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tvgz28

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About tvgz28

  • Birthday 07/01/1989

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    sylva nc

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  1. I think you will really like the 6262 on the L24, i have one with a .68 ex housing on my 1jz and it spools around 4k so it should be similar on a 2.4. Does yours have the antisurge housing?
  2. Well on my 1jzgte it was doing the same thing until i enabled the noise filtering. On your composite logger the top green line is the cam input, middle red is crank trigger, and bottom is sync error i think. If the pcb was configured wrong i dont believe that you would see any signal at all. On the cas does the 360 tooth wheel and the 6 tooth wheel both output on the same B/W wire? Also im not sure if the 6-1 configuration would support anything other then batch fire due to low resolution. One more thing, when you get your trigger right you can look at the gauge screen in tunerstudios on the lower right you'll see a little indicator that says sync will light up.
  3. I took some more pictures today of the engine and radiator. This is pretty much the finished product for now. A side note and the 1zz coils, the coils sit around 1/2 inch higher then the valve cover galley so you can just put the coil cover on and pull it tight against the coils and it holds it great. Here's a shot of the cooling system and my baby electric fan lol. This is the shifter im using because the trans in electronically shifted . its made for a aw4 jeep trans but the aw4 and a340e are pretty much identical so it works like a charm. I use a b&m ratchet shifter for p/r/n/d and this controls the 1-4.
  4. Thanks man. I just kind of thew it together and when i get some more cash im going to go back and redo alot of things. I live about 10 min from wcu and ill tell you what in the last ten years its changed a bunch.
  5. What kind of coil are you running and what are your dwell settings?
  6. Have you tried turning the noise filtering on?
  7. I also wanna throw in some pics of my dash. Here it is in the mock up stage. With a few gauges. In the living room wired up. Iv got the lilliput touch screen to tune the megasquirt on the fly if need be and the koso digi race dash is my tach/speedo and various temp readings. I have to throw a pic in with the old ball and chain... JK, she's not that serious.
  8. Well here's a few pics of my 78 280 with a 1jz/auto swap i just did. Im running the engine fully sequential via megasquirt 3x dual wheel trigger (12 tooth crank with rear cam for reset) 1zz carolla coils and all stock sensors.for the fuel system im running the stock 280 pump to a 3/4 gallon surge tank that feed twin walbro 255's and dual -8 lines to a wye at the engine . it has the stock radiator with a honda electric fan which keeps it dead nuts on 180. Iv got the stock c12A turbos huffing 19psi through a a340e trans with shimmed accumulators and its pretty quick, i waxed a new ss camaro with a cam and exhaust and 5.0 stang on a 125 shot, It has a hard time hooking even with the bfg DR out back. Here it is about to go under the knife. this is a time lapse of 6 days from start to finish, would have been done sooner but weather delays screwed me. Here's the old and tired l28e. Up on my ghetto lift. Bout to get my yank on. BAM l28 gone... BAM 1jz in its new home side shot 32x15x3 intromacooler thaingy top shot. You can kinda see my stock radiator. i was worried about cooling but its never had a problem, plus i used off the shelf radiator hoses to.. And last but not least my super sweet cop attracting,fire breathing fender exit exhaust. and the poser shot. Here's the first drive video on stock boost and a rough tune. Here's a little anitlag video, it builds around 17psi in 2.5 to 3 seconds. It sounds rough on the video but i think its cause the shitty microphone and sampling rate of my phone..the car sounds like sex in person. Those are all the pics i have as of today. I can go get some more tomorrow to show it in its finished state.
  9. Ok scratch that I just re read your post zsteelman. Ill get the measurements and angles shortly.
  10. Ya I can try and get some dimensions when I get home tomorrow. I'm trying to figure out what the best way to measure the curvature of the top plate, maybe make a reference line and measure multiple points that intersect with horizontal references say every 2 inches kinda like a spread sheet?
  11. Here's a few pics of mine that I made today. I still have a bunch of work to do on it but its a start. Started with a basic shape then cut it out with the plasma. I used the trim piece that goes on the front of the dash for a template for the top part and bent the other piece in a makeshift metal brake. Mocked up. Here's one with some of the gauges installed at night. Boost ,egt , wideband o2 , water temp , oil temp , oil pressure , fuel pressure and volt. Still waiting on my nitrous pressure gauge. I got the koso digi display mounted. It will be my speed,rpm,fuel leval, ambient air temp, trans temp, diff temp and indicator lights. I still have to fab up some switches,powdercoat or wrinkle paint, mount the electronic boost controller and progressive water/meth controller and fab up a bracket for a 7 inch Lilliput touch screen that I will use to tune the megasquirt3 without having to break out the laptop.
  12. Well lol IV only got the passenger rear on so I can do the other three. I thought that this would be somewhat of a simple install but it looks like I'm going to have to break out the big guns.
  13. Ya stony I Remember reading that the 280 tubes were larger but I was supposed to have received a set that had a larger I.D for the. O.D of the 280 tubes but there may have been a mishap and I got the set machined for the 240. If no one thinks there will be an issue with hogging out the I.D of the adapter I'll just throw it on the lathe take some material out and be done with the beating. Maybe johnc can post his opinion on the situation.
  14. Ya I tried a ton of stuff. Check out my post in the s13 Bible.
  15. I have a 78 280z and the set I got was the first run of the 280z adapters. I know that this is supposed to be an interference fit but it might be just a little to snug. I under stand that you wouldn't want any movement and for it to be tight enough that the weld would not be the only thing holding it in place but I think this is a little excessive, I may be wrong though.
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