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TheZkid    0

Thank you, they are Milspec connectors. Real easy to engage and disengage. The pictures are from the engine bay side right under the battery tray.

 

 

Wow, you have literally taken home the bread in every aspect.. Putting our Z-Car guys name in the clouds on this build.. Your patience, commitment and loyalty to this car is very, very well respected on this forum.. I speak for everyone when I say we ALL want to see you over come all of the problems that everything and EVERYONE throws your way.

 

What an incredible build. This project will probably go down in Z history for nicest swap. No joke. Massive respect and kudos to you.

 

Have a question now, I see you used the J C I engine mounts correct? So, I see you had a problem with the headers fitting?

 

Im wondering what headers you used to not fit// im sure it would be a combination of the engine itself and all of your additions in there.

I am STILL TRYING to get an engine mount kit PLUS headers that will NOT make you redo your steering rack in a 280 ls1/ls2 swap..

 

Again, I know you have it in you to finish, you've already shown incredible patience and persistence!

 

Keep on truckin my friend - We're ALL behind you!! 

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alainburon    3

Thank you for all the kind words, I really appreciate it. My inspiration for this build has come from this website. There are a lot of awesome builds here.

 

Yes sir I used the JCI engine mounts. As for the headers I got the ones from 417 Motorsports. They were the 1st to make long tube headers for the S30 LS swap and had a group buy in this site. The problem I had was the O2 bung on the driver's side header was in the wrong clock position and the O2 sensor would hit the transmission. Also the bolt that holds the steering shaft to the knuckle close to the fire wall was hitting on the primaries. I used small spacers between the driver's side motor mount and the engine block to move the header away from the steering shaft and used a bolt with a much smaller head on the steering shaft. Thank god that solved the problem. I did have to send the header to be re-ceramic coated once I had the bung relocated to the right clock position.  

 

Not major problems but time consuming and frustrating. I always keep saying "if it's not one thing it's the next" but in all honesty it will be all worth it when I get the car on the road as there won't be another one just like it. Especially since most swaps are going turbo now.

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alainburon    3

The main thing I wanted to accomplish was for the fuel tank not to hang down below the rear valance as well as the tank not being inside the car like most fuel cells since this is not a race car.

 

I was able to finish installing the fuel tank this weekend, I had a 2 inch inlet tube made for it in order to use the factory fuel filler neck. Made the braided lines and tested them under 500 psi of pressure for leaks. The tank has an AN10 outlet which steps down to a AN8 at the fuel filter. It has an AN6 for the return from the fuel rail and an AN8 for the vent. It's a shame all the work we put in for something that will never be seen....LOL

 

 

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alainburon    3

Exceptional as usual. I always enjoy and am inspired by your updates.

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it sir.

 

Very nicely done sir! Do you know how many gallons that cell will hold?

Thank you, it will hold 19 1/5 gallons.

 

God it's kinda depressing reading this and seeing how crappy my skills are in comparison to yours. Well done, sir.

Thanks, I learned a lot during this build and I'm not as good as a lot of guys here that are true fabricators.

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alainburon    3

I bought a couple of Deutsch connector brackets and modified them to hold the O2 sensor harness on the side of the transmission instead of having it hang with zip ties. I just did not want to take a chance and have one of them come loose and land on the headers. I'm working on making the cold air intake as well as running my Nitrous line and filter into the cabin next.

 

 

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alainburon    3

I had an aluminum bracket made for my ECU which fastens to the same location where all the original wiring connectors where located behind the glove box. I was able to mount the ECU on the inside of the bracket and my Nitrous controllers and relays on the front in order to have access for adjustments if needed. I’m using a stinger distribution block to provide power from the battery to the fuse panel, amplifier, relays and ECU relay/fuse box.

 

The ECU has its own stand-alone fuse box and relay panel. I wanted to have as much of the wiring and computers as possible inside the car to avoid unnecessary clutter in the engine bay. Having the ECU, its relay/fuse box, 2 Nitrous Controllers and the fuse panel for the rest of the car inside the car it has become quite a challenge to be able to fit everything without it looking like a rats nest of wiring. It looks like we are very close to completing the wiring.

 

It has been a long road but the end result should be worth it as all the wiring in the car would have been replaced, not just what comes in a universal wiring kit.

 

ECU Mounting.JPG

Stinger Distribution Block.JPG

NOS Controller.JPG

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alainburon    3
3 hours ago, surpip said:

hopefully you are doing well after the hurricane? mine should be out of paint soon I would love to come down and go out to a meet or something!

Thanks, it was close as the water was rising pretty fast. I had my car on jack stands at the highest setting they will go and we were lucky the water did not get to the garage but our subdivision was flooded so getting out was impossible.

I look forward to getting together for a meet. Anytime you are in town look me up. 

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texis30O    26

There you go again..... baller status.  lol.  I figured you would be good with that steep driveway.  Next time I get a break I will drop by.  I have some changes coming on my car again..... keep up the work as always you are setting the bar.

 

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alainburon    3
6 hours ago, texis30O said:

There you go again..... baller status.  lol.  I figured you would be good with that steep driveway.  Next time I get a break I will drop by.  I have some changes coming on my car again..... keep up the work as always you are setting the bar.

 

Thanks Sean, I appreciate that sir. Yea come by anytime. It seems like I'm always in the garage working on the car, I want to see yours in person. Looks really good in the pictures. We should be able to fire it up mine in the next 2 weeks. 

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alainburon    3

We had to relocate the wiper delay module to the driver’s side foot well due to spacing constraints in the passenger side area. I was able to get the Cable X Box as well as the T56 Reverse Lock Out Module in the same spot. That’s where the factory ECU was located therefore everything is hidden behind the original ECU cover.

 

We are using a Milspec connector to run all the T56 Reverse Lock Out Module, master cylinder, Temperature sensor (for Home Link Rear View Mirror), windshield washer pump and engine bay light wiring through the firewall next to the brake booster.

Cable X Box.JPG

Cable X Box-2.JPG

Transmission Milspec Connector-2.JPG

Transmission Milspec Connector.JPG

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