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78 280Z LS3 Project


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#21 alainburon

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 11:09 AM

Update,

Today I received the R200 back from John at Betamotorsports and I have to say I'm very pleased with his customer service and workmanship. The R200 was completely rebuilt with new bearings, seals and a OS Giken Super Lock LSD unit was installed. The case was powder coated to match the T56 transmission, driveshaft and CV axles.

Still waiting on a opening at the fab shop for the frame rail and fuel tank work not to mention a reply from Ross at MM.

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#22 alainburon

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 02:36 PM

More parts came in. :)

I received the CV parts from Rockford CV's and the axles back from powder coating. I was able to assemble them without any issues and flipped both cages as per the MM instructions.
I also received the front and rear Suspension Techniques anti sway bars. So far I'm happy with the quality of all the parts I have received but I have to say my budget is alreadt shot. :(
Oh well, I had a feeeling that was going to happen.

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#23 RebekahsZ

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 08:13 AM

You have got to have the prettiest rear-end on the planet. ...Did that sound a little funny? Seriously, think about putting a plexiglass window in floor your back hatch - seems crazy to put all that powder coating where nobody can admire it. At least put some mirrors on the floor of your garage. Looks great, hang in there and for goodness's sake, don't scratch anything!

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#24 alainburon

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:44 AM

You have got to have the prettiest rear-end on the planet. ...Did that sound a little funny? Seriously, think about putting a plexiglass window in floor your back hatch - seems crazy to put all that powder coating where nobody can admire it. At least put some mirrors on the floor of your garage. Looks great, hang in there and for goodness's sake, don't scratch anything!



It did sound a little funny....lol
Thanks for the compliment. This car's main purpuse is street/show, it will never see rain, that's the reason for all the powder coating. I will try a represent my Z community well.

Edited by alainburon, 13 June 2011 - 12:46 AM.


#25 rsicard

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 08:58 AM

Alainburon:

How does one locate Rockford CV's? Are they on the Internet or is there an address and phone number? Please advise. Thanks.

#26 alainburon

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 03:58 AM

Alainburon:

How does one locate Rockford CV's? Are they on the Internet or is there an address and phone number? Please advise. Thanks.


They are on the internet at rockforddriveline.com and their phone number is 815-962-1411.

#27 alainburon

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 10:27 AM

Just got my John's Cars driveshaft back from the machine shop after being powder coated. Working on sourcing the proper metric grade 8 bolts for it.

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Edited by alainburon, 20 June 2011 - 10:28 AM.


#28 RebekahsZ

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 09:22 AM

Just went thru this and wrote a little thread. 5/16 is so close to 8mm that I can't tell any difference. Metric has some weird spec (10.9) that isn't the same as "grade 8," so I went with 5/16 grade 8 bolts. Had to order them long and cut them off to be correct length and have a long enough shank. Source and part numbers are in the thread. Thread is located on page 2 of this forum entitled: Driveshaft Bolts for JCI driveshaft

Edited by RebekahsZ, 22 June 2011 - 09:27 AM.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#29 alainburon

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Posted 11 July 2011 - 11:08 AM

Not much progress so far except I received my wheels back from Centerline. They did an excellent job in polishing the wheels back to a like new finish.

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Edited by alainburon, 11 July 2011 - 11:09 AM.


#30 SUNNY Z

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Posted 11 July 2011 - 06:29 PM

Just went thru this and wrote a little thread. 5/16 is so close to 8mm that I can't tell any difference. Metric has some weird spec (10.9) that isn't the same as "grade 8," so I went with 5/16 grade 8 bolts. Had to order them long and cut them off to be correct length and have a long enough shank. Source and part numbers are in the thread. Thread is located on page 2 of this forum entitled: Driveshaft Bolts for JCI driveshaft


haha I thought you guys were working waaaaay too hard. I just used standard all along :blink:

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1978 280Z - LS1 / T56
 

 


#31 RebekahsZ

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Posted 11 July 2011 - 06:48 PM

Well why didn't you say so before! Help a brother out for cryin' out loud! By the way, thanks for allowing you car to be test car for headers. I wonder who will be the first to do dyno before and after runs(?)

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#32 alainburon

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:59 AM

Well after several months of waiting I finally have a spot at the local fab shop that will be installing the frame rails and building my fuel tank. They stay very busy and it's difficult to get your car in there but well worth the wait.

I removed the dash and shipped it to Dash Restorations USA for full restoration. It should look like it did from the factory. Those guys do awesome work.
Also removed all A/C components and replaced the heater core. Ordered a new evaporator and expasion valve along with a new condenser.

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#33 MrCleburn

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 11:38 AM

Mind posting or shooting me a PM on how much the dash restoration was? There is a place called just dashes or something in cali I was thinking of using just want to compare prices.

thanks-
Pat
One time I had this pet rattlesnake and I fed him some beer... He was all F*@%ed up!

#34 alainburon

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 03:21 PM

Mind posting or shooting me a PM on how much the dash restoration was? There is a place called just dashes or something in cali I was thinking of using just want to compare prices.

thanks-
Pat


The dash will cost me $975, I thought of using Just Dashes but these guys were a little cheaper vs. the $1500 that Just Dashes quoted me and do the same quality work. Hope this helps.

#35 MrCleburn

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 05:23 PM

The dash will cost me $975, I thought of using Just Dashes but these guys were a little cheaper vs. the $1500 that Just Dashes quoted me and do the same quality work. Hope this helps.


Ya thats sounds alot more reasonable than what just dashes quoted me as well. I won't need it done for a few months but im trying to get an idea of how much my project is gonna run me. Trying to plan out for it instead of jumping in and not keeping track of my spending. I'd like to keep the total bill under 15k, considering what I bought the car for should be fairly easy. Thanks a ton for the info and keep up the good work on the car! I can't wait to see it when its done.

I just noticed your in Houston, maybe I will get to see this car in person when its done! :)

-Pat

Edited by MrCleburn, 08 January 2012 - 05:24 PM.

One time I had this pet rattlesnake and I fed him some beer... He was all F*@%ed up!

#36 surpip

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 05:50 PM

Looks awsome, I would love to come down form Killeen/Ft Hood area to see it when its done!
"The unwilling, led by the incompetent, to do the unnecessary, for the ungrateful" [found inscribed on a vietnam-era coffin]
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#37 alainburon

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 07:23 PM

Thanks for the compliments guys. You can come see the car anytime. I'm taking it friday to the fab shop then it goes to the body shop. It should be back in my garage in a few months. Follow this thread as I will be posting my progress.

#38 alainburon

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 11:13 AM

Dropped off the car at the fab shop. They will be installing Bad Dog frame rails and building me an aluminum fuel tank to be able to run dual exhaust and still maintain the stock fuel gauge sending unit. Will post pictures once the tank is built.

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#39 alainburon

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 08:15 AM

Just came back from the fab shop. They have installed the bad dog frame rails. They have also completed the fuel tank and also notched the front differential mount for dual exhaust. Tank is 17.5 gallons (more than I expected and it does not hang down much past the rear valance. Still have to remove the tank to send the stock fuel sending unit to be rebuilt. It seems nobody makes those anymore and I want to keep my stock gauges. also would like to have the straps that hold the tank in place powder coated or chromed, I have not decided yet.

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#40 rags

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 08:39 AM

Finished in a week?!?! And looks great! Must be nice to live in a part of the country where you can find a quality fab shop :)

Joe

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"The only way you're truly going to know how well it will work is to build it yourself and not listen to ney-sayers.If I listened to them, I wouldn't have successfully built half the stuff I have. ;)" - Six_Shooter

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'87 Grand National

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