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yellowoctupus

460ZGT Project Build

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This PDF is from a Lexus training manual, it's got GREAT explanations of brake boosters etc. I really tried to put my tandem Dodge Viper booster in, but it majorly interferes with the valve cover. angry.gif

 

This is the reason I'm slow with my Z project --> my wife's 65 that we just finished a complete resto on this month.

 

DSC09770.jpg

brake05.pdf

Edited by yellowoctupus

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So, I finally got around to making a real cruise control switch panel, to update from my prototype box (earlier post, #24). I built my prototype box per the EVTM specs, and it worked perfectly (you use different switched resistors to select coast, acc, res etc).

 

On the latest revision however, I used the accel/coast rocker switch from a Ford steering wheel, and two momentary switches for 'on' and 'off'. The crazy thing is that it appears from the factory Ford made their circuit board backwards! At least it doesn't match up with the Mustang EVTM or the cruise control switch itself. The circuit board that the switches are soldered to is printed 'coast' under the 'accel' button and has the correct 'coast' resistor there. Which makes it operate backwards. Hit coast and it accelerates. Lol. What next?? Thankfully it's an easy fix, as I can just take it out (glad I wired in disconnects in my harness) and swap the resistors.

 

I just used the empty filler panel that sits next to the hazard and rear defroster switches. Nice of Nissan to think ahead for me smile.gif. Was there ever another option for that panel? I haven't seen one yet.

 

ebay_20120925007.jpg

Edited by yellowoctupus

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I'm in awe of the amount of work you have put in to this.

 

My wife agrees it's better than boozing and chasing women, so she lets me spend a ridiculous amount of time in the garage.

 

Nicely done! A bit less cumbersome than the 1st iteration. :D It will be nice to have cruise in the Z for those long highway trips.

 

Now that I shimmed up the engine mount on the passenger's side, the exhaust manifold doesn't vibrate into the frame, and in turn my foot no longer falls asleep after a 20min drive. Nonetheless I do love cruise, as I have fairly bad speed regulation (normally to the high side....)

 

Thanks for the props, I'm kinda whittling down the really neat projects, but I still have some maintenance items and a few more cosmetics to knock off my list. (Bushings, struts, paint/install the rear spoiler, new front carpet, finish up my gauges, align the headlights...hmm...wow. I need to spend more time looking at other people's projects and get some ideas for more work!)

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Well, I've got close to 8k miles on the swap now I think. I'm looking for work right now, so I'm trying to really buckle down and finish some of the stuff I've been meaning to do the last few years (v8 swap excluded).

 

My Dad always laughs when he's visits me; I think he's only been able to ride in it once. It's always in pieces for a supercharger, or engine swap, or transmission work or something else ridiculous. You're right, I probably should just drive it and enjoy for a while.

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Thank you sooooo much for sharing this with all of us. You really have a sweet ride. A chevy is nice but this is really classy and exotic and something totally different. I own a 1976 280z and a 1994 lincoln with a 4.6. The other day I was looking at the two and going Hmmmmmmm. So needless to say, I am really excited to see the pics and read about this. Please keep up the updates....Thanks, Coolness

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This PDF is from a Lexus training manual, it's got GREAT explanations of brake boosters etc. I really tried to put my tandem Dodge Viper booster in, but it majorly interferes with the valve cover. :angry:

 

This is the reason I'm slow with my Z project --> my wife's 65 that we just finished a complete resto on this month.

 

DSC09770.jpg

 

This is kinda funny, I have an S30 (obvious that I would own a Z car being on the site), and my Girlfriend has a '65 Mustang as well, that we are in the beginning stages of starting a build on. :D

 

You may want to consider something like this for the shifter:

http://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/speedshifter/index.html

Edited by Six_Shooter

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Yeah, they seem go to hand in hand. (Great minds think alike, etc.) I had a good friend in SC that when I met him, he and his dad both had 240's and he was building a 65 Mustang for his wife.

 

My wife's Mustang is on the road, pretty much all restored, runs great etc. And I have a 351w + 4sp I just got, 8.8 rear end, etc etc. Looks like it'll be back off the road for a little while.... :roll: Why don't all cars just come from the factory with the right engines. Oh boy Detroit, maybe someday you'll learn.

 

I didn't know anyone offered those shifters as an aftermarket unit. I found lots of guys who were making them for Miata swaps, and other T56 transplants. There is NO WAY I can fit something that big under the stock console unfortunately. I really wanted to run the B&M shifter that I got at a U Pull ($7!!!!) but it was entirely too large. All of the Ford guys say to run an aftermarket one with adjustable stops, as many of the blown T45/T56 trannies are due to overshifts with the stock Borg Warner/Tremec shifter. In the end, I made my shifter a 2 piece unit. If you follow the shifter handle down about 2" on the straight part of the shaft, I cut it, and made a coupling/clamp that fits under the boot. This was to get the shifter handle up higher, and to make getting the console in and out easier. Shifting feels great, I was REALLY surprised it wasn't all wonky.

