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Mex-Z-can

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About Mex-Z-can

  • Birthday 01/05/1971

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    http://www.geocities.com/jedelrio1/240Z.html

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  1. http://www.majesticturbo.com/. They're good and can build anything.
  2. When I first did the turbo swap, I kept the N/A clutch to save some money. DUMB! It slipped at 8 PSI in 3rd!!!! I'm using Nissan stock turbo clutch since my car is running only 10 PSI (no intercooler yet), and it does the job just fine.
  3. Well, I did the swap in a 71 also and I replaced both lines with big diameter ones. When the engine is running, if I crawl under the rear of the car and touch the lines, the return line is very hot. I would assume that if I had used the original small diameter lines the fuel will get hotter. Additionally, if the original lines are obstructed in any way (since they're the original ones) then fuel will get even hotter!!!! I would be having vapor lock for sure. I had vapor lock back when I had the stock carbed engine, so that's why I changed the lines in the first place. So, I would recommend not using the stock fuel lines, it's not worth the trouble (you don't want fuel delivery problems under boost). Also, if you're using the stock fuