10cjennings

Woah, haven't posted on this site in years. A 280z I bought came with a rear tow hitch, I thought it was crazy. I might have some pics before I took it off the car. It's sitting in my garage taking up space if anybody wants it.

Have a locksmith (or shady friend lol) pick the lock? Seems like a better idea then hacking up your current glove box just to get inside. I think there are also ways they can disassemble the lock and make a key with the correct pattern.

What is the difference between those two? Thanks, Chris J.

SO I'm finally getting started on my 280z project, and the first order of business is suspension. I know I'm going to go with a Koni Yellow/ GC Coil over sleeve but I'm not sure what exact parts to order. I know what goes into installing these shocks but considering they don't label any of their parts (at least I haven't found any) as specific for an S30 I'm unsure of which part numbers to look for. If it matters the car is a 78 280z, and I think I'm going to be running welded in camber plates (though unsure), and I'd like to run something a bit stiffer then the "typical" 200/250 rate (Ie if they made something like 220/280 that'd be great) Thanks, Chris J.

Looks great on those wheels, your car looks like a much cleaner version of my 280 (similar blue color, once I get my 240z bumpers on it'll look even more similar)...I'm loving that 86 in the back round as well, any details on that?

I pulled all 3 of those nuts, as well as the three bolts from the outside of the car (they pass through the rear sheet metal, located around where the exhaust exits) and the shock still wont budge. I've got to be missing something, but I can't figure out what it is.

So I'm in the process of removing my rear bumper, and the rear shocks so I can install my 240z bumper using ZCCJDM's brackets. I've got the tank lowered and moved out of the way (that only really matters for the passenger side mount anyways). On the driver side mount I removed the 3 16mm Bolts, as well as one 10mm bolt which is holding this shroud/cover piece to the shock, but the shock won't budge. I can feel what seems to be another small 10mm bolt which is holding the shroud to the shock (it's in the small space between the right side of the shock and the body sheet metal) but I can't get to it with any wrench. Considering the shock isn't moving I'm guessing there are other bolts which I can't see yet because they are being covered by the shroud/cover. What bolts am I missing that need to be removed? Thanks, Chris J.

I'd say he clearly is making a point not to thrown around any specifics in his thread. He's asking for help from someone and I'd think he'd give out the specifics (Amount, to whom ect.) once someone actually expressed interest in helping him through PM. No point in telling all the details of his situation for everyone to see. He also said he PM'd one of the admins and didn't receive any reply, not that the admin acknowledged his situation and did nothing....Maybe the message never made it, maybe the admin never saw it, ect. He's not really accusing them of doing anything wrong. and to Midnight, I'd say try and contact an actual lawyer to see what you can legally do to try and get your money back. The people on this site are really helpful but for something like this I'd say contact someone you know is a professional.

Just drilled another hole in its mounting plate so that it got spaced off the strut tower another inch or so. The strut bar dropped right in, taking the car out on it's first drive I'd say there's a definitely noticeable difference in the front end responsiveness when pushing it hard in the corners. Even with my basically stock set-up. I'm sure as more suspension upgrades are installed the added stiffness will be more significant. For $120/each I'd say these definitely aren't the suspension upgrades which will give you the biggest improvement for your dollar (Bang/Buck), but if you're planning on doing a large amount of suspension upgrades (as I'm currently getting into) these are parts I'd definitely add to the list.

My MSA Front/Rear strut bars arrived in the mail yesterday for my 1978 280z. I got the rear installed last night (Looks like a really solid part, great fitment, appears to be of high quality), and it didn't take more then half an hour. Today I moved on to the front strut bar and I ran into a small problem. Where the bar mounts up to the passenger side strut there's some (appears to be electrical) piece in the way. It looks like something I could modify/relocate but I'm not even sure what it is. Any help ID'ing the part, and any ideas on how I should go about modifying it would be great. It's the lower left cylindrical piece, to the right/above the top of the strut.

I wouldn't have even thought of the Cam gear thing...It looks like it clears it fine, so I'm just gonna run a bead of Hi-Temp Silicone along the mating edges of the VC and the Block tommorrow, torque the bolts down to decently tight. Let the silicone sit for about an hour, then torque them down to 12 Ft/lbs.

Wow, that was ridiculously informative....Thanks!

I've been having nothing but trouble with the 2 Cork Gaskets I've got (They keep warping, breaking their seal and leaking oil). So I'm just gonna use a good bead Sealant instead, should do the trick.

I've looked through my PC copy of the 280z FSM and can't seem to find what the correct Tightening sequence is for the L28 Valve Cover. I'm sure it's the standard corner to corner method, but I'm on my last gasket and I'd rather just verify and make sure I do it correctly. Thanks, Chris J.

Yeah, I'll be doing that tomorrow, as well as sourcing a new VC gasket (It got a little beat up in the process of removing the VC and I'd rather just replace it.