Edited by yellowoctupus

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I'd like to add my thanks for the amount of detail you've supplied. Like many here I've been looking at my 240z that coming back from paint and thinking since it's not the original L24 in it why not put the 2001 4.6 4v SVT I have in it. I've got it soup to nuts from the tranny to the dash wiring. I've read ALL the post here on the ford v8's and while some others have worked on the 4v swap none I've read are on the road. Even though yours is a 2v seeing it on the road helps. I believe between the other 4v post and what you have here I can sort it out. Before the critics start in I'll state I already own that 4v ( was intended for my Studebaker) and can't really afford to see it sit while I fork out more cash for a chevy LS. Also, like a lot of folks here it seems kind of cool to open the hood and see nothin' but motor!

 

Thanks again for sharing all this with us.

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cool ride man that grease by the way looks like Marine grease. it is that light blue turquoise color. actually pretty good stuff to use for normal applications. if you don't need high temp or any specialty grease it does just as good a job as normal grease and is slightly better at repelling water

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After who knows how many miles on my Z conversion (10k?), I finally tore apart the speedometer (1994 T-Bird) to see why the odometer didn't work, and it turns out all the little gears were broken.  Pretty cool how it does work though.  There's a little motor that 'pulses' once a second or so (at 27mph) and turns the whole mechanism a little tiny bit every pulse.  (Maybe a stepper motor?) Thankfully it's separate from the speedometer motor, so the speedo does still work.

 

FORD--->Speedometer and Tachometer checking/ calibration site: 

 

http://www.accutach.com/Documents/TestingTachSpeedoR1.pdf

 

Took me about an hour to find that old link via google today.  BUT, the testing procedure for speedometers worked like a charm.  I happened to have a regulated 12v supply (use an old computer power supply if you don't have a formal unit) and a 15VAC wall transformer out of a 'jump start pack'. 

 

I was going to take pictures for a 'how to' but these guys did a great job of that already:

 

http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/Instructions/Speedo%20-%20Odo%20Repair%20Inst..htm

Edited by yellowoctupus

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So, after about two dozen times taking the odometer drive all apart, and back together etc I finally got it working.  Took three tachs at the junkyard before I found one with good gears.  Guess this isn't such a rare failure, eh?   One of the gears I got looks like it's already been replaced too.  Beats the heck out of me paying for repops!  The cheapest I could find was $43 for the set.  Neither one is bigger than a nickle.  Crazy. 

 

I also took about a day to spruce my gauges up, fixing the 'gaps' left at the bottom, and getting the turn signal lights working with the stock Datsun arrows and getting a check engine and hi beam light on.  They look really good in the car, down in the pods you can't even tell there's seams from things being pieced together. 

 

This picture is with flash so you can see what I did to get things 'right':

 

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I had my haz lights on to get this one.  Should have turned on the hi beams and ignition for the other two, but that's ok.

 

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Edited by yellowoctupus

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Minor update, been driving the car between 140-80mi/day depending on my mood, and I'm getting 24+mpg.  Might have to find some bigger tires/different rear end gears to get some better mileage.  Not bad for a V8, but I think it can be a bit better ~27?

 

So, this is my radio control; it has an input (on top) output (going to the black wire, then right to the amp) and now a volume knob, so you don't have to fish around for the Mp3 player, walkman whatever that's the input to adjust the volume.  The switch is the power switch to the amp so it's not just ON when you don't want to be jammin' :

 

 

DSC01596.jpg

Edited by yellowoctupus

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Cool another convert!  Where are you on your swap?  You realize that now YOU have to start putting up pics too :)  The gauges took me too long to put in because I'm kinda anal.  I trimmed down a bit of the speedo/tach pod to get things right, and they work pretty good now.  I think I could have used two speedo pods and then the back lights would have been easier to work with, but I didn't want to chop up too many sets of gauges.  Seeing how little they cost me, it really wouldn't matter, but oh well.  They do work pretty well.

 

DSC00018s.jpg

 

 

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Edited by yellowoctupus

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Cool another convert!  Where are you on your swap?  You realize that now YOU have to start putting up pics too :)  The gauges took me too long to put in because I'm kinda anal.  I trimmed down a bit of the speedo/tach pod to get things right, and they work pretty good now.  I think I could have used two speedo pods and then the back lights would have been easier to work with, but I didn't want to chop up too many sets of gauges.  Seeing how little they cost me, it really wouldn't matter, but oh well.  They do work pretty well.

 

I'm using a 95 mark viii motor with a 96-98 cobra intake, IMRC runners, cobra exhaust manifolds and a cobra T45. I've got the engine/ tranny in the car under its own weight. Everything is welded and shouldn't need to come back out for a while. Now I'm in the middle of all the little BS small tasks that waste your whole day. I've got the clutch master/ slave stuff pretty much done(used a bunch of your ideas). I think the exhaust is the next project to tackle then it's the wiring. This is my dads account because I gave up trying to get mine validated after about 10 attempts so the project is being documented on Ratsun.net pretty in depth.

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Most excellent work so far.  I'm guessing this is  your write-up:  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54796-1974-260z-46dohc/

 

Couple of things to note, the Mark 8 headers are nice because you can 'work' (cut/weld) them for better exit angles to get around frame rails, steering and what not.  Wish I had that option when I dealt with exhaust and my stupid cast manifolds. 

 

Make sure you have the master cylinder you need for that stroke. I know the wilwood slave only comes in one size; I had to run a 1" master cylinder to get the full stroke out of the slave after I put in a new clutch.  A 3/4" MC would probably work with a worn clutch though, so be careful (especially if you can still return the 3/4" one...).

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