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Wiring help? I'm ready to fire this beast up

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Please, tell me what I might be doin wrong. The relay in the system is sticking on even after I turn the key switch off. The coil and resister continues to get hot. I think I ran the a power to the relay from the ignition side of the solenoid instead of the coil, but I didn't think that would make a difference. I used the black/yellow for my starter wire, a thick white wire for power. I'm not sure why this is occuring. Anyone who is good with wiring, I would appreciate a little advice. I hate wiring. As soon as I lift the battery cable off I hear the relay click open again. I'm really ready to take this thing for a drive, but I need to finish welding up the transmission bracket and fill it with fluids. And I need to figure out how the transmission cable connects, because I got it without any brackets or anything for the cable.

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You don't provide many details about your install such as:

 

 

- Is this a JTR install ?

 

- Did you use an HEI distributor?

 

- How did you wire the distributor?

 

- How did you wire the fuel pump? Per JTR with an oil pressure switch?

 

- Did you follow the JTR wiring instructions?

 

- Where is the relay located? Is it the relay mounted to the passenger kick panel?

 

- Why did you run an ignition wire to the relay? Do you mean a fuel pump relay or the relay on the passsenger side kick panel?

 

- Did you change or modify the ignition switch wiring?

 

- Where did you connect the wires? Include wire color and tracer color.

 

 

The more details you provide the easier it will be for someone to help diagnose the problem.

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sorry. I think that last diagram wasn't too helpful. Its a duraspark ignition system, HEI distributor. I think I might have screwed up the curcuit, and the coil might be getting 12v all the time instead of just on start up. I found a voltometer and I'll be testing a few of those things tonight.

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The starter seems to be right. To me it sounds like a run-on problem. I had that and if you search msd run-on you will find many articles on it and how to install a diode or even relay if you want. Still couldn't figure it out personally so I put in a kill switch to the switched 12v supply to the ignition box.

Edited by 240zBoy

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sorry. I think that last diagram wasn't too helpful. Its a duraspark ignition system, HEI distributor. I think I might have screwed up the curcuit, and the coil might be getting 12v all the time instead of just on start up. I found a voltometer and I'll be testing a few of those things tonight.

 

The wiring diagrams are for different years of the Datsun. Need the year Datsun, VIN number and date of manufacture to determine the appropriate wiring diagram. Then you need to identify the wire colors used from the original Datsun wiring and where you connected them and for what purpose. In other words, you need someone with a VERY GOOD electronics/electrical and automotive background to advise you on the wiring and modifications to same. I have 40+ years experience in Aviation Electrical/Electronics and I still have difficulties with Datsun Wiring Diagrams. And I have a 1971 Datsun 240Z which will get a High Power modified V8 and all the weaknesses WILL be taken OUT of the Datsun Wiring after much research.

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As far as I can tell I have most of it right. I just replaced the resistor today (was using a stock datsun resistor which I thought might work because it is 1.6 ohm and the ford calls for 1.35) I'm using a thick white wire for main power connected to the posative battery(on the solenoid) and a black wire with yellow stripe going to S on the solenoid (start). I don't quite understand the duraspark wiring diagram above, because as far as I am aware there are supposed to be two curcuits to the posative side of the coil (one through the coil at 8 volts to the coil when running, and one direct at 12 volts upon starting.) should I just skip the damn relay, can I? Could I skip the relay, and run start (black/yellow)to solenoid (S post) and then run a wire for normal running power to the coil through the resistor and the red duraspark wire and fire it up? I might just be complicating it further than I need to. I would like to have the cleanest simplest wiring possible. And aside from this does the engine need to be completely level? I have been battling this B.S. premade engine cross member that I bought. I don't want to pull the engine out right now, but basically I really need to modify it to hold the engine about 1" lower and then I need to shift it about 1" back, and then everything will fit like a glove. but at that point I might have a problem with the location of the Stabilizer bar steel cup and the exauhst, and I would have to shorten the driveshaft again.... but I can't just lower it where it is (to level it) because then I'm not going to be able to make the steering collumn fit. move one thing, and ten other things don't fit.... hmmmm.

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Ok. Here is the correct diagram. I have everything connected as directed. I'm using black/yellow strip to ignition (START post on solenid) and a thick white wire to the posative direct power. Everything else is what the diragram is saying, And the small light blue wire from the relay is connected to the S post on the solenoid. Maybe it is working.. I'm getting spark but it won't fire (on starting fluid). I pulled out first spark plug, set engine to top dead center and lined up the rotor with cylinder 1. Why would it not fire. I know this is a slightly older post, but I have all my info and it still isn't firing! why? Please help. I have no clue what would cause it not to fire if there is spark and I having the timing lined up (atleast close enough to get a response)

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