea

Luna: The cause of, and solution to, all of my problems

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I love Hammerite. It's pretty much Bulletproof. I would say it is DEFINITELY on par with POR-15.

 

It's pretty thick stuff, so after about 15 minutes of painting your wrists will let you know whats up.

 

I bought 1 Quart of the Aluminum Primer and 2 quarts of the Black Hammered Finish Enamel. The primer covered the whole interior front to back, and I used about 1 1/2 quarts of the back making sure it was covered.

 

I think it was around 12 bucks a quart.

 

I would recommend it to ANYONE.

 

POR-15 is good, but I would say Hammerite is JUST as good. But in the end its all preference.

 

Out of curiosity, what did you use to prep the surface other than scrape and clean it off?

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Out of curiosity, what did you use to prep the surface other than scrape and clean it off?

 

 

I took my large 6 inch wire wheel and removed all the factory paint to bare metal, and used my smaller 3 inch wire wheel for the hard to reach areas, like under the driver's pedals, and corner areas.

 

Hammerite will definitely stick to sanded paint, but I figured, "while I was down there" that I would regret not taking all previous material off the car.

 

150-180 grit is a good choice of sandpaper for the hammerite to stick to, but I'd knock down the stubborn areas with something a bit more abrasive, like a 40 or 60.

 

If rust is present, media blasting is pretty much the only "GOOD" way to clean the metal.

 

Thanks for the comments guys, it means a lot!

 

I'm in the process of installing my new carpet, and I need to test fit my dash harness, then wrap it, then MAYBE, jut MAYBE will I be able to throw the dash back in there, can't wait to see those Phantoms. Mmmmmmm delicious.

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UPDATES:

Stock fuel pump has been giving me fuel pressure issues so I am swapping it out for a Walbro 255 inline tomorrow, then she will run like a top.

 

Oh.... And how could I forget.

 

I installed my dash!

 

I apologize for the pictures, man it's hard to photograph Black interior inside, and FORGET about a lit up gauge pic. This is the best I could do. I'm going to have to figure that one out, once the car leaves her jack stands.

 

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The Green indicator lights are my relocated blinker/hazard lights and the toggle switch in the middle turns on my 2.5'' White LEDs mounted under the dash.

 

Also, I wet sanded and removed the "fasten seat belt" indicator so now it is just a red lense that tells me when my highbeams are on, and the choke light is my alternator failure dummy light, since I don't have the space for a voltmeter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here are the Autopal h4's that are offered for our car, coupled with the MSA upgraded headlight relay.

Please note, the car is not running. I know many people wonder what some of the headlight upgrades look like, I sure did.

 

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Next step is bolt in my seats (fooled you into thinking they were IN there didn't I?) and then I get to move back to finishing up some touch up paint and body work.

 

Then the most satisfying detail session ever.

 

Couldn't be more Stoked-er!!!

 

 

Oh. Found these random interior pictures, so here's an edit.

 

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Thanks for looking!

Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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Changed the mounting of my four points.... Now they won't snap my spine in half if I hit anything. Haha!

 

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Next on the list:

 

1.) Energy Suspension Poly bushing master kit install (mainly just the fronts for now, until I change my rear end stuff down the line, then I'll do the rears)

 

2.) Drive the stupid car.

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Well a quick update.

 

I've been driving the car as my daily driver all summer.

 

Fixing little quirks here and there.

 

But today I had a little fun.

 

Since it took me 3 months to get my car inspected, I burned through a set of tires on a bad alignment :)

 

so what's a guy to do?

 

Take the turbo 280zx rims and swap em to the 240.

 

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Here's before

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After

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Definitely still not wide enough, but after my alignment, I'm gonna stick my 1 1/4 spacers in there. Give it a little poke, at least temporarily until I can afford some coilovers.

 

Swazzys!!!

 

 

 

 

Also, I've never mentioned that I am an avid sailor (surprised by my account name) but I just bought a new sailboat. It's an International 14. For those of you who don't know, these boats average speeds in the 12+ knot range on most days, and frequent over 20 knots in decent breeze. They are a couple feet smaller than the skiff boats in the Olympics, the 49ers.

 

100% carbon fiber hull, mast, and boom.

 

Sexay

 

 

Definitely the most fun experience ever (next to the Z of course)

 

here's a pic, since I can hardly control myself while around the boat.

 

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Hey what seats and harnesses are those? I like em.

 

 

The seats are some eBay specials I bought around 5 years ago. That's all the info I have on them really, sorry.... I'll say they only cost 200 bucks delivered to my door. I consider them by far the best investment for the car. They have to be adjusted perfectly otherwise they "Squish" a little. Haha. The harnesses are just bare bones Nismo 4 point harnesses.

 

 

I also just got a gopro so......

 

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Videos to come. I promise

Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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Okay so update: Walbro decided to die this past Saturday. I had fried my old fusible link due to my alternator upgrade. Didn't notice the voltage drop til later. So I believe this was the cause of the overall fuel pump failure 2 days or so after. Or maybe its just coincidence? Either way, I'm ordering a new one, and while I wait....

