Quetzalcoatl71Z

I am having a problem in my 71 where water can get in through the top really easily. One thing I noticed was this foam tape stuff that is right next to the rubber weatherstripping on the inside of the door opening. Also, my passenger side door is missing that rubber piece that is on the inside of the actual door closest to the hood... That seems to be sealing a lot up for my driver's side. Anyone know what this piece is called or how to get a new one?

I remember something on wikipedia saying that the later p90a heads had problems of some sort. It was on the 280zx wikipedia i think when you scroll down to the 82-83 part. But I think they mentioned it was because they were hydraulic that the p90a's were a problem. I will be doing the same swap to my car so it would be good to know which head is better and why.

Well I took the float/bowl assembly apart, as well as where the needle valve is in that weird main part. Cleaned everything up and all. didn't really see anything majorly dirty in either places though. I only did thi on the SU nearest the sidewall since more gas was coming from there than the front one. Unfortunately i ripped the gasket on the float/bowl assembly, so I guess I am on my way to order new gaskets for everything. All warmed up, the as seems to have stopped coming out of the vent nozzles completely. Maybe the float was stuck and not letting gas back through the return line? I dont even know if anything besides a physical clog affects the return line, but it all seems ok for now. Going to get a new air filter now that mine is soaked in gas, lol. This thread was very helpful.

I am having the same exact problem. Except on my 71, the fuel pours out of BOTH vent lines into the air cleaner assembly. I mean there is gas everywhere. Should I unscrew those 2 needle guys at the top of the bowls to check for debris? Or just take the whole shibang apart and start cleaning?

Ya, I need to buy one of those somewhere (FSM). But until then I am going to try again very carefully. I just bought the car, and I don't want to break anything else on it. It's a 71, an enough pieces are broken and or missing already lol... Thanks again guys!

Hey thanks a lot for the quick responses! I really appreciate all that. All the info seems very good! I can't seem to get the radio out tho. i took out the 2 bolts in the back that are attached to the bracket... But how do I get the whole center console and heater control areas out of location? Appreciate it all! and I did a few searches about this already and came up with nothing. It feels like I got everything loose, but when I pull, it feels like I might just break the plastic pieces...

I was wondering if there was some way to obtain wiring diagrams that are better than the Haynes manual ones. I have a 71 240Z with a 2.6L, and a 5 speed M/T. A few reasons I want better wiring diagrams are because, 1: The head unit (aftermarket) is supposed to be working when I bought the car, and it doesn't; 2: The automatic door locks/alarm thing on my key chain is supposed to work, and it doesn't either; and 3: peace of mind. I can read wring diagrams just fine, but I feel that the Haynes is lacking somehow. Any ideas? Thanks

So I just ordered the clutch master for the 71, the slave for the 280, and am getting new SS lines to hook it all up. Just putting in the master today, the slave should be coming to my door in a couple days, so I will do that and the line next weekend. Should fix all the clutch problems...

From what I am reading just on the S30 wiki is that the 5 speed trans didn't come out until the 280Z (not ZX) days. So about 1977. So I guess my 71 240Z has the 5 speed trans in there, not a 4 speed. The trans is manual too btw. Now I am unsure of the engine, is it from a 280 or 260, or 240z? Does that 5 speed match up to any of those three engines, 2.4 2.6 2.8L respectively? I need to order these parts, so I think I will order the slave for the 280z 5-speed trans since I am unsure if the 240Z one will bolt onto the side of the trans correctly due to possible different bolt patterns.

Ya, I think me and a buddy are gona change the master, the lines, AND the broken slave. Thanks to the replies. i always search, but felt I still needed to ask. I have some 5 speed trans in my 71 Z. It's supposedly a 260 trans and engine... would I need a different slave (due to maybe different bolt patter for mounting)? The new lines are gona be pretty sweet.

Also, my tranny is a 5 speed supposedly from a 260Z. And the engine is a rebuilt 260 engine as well. Just to make sure I got all the info someone may need to help. I am going ahead and replacing the slave asap, but until then, any info would be much appreciated about maybe why the fluid wont go down form the master to the clutch slave? (maybe because the slave is blown and cant work the fluid?). Thanks again! This is going to be an ongoing project for about the next 3 to 4 years.

So in the process of buying this 71 Z, I have been driving it about once a week... When I went to go actually pick it up, the clutch pedal had no resistance to it when depressed. The car still started, but I could not put it in gear. Upon some further inspection we found out that the slave cyl (the one on the side of the trans) is leaking, and that the main reservoir was completely empty. We put fluid in the top and opened the bleeder screw/valve at the slave, but could not get the fluid to go down form the top to the slave. I figure replacing the slave is a must anyways, but will it fix my problem?

Thanks! It was kinda a duh I guess, lol. The vacuum line IS the only thing going to the engine...wow... I knew that too... Should I get a brand new check valve for the vac line going to the mani?

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/35455-brake-boostermaster-cylinder-options-on-a-73-240z/ I really need this question answered if possible.

Bumpin this again. No one knows?