zsteelman

A set of things from a 240z part out, also a few parts for a Datsun 210 if anyone is interested. I have many other parts that are unable to be shipped just PM if interested. http://www.ebay.com/sch/oksteelz/m.html?item=221300884067&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 Thanks,

Sorry bout that, it is a 77 280z. I played around some with the AFM and made it alittle more rich, this seemed to help alot in the low end. However, after the car running for an hour it started to drop fuel pressure at about 1psi a minute until it died. I have come down to the conclusion that it is the fuel pump going out on me once it gets heated up. Before I run out and buy a walbro 255 I am going to rewire the pump with 10g wire and a relay to see if it is the pump itself going out or some wiring issue due to amperage heating up the wire. I currently only get 9v to the factory fuel pump from a cold start, have yet to catch it when it is dieing on me to see the hot range. Any other ideas of what could be causing this leaning issue? From the drop in fuel pressure I am assuming it has to be pump related at this point.

I have been having a constant battle with this car to get it into reliable driving condition. It was running decent early spring then sat over the summer and has developed what seems to be a fuel problem. Problem: During low rpms (0-2000) there is considerable hesitation and lean popping in the intake. New fuel filter pre-pump and in the engine bay. Cleaned all hardlines. All new EFI fuel hose throughout entire car. New FPR. In-line EFI fuel pressure guage - reads 30-35 constant. 6 new injectors. 6 new injector electrical plugs, soldered into lines. New NGK plugs. New sparkplug wires. New ACCEL ignition coil. Ran Seafoam through intake twice. Fuel Injector and Fuel system cleaner a few times. Timing is set to 10 degrees. Removed throttle body and cleaned thoroughly. Replaced PCV valve. Checked for vacuum leaks with starter fluid. I checked the AFM initially via the EFI guide and things looked fine but I still feel that there may be something wrong. As you can see in the video it has been opened before and resealed with red RTV. Makes me wonder if someone messed with the tension of the spring within. Any ideas are welcome and appreciated!

I have followed some of these posts of NA conversions on the stock electronics, seems a lot of individuals that are running the duel pumps are only running the secondary pump under boost with a hobbs switch activating the pump. Sounds like a good idea, no need to run the pump if it isn't needed. Also I would recommend rewiring the fuel pump with fresh wiring as the factory I have found only pulls 9v to the pump. Definately keep the pics up

Looks nice, can you share some pictures of the 350z seats?

The issue on mine was due to the key lock cylinder wearing down over the years and no longer having the ability to push the unlock level all the way, hence it would not unlock from the outside and would jam up the mechanism. After I installed the keyless entry, the actuator was able to push the levers further and reliably. However, I just chunked the arms from the key cylinder as they were worthless now. I still have the manual unlock for the hatch if the battery ever dies with the car locked.

I had the same issue. Replaced with keyless entry and solved the problem.

Looking for a hatch lock for an s30. Apparently the lock that came with my car had a different key than what I was given when buying the car. Locksmith said he couldn't make a new key so I need to find one. anyone have one off of a parts car out there?

Just wanted to give you guys an update. I got my ebay power lock kit (29$ shipped) and got the first door installed. Video of the install working (took about 2 hours to figure out the linkage). Picture of where I installed the motor. Unfortunately due to the size of the round section of the motor I could only get it to fit at the bottom of the door and not interfere with the window mechanics. If you get a kit that doesn't have the round section you can probably fit it further up. Picture of the dual arm linkage. since I had to mount it down low I had to use two linkage arms to get the length right. However it now fits and works flawlessly. I no longer have the issue of my doors not unlocking due to worn out key components. You guys will not have to cut away the door like I did, atleast not as much, I initially tried to install it further up but the window regulator got in the way. Video of the components with the kit. I will post more pictures when I get the unit mounted and the passenger door finished. I am going to have to drill holes for the wiring in my 280z and will probably run the wiring through the doors inside rubber vacuum hose.

Decided to go ahead and purchase a power lock kit and fiddle with the latch adjustment. For the price of new key cylinders I was able to pick up a four motor kit to use for both doors and the hatch. Ill keep this post updated when it arrives.

Ok, I recently replaced my doorhandles on my 280z and afterwards I have noticed a problem. When I bought the car both doorhandles were toast so this may have been this say before. Anyway when I shut the door, lock it, and try to open it with it locked it seems that the linkage gets stuck on something and makes it impossible to unlock except from the inside with extreme force. Needless to say this is an issue when I have to lock the car at work I have to crawl in the hatch. <a href=http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c9/zachissak/280z/?action=view&current=2011-05-13_13-44-07_14.mp4 target=_blank><img src=http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid24.photobucket.com/albums/c9/zachissak/280z/2011-05-13_13-44-07_14.mp4 border=0 alt=></a> In the video you can sort of see and hear that there is something catching. My question is if anyone has had this issue and if so is it something I have adjusted wrong? The search seems to bring up door slamming issues and not door catching issues. Also if I need to go to electric locks, anyone had experience with ebay brand? I plan on keeping the mechanical hatch lock for protection of dead batteries.

Looking for a working hatch lock with key in working order. PO broke mine trying to get into car.

I am LOVING the interior. Can you take some more detailed pictures of your hatch area? I am curious to see how you mounted the "strut" bar, it looks welded. Also, how is your sound system installed? Any boxes underneath?

I am debating attempting something like this myself, some of you may have seen my build thread that documents the front end damage that my car has taken before I purchased it. I believe that I am going to probably start with a 08-10 Challenger front fascia and modify it from there. the Challenger is wider than the 280z but I believe that it could be sliced and spliced together. This would also allow use to use the Challenger headlights as well to keep it nice.

So I finally got my Z up and running. Cleaned fuel tank, new lines from front to back, new injectors, used stock pump. I can start my car up and it will idle and purr like a dream. I can rev up to 5000 no problem, not misses or cut outs. I drove the car down the block and was coming back around the corner when I started to hear the fuel pump start to whine and the engine starts to cutout. I have a fuel pressure gauge installed and when the engine and everything is cooled off I get about 36 psi, however once the engine gets up to operating temp, it drops down to 20psi. At that point any thottle will kill the car. Having the ability to rev the engine when everything is cooled off makes me think that the ignition isn't an issue. New plugs, wires, and coil, as well as new plugs installed into the harness for all of the injectors. Any way to test the fuel pump as it sits now? I'm scatching my head and want to make sure it is truely a bad pump before I go purchase a replacement.