 

I finally decided to begin to piece together my initial turbo setup for the winter. Best part is 95% of the parts were already owned :)

 

I've pieced together pretty much everything but..

 

I have a few questions regarding the turbo harness. This is out of a 82 zxt.

 

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First question: In regards to the following picture; I am wiring this into a 1973 240z, I don't know if these wires are used in the swap and the page of my haynes manual that has the wiring diagram is completely faded and illegible. Where do they go? Any help would be appreciated. Wire Colors are

 

White with link

White

White/Black

Red

 

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And if they carry power...Can one be tied into my fuel pump relay constant?

 

Here are pictures of my fuel pump relay part of the harness.

 

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Second Question: Is the blue wire with the red stripe 12v switched power? Wasn't able to confirm.

 

Third Question: I am relocating my cylinder head temp sensor to my thermostat housing (n42 head), is there a water temperature sensor to supplement this reading to the ECU or does the cylinder head do the whole job? I see a water temp sensor, but I think this is for the gauge? Which doesn't apply to my swap. Am I correct in assuming so? And if there IS a water temp sensor for the ECU (FI ONLY) what does it look like?

 

 

I think that's all for now, I used Bumble Zee's and Zeerari's guide/supplement for the information thus far, and only need those couple questions figured out to make the swap smoother.

 

Thank you for looking, and I hope some kind fella or lady will help.

 

 

 

Here are some pictures of my layout so far. Stock Harness ECU and AFM from a 1982 280zx Turbo

 

 

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When I do the swap I'm most definitely going to write an intensively documented guide on how to swap an 1982 harness into a 240z.

 

I'm initially going with a Stock 1982 zxt Harness with stock t3 turbo, FMIC, MSA 2.5 inch downpipe, BOV daily driver setup, on my N42/N42 Turbo L28 Build. Very excited!

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Okay, so I have continuted acquiring my turbo build pieces, I am very close to finishing.

Here's what I have purchased so far. (this is a N42/N42 combination head/block) 8.3:1 static compression with 2000 miles on a fresh rebuild


-Turbo oil pan

-Turbo oil pan pickup (rear sump)

-21x8x2.5 FMIC

-2.25'' aluminum intercooler piping

-Pallnet (barbed) fuel rail

-60mm 240sx Throttle body, and spacer, which I modified for the stock linkage.

-Stock 270cc injectors (until I tune the car)

-MSA 2.5'' Downpipe

-ACT 240mm Street Performance clutch kit



Those are the bigger pieces.

I have still yet to purchase the following items. (should happen throughout the next few weeks/winter)

-240mm Flywheel (preferably lightened)

-3 row aluminum radiator

-10 inch puller radiator fan (electric)to make room for the intercooler piping.

-Greddy Type- RZ blow off valve

-Oil Cooler

-Innovate LC-1 wideband

-Megasquirt II PCB v.3.0 (no longer going with the stock electronic swap, even after I labeled every wire from my donor harness haha..) smile.gif


I'm excited. As for the pictures, I haven't taken too many pictures but here's a mock up of my intercooler and piping (leading to those nice 6-1 headers hahaha)

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More to come!! Once I get my brass plugs today, I will start shaving my non egr n42 intake manifold. Pictures and write ups will follow!

Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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Okay. So while I wait for some goodies. (ACT Clutch/Pallnet fuel rail/240mm flywheel/exhaust flanges for 3'' exhaust etc...)

 

I started shaving my intake manifold. It is an N42 Non EGR intake manifold.

 

Eliminated all bungs except provisions for, the brake booster, the fuel pressure regulator, and a mechanical boost gauge.

 

I'll let the rest of the pictures do the talking.

 

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High Temp Primer

 

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Sanded-320 Wet

 

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Painted GM Blue

 

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Better outside pictures to come when the paint fully cures. I think it turned out great.

 

 

EDIT: outside pics!

 

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Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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Finished my intake manifold. I deleted the only previous remaining bung, and tapped an additional 1/16 npt hole for another dedicated vacuum line for my blow off valve)

 

So basically I had to repaint the whole thing.

 

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And I had just received my exhaust materials so I decided to pull my headers, and started to think, exhaust routing.

 

Here's a layout of how my exhaust will work out.

 

Stock T3 --> MSA Downpipe --> 2.5" - 3" Adapter (6" long) --> 3" Exhaust --> Dynomax Ultraflo muffler

 

I'll weld everything so it is one piece, except the muffler, because I want to keep that interchangeable. I added the flanges for ease. I was torn between using vband clamps, but I've had good luck with these flanges in the past, so I'm confident they will seal my exhaust plenty fine, especially with the gasket.

 

Here's a better representation.

 

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And with my headers off the car I was free to do my first mock up. I still have to pull my motor and swap parts, but I'm stoked with how clean the new setup will look.

 

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Everything fit!!!(one thing I forgot to mention is my relocation of the PCV valve on the N42 intake.)

 

Here's a picture

 

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Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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It's definitely getting colder. Ugh....heating season....Definitely jealous of you warm climate Z guys.

 

Anyways, I have been cutting, and mocking together my exhaust from the turbo back. I'll try to start welding the pieces together tomorrow, if I get the time.

 

Here are some initial pictures. Fitment is pretty good. Nothing that can't be tweaked.

 

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EDIT: NOV 29

 

Got my clutch today!

 

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Now I can pull my motor and swap oil pump, pickup, and pan! Yahoo!

Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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Finished up my exhaust, I'm going to clean up everything, prime it, and paint it all later.

 

For Christmas my car got some exhaust wrap, and a turbo wrap, so I've been playing with and modifying that.

 

Also, wrapped my exhaust manifold and the downpipe this morning. Ran out of zip ties too, so I had to finish it up for now with a couple doubled up plastic guys.

 

Here are some pictures. I'll edit it out later for the mock up pictures once they dry.

 

 

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Okay, so while the motor is out of the car, I touched up the block, and began the turbo conversion.

 

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Okay, now with the block looking fancy again.

 

I swapped my turbo oil pickup and installed my turbo oil pan, with the MSA gasket.

 

Since apparently NO TWO people do this the same way, and it's some sort of Dark Magic that makes these things NOT leak oil; I took the entire day to install this thing.

 

Parts used:

 

Turbo 280zx Oil Pan with stock metal trim pieces

 

Turbo 280zx Oil pickup tube with gasket

 

MSA 'Competition' Oil pan gasket

 

UltraBlack Permatex RTV sealant

 

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This is what I did. For the record. (mainly in case this leaks, so I know what NOT to do again.)

 

1. Removed the stock oil pan

 

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2. Removed the old gasket and CLEANED the area. Took extra special care to clean the surface with solvent, multiple times.

 

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3. Removed the stock oil pickup, once again cleaning the area underneath.

 

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4. Now I spent the better part of two hours carefully inspecting and massaging anything I deemed a "dimple" in the turbo oil pan. Test fit the pan numerous times to insure uniform contact throughout. I believe it's straight, I HOPE its straight.

 

5. Installed new gasket and Turbo pickup tube (torqued to roughly 7-8 ft-lbs)

 

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6. Cleaned and prepared both the surface of the block, and the pan once more.

 

7. Sparingly used the RTV to adhere the gasket to the oil pan. (roughly 1/8'' bead) No sealant is used between the block surface and the gasket surface.

 

8. Cleaned again.

 

9. Carefully set the pan on the block and began the put the bolts in place. Starting from opposite corners, and working my way evenly around the base of the motor. Used the 2 OEM trim pieces.

 

-Only finger tight for the first 12-24 hours. Will torque to 5-7 lbs once the RTV has been allowed to set.

 

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That's where I am now. Giving the RTV sufficient time to cure, before torquing.

 

 

Let me know if you guys think I did something way wrong, as I'd love to avoid a mistake with the motor still out of the car.

 

Who knows, maybe the oil will stay on the INSIDE this time. Fingers crossed!

 

 

 

Next step: Installation and timing of the turbo oil pump and the distributor drive shaft.

Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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Today I installed my Turbo Oil pump and distributor driveshaft. I filled the pump before installation.

 

Removed L28 oil pump and drive shaft

 

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In with the turbo

 

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checking the tang (11:25)

 

Motor is on 1 TDC (you can even see the damper in the last picture)

 

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Also while I had the vavle cover off to confirm timing, I decided to clean it up and respray it.

 

Here's the result.

 

Obligatory valve cover removed shot

 

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I officially have a turbo motor B)

Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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So I've been having some fun. Mocking everything up. Making sure it all fits. I will have to trim my wrap a little bit for decent clearances for manifold bolts, but other than that, all is indeed very well.

 

8 megapixel Engine pron..

 

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and here are a couple what I would consider "accurate" pictures of the valve cover. Turned out nice.

 

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and the finished (sans throttle body) N42 intake

 

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Exciting!!!

 

Updates to come!

 

EDIT: Mocked

 

 

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Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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The engine bay prep/refinishing stage is well underway.

 

I've spent the passed 4 days removing anything I didn't need in the bay, and rerouted my fuel feed to behind the motor. Then, I welded up any unused holes and got to sanding.

 

Pictures do the paint NO justice. But here goes...

 

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Also, I'm ordering an oil cooler this week, as that's one of the only remaining components I need in order to be able to put the motor back in the car.

 

 

 

 

EDIT: Untaped.

 

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Hard to see, but I rewrapped my headlight/charging harness.

 

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Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea

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The cross member has been painted, and I pulled my transmission so I can clean and paint the tunnel. Plus I am looking to source out some sort of 5 speed to replace my whiny 4 speed.

 

Ideally I'm looking for a 1980 5 speed. But I'd really be up for anything, and I'm throwing around the idea of the 240sx trans, but until then I'm still finishing up my last odds and ends for the turbo build.

 

But if anyone knows of any decent 5 speed transmissions for sale, willing to ship, let me know. I'll be needing one.

 

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