ratedZ

Yes

ALOHA guys! It's been a while and wanted to say hello to everyone I also have a problem with my z and needed some help. My z seems to be having some electrical or starter issue...she is a 1983 turbo. I barely drove the Z for the past year and a half or so because I lived in the country where the road to my place was not paved. I have moved to a new place where the roads are paved so I wanted to get the Z back to a driveable state. Prior to moving the car, I did some much needed clean up under the engine bay and tuned it up with some fresh parts. I was actually pretty happy as she always started with no problems...until the day I actually moved the car. So I drive it from the old place to the new house which was about a 25 mile drive. Other than the hesitation that I was experiencing (the damn connectors to the ecu needs to be changed now), everything seemed to be somewhat ok. But when I got it to the house, things changed. I was backing her up when I lost pressure on the clutch and couldn't get it out of reverse (leak on the clutch line aargh). She basically bucked and died...after that I tried to start her up but I didn't get a response from the starter. Since then, I have searched the web and basically points to a few things. A: a bad starter (not sure if this is the prob as it whirrrs when I jump it with a screw driver) B: the ignition on the console (checked and it seems ok) or C: Fuses (check and all ok) or a bad wire somewhere... I cleaned all the connectors and grounds (engine bay and interior) and sanded all of them clean and sprayed with electrical cleaner prior to the move. Spent some time tinkering with wires again today and I checked the voltage on the battery and it reads a little over 12 volts and reads a little lower at the starter (11.5volts). Maybe the + and - wire from the battery to starter needs to be replaced? All I hear is the clicking of the relays in the engine bay and the fuel pump when I try to turn it over. As you can see, I'm pretty much at a loss here. I'm looking at taking the dash out and tracing the wires and making sure that the wires look ok but really didn't want to do that if I don't have to. If someone could chime in as to where I should look next that would be great. It's gotten to a point where I entertained the idea of selling it (or pushing it off of Mauna Kea) as I've been kind of on the edge lately

ALOHA! Just joining the S130 pilots! Merry Christmas all

ALOHA! This sounds like the classic corroded ECU connector problem. I had this problem before at 18psi and found out that the ECU connectors and the pins on the ECU side was dirty and corroded. All you have to do is pull the connecters in and out a few times. Doing this will clean the gunk in the contacts. You could also use a tooth brush or something similar to clean up the contacts. Give it a shot, you might be surprised

Hey thanks for the reply. Forgot to tell you guys that I figured out what was wrong with her. All I did was clean the ECU contacts and did the in-out-in-out retual and low and behold it worked!

Wow it's been a while how has everyone been? I've been out of the z car boards for some time now and my Z has been collecting dust. Just got the bug again and really want to get my car back into shape...I tried getting some help with a mechanical issue I'm currently having at zcar.com and zdriver but haven't gotten real sure answer to what I need to do to fix the problem...so I'm here ready to soak up your knowleadge like a sea sponge lol message from zcar.com cut and paste: ....I got under the Z for the first time in almost a year. She's been collecting dust and cob webbs...and I've been pretty much AWOL from the Z community also. Part of that is because the problems I've been having with her shortly after the engine re-build. Well, I sat in my car and I got that feeling again...kind of like my Z is telling me to fix me! lol...I guess that sounds corny but putting my hands on the steering wheel brought back a lot of memories. Now I've got the energy and drive to work on my baby again and my first step was to follow your advice and replace the fuel pump for the problem I was having with her. I got a great deal on a Vortex T-rex fuel pump and bolted it right in. Everything started up just fine after I checked the fluids but the stumbling problem is still there. Once warmed up, I can gas the car in neutral to build some boost but it would burp and gurgle as if the car is starving for fuel while it struggled to build some RPM's. While the car is moving under load I can get about 3psi before there's a major loss in power which would normally force me to let off. Also the air/fuel meter is reading to the faaar left (lean) at speed while boosting and while revving the motor at idle. So so far, I've replaced the fuel filter and replaced the fuel pump. What's the next thing that I should check? I've been told a lot of things like the fuel injectors are clogged to the O2 censor is bad or that the Air Flow Meter is the problem...I honestly do not know where to start next. I'm guessing the fuel injectors but hoping to get some educated advice from you guys. I'm so feening for that power again and just want to do what ever it takes to get her back on the road. -------------------------------------- thanks guys! and it feels good to be back in the groove of things....

Check out the link under my sig. There's pics of the NPR IC installed on my 280zxt and has info on the IC size, as well as other things that might help you out visualy. Don't waste your money on "bolt on" IC kits...as you know, they are very expensive. Hell, I got my NPR IC new for around $300.00.

Yes, the springs absorb the impact of the engagement. Spec sells the flat disks, I can't even begin to imagine how harsh those engage. Definitely made just for racing apps.

I haven't really had the chance to break her in yet so I'm not sure how much this thing can handle. It does hold boost up to 16psi though no problem. The pedal is pretty stiff but I've gotten used to it and is not that bad at all. The engagement is very tolerable and I've learned to drive it where I barely get the jolt...it is pretty harse though at wide open throttle but I'm ok with it. It came with the 6-puck racing disk but it's got the sprung hub...which makes the disk very streetable.

WOW you guys put a smile on my face that's great news. However, I still should follow the specified break in period for the clutch right? 500 miles for the clutch...better than 1500, it would take me a year to do that

sorry for the pic size, I'll have to crop it

...hey guys, it's been a while. How's everyone? Well I've been busy with the Z. Got the rebuilt motor in and the Spec stage4 clutch (which I'm lovin:D) Driving her easy right now and shes been driven for about two weeks. Within those two weeks I've only managed to put less than a 100 miles I did hit it a little to see where my boost sits and it hit 16psi without hesitation. I let off real quick though and I'm having a hard time keeping my foot off the gas...so hard that my wife threatened to take my keys away lol So my question is this, how long is the average break in period? I've gotten mixed numbers from Zcar.com....some say 500 and some say 1000, and others 1500. I just need to make sure so I can plan a trip or something. Thanks all!!!

Checked to see if the mounting holes line up with my old cover...looks like it does so it should be OK as far as the fitment. BUT still wondering about the "sharp aggressive engagement"...haven't really been in a car that has this to see exactly what sharp engagement feels like.

Hey guys, just got my SPEC clutch in the mail...only thing is I originally ordered the Stage II as the car is a daily driver. Soo, I now have the 6puck sprung hub disk instead of the Kevlar sprung disk...I know that the 6puck has a harsher engagement but can anyone tell me if this clutch will be ok to use as a daily driver?....not too worried about the engagement, just worried about the flywheel ect. and maybe some unecessary wear and tear of other parts. Also, just noticed on the invoice that it says... "Spec Clutch Stage 2 - 280z; 84-89 300zx NA; 84-86 300zx Turbo" Can this be used on the Borg Warner T5 on my 83 zxt?...I hope so because if this won't work, my plans to drop the motor in this Saturday is totally wasted. Dammit, why can't people get their friggen order right? This is the second time this year so far that I've been screwed with wrong parts. grrrrrrr..... >o( btw..here's the link to Nippon Power where I ordered the clutch http://www.nipponpower.com/drivetrain/clutch/spec.html

Here's a pic of my FMIC... There's more pics under my sig