mazikowski

Checked the voltage at the battery while cranking and it shows 10.5 just like the voltmeter. I wasn't able to work on it this weekend, but it looks like I will just be replacing the wiring back to the connector.

The battery reads about 12.5v just sitting and the voltmeter in the dash shows it drop to about 10.5-11v when cranking... I don't know if I exactly trust the accuracy of that meter, though, so I will try to check it with a multimeter tonight. I just don't know what could have happened between driving it in the garage and now. Worst case, I do what I was considering originally and run some new wires to the pump.

I have a non-turbo '81 280zx that has decided it doesn't want to start. To give a little background it had been running just fine but had some teeth missing on the flywheel. It drove into the garage completely under its own power (after a push-start, lol) where I placed it on stands and replaced the fly and clutch. I am also replacing the rear calipers, for what it's worth. Anyway, after I got the transmission and everything back in I wanted to start it and make sure nothing was binding or making weird noises. The starter works and the engine turns just fine but won't start. I checked spark at the distributor and I'm getting a solid arc between the cap and the wire... enough to jump through the rubber dipped handles on my pliers. Next thing I checked was the fuel pump. When the ignition is turned to the ON position I can hear the pump try to spin but it makes more of a dull thud sound and that's it. I pulled it off and used some test leads to hook it straight to the battery and it ran just fine, spewing what fuel was in it all over the garage. I plugged it back in without the fuel lines attached and, again, all I get is the dull thud. Using a multimeter to check the voltage at the fuel pump plug (green and black wires) I only see 7-8 volts at the connector while cranking. Can anybody think of a reason for the low voltage at the connector? I am considering just wiring the pump up to the ignition through a new relay, but would rather fix it proper if I can.

I may be asking for a miracle here, but any updates on this build?

S30 or S130?

Just reread the write up and found my answer... darn.

Thanks for that link! I have missed that one.

I am thinking about putting some aftermarket gauges (speedo, tach, the lot...) in my 280ZX, but don't know how well they will fit. Anyone have a spare gauge cluster sitting around and can take some measurements? I'm after the diameter for the speedo/tach, the fuel/water temp, and the 3 gauges in the center. Sorry if this has been answered somewhere else, I wasn't able to find any actual numbers.

About how much higher than the stock seats do the RSX seats sit? I'm 6'3", so I can't afford to lose much headroom.

I have noticed for some time that the steering on my 81 280ZX feels very loose. By "loose" I mean I can move the steering wheel a good inch or two to eiteher side and the wheels don't budge. The car doesn't have rack and pinion steering, instead it has a power steering box (recirculating ball, I think it's called). I tried tightening the adjuster on top of the box and it took some of the extra play out, but it still has WAY more than I want. First I thought it could be the tie rods or that rubber bit in the steering column. I had someone move the wheel (without turning the tires) and could tell that the play seemed to be between the lower portion of the steering column and the box. My 82 ZX with rack and pinion power steering wonderfully tight steering. Does anyone have any suggestions on getting the steering to tighten up?

Thanks, henrycas! I guess I just didn't search quite right to run across that thread. I will definitely be doing that.

I installed an HID projector kit and now the headlight out warning in the instrument cluster stays on whenever I have the headlights on. I know this is because it doesn't see enough of a power draw (or enough resistance, maybe?) from the headlight circuit, since now it is just turning on the relay powering the ballasts. My question is: has anyone run into this before and what did you do to solve it? I plan on playing around with it some this weekend to try and figure it out but if someone can throw something out before then that would be great!

Thanks, Tony! I guess I just didn't search hard enough.

Alright guys, I've looked all over and haven't been able to turn up much of anything. I'm going to be putting some aftermarket guages in the ZX (including speedometer) and I can't figure out how to get the speed signal. I know the stock guages have a VSS built into the speedometer for the cruise, but I am trying to do away with the stock speedometer. I've seen adapters of some sort before that connect to the cable drive on the transmission and provide you with a signal, but I can't find anything like that now that I'm actually looking. I was also wondering if there might be a VSS from another vehicle that would work as a replacement for the cable drive? The speedometer I'm getting allows for calibration, so I don't need any specific number of pulses or anything.

I am looking for the combination switch and harness pigtail for the ligths (preferably with cruise) for an 82 280ZX non-turbo. If anyone has one (need switch AND harness pigtail), how much including shipping to 35761 Alabama?