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dhartig

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About dhartig

  • Birthday 02/14/1963

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  • Location
    Cambridge, Ontario, Canada

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  1. It just makes it. I had to "crush" my air filter about 1/16 and make sure it has a flat nut on top.
  2. Fuel + spark + timing = running engine. You have spark, how it smooth it runs tells you timing. Clean your injectors and check your fuel pump pressure. Carb conversion will need different fuel pump and is a long process. Start with the easy stuff. BTW, the period (.) can be your friend.
  3. Please keep us informed as I think many people would be interested in these if they work well.
  4. I agree it sounds like a vacuum leak. There may also be an issue in the fuel delivery. Do you have a good pressure gauge you can put into the fuel line to check this? If you see pressure issue check the fuel filter (if you have one), and you might want to pull apart the fuel pump to see if there is anything caught inside it.
  5. Normal compression numbers should be in the range of 135 -160 psi. Just make sure the readings are close on all cylinders. Check the state of the plugs too as that will tell a story. Also look for evidence of oil leaks. If you are going to seriously play with the engine in the future I would suggest you consider a/m ECU now. There is plenty of info in the MS section that will keep you going.
  6. Cooler intake air = greater density = more power + less chance of detonation. If your intercooler gives a good temperature then all is fine. Some of us run old Turbo Tom systems which is draw thru carb setup. No intercooler allowed as fuel might pool in it. Meth injection provides alternate cooling method. High CR engines also like water injection. www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html
  7. On my '72 I have taken the oil pan out and replaced it. No problems doint that with the engine in except some of the bolts are a PITA.
  8. Good to hear your car is getting back into action. Time can easily slip by. I started the install of the Turbo Tom kit on my '72 a two Xmas ago with the plan of getting it running by spring. Here it is a year later and its now just down off the stands. Its that stupid "working for a living" thing that gets in the way. Time spent with your kids though is always well invested.
  9. At the $200 - $250 I would be interested in 0.6 mm and 1.25 mm or something similar, for 89 mm bores. It would be interesting to see prices for water jet cut copper gaskets on volume buys vs Cometic.
  10. I have driven SU's and the Holley 390. I thought both were about the same performance if properly tuned. Here is the old thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/27905-4-barrel-intake-the-facts/
  11. I'm off to China in a couple of days. From what they told me on previous trips they don't really have "rules of the road", there more like "guidelines". Great expressways. It would be fantasitic to run 250+ kph in the countryside. It might be a little hairy when you come up behind the old blue trucks doing 40 kph, but that is why they have such nice wide shoulders. Lots of driving styles there. Had a minivan driver once who would get it up to about 160 kph, then shift into neutral and coast back down to 50 to improve his gas mileage.
  12. My fuel pump is switch operated which acts kind of like a theft deterrent. Thankfully I haven't had to test out its effectiveness. Use rubber grommets to offset and dampen the noise transmission.
  13. Sorry but $3,000 is probably not going to get you a 3.1 liter engine unless you have great connections and access to a good machine shop. And the 3.1 will be tempermental unless done properly. The good news is there is a ton of good info here on getting 300 Hp out of modifying the standard 2.8 liter. Start searching and see how others have gotten there. I would also suggest checking if your suspension and brakes are 300 Hp rated. Here's a good link to various engine builds. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
  14. You might consider watching sales of Z's to get an idea of current value. Check Ebay for a week and you will have a pretty good idea of current avg prices by model and condition. $5k should buy a nice Z, and $10 a great one. Awesome = $$$. Just about anything on a Z is fixable, but some are too far gone because of rust and make better parts cars than restoration projects. If you let people know what your plans are for the car (reliable DD, high performance street, track, etc.) they will probably jump in.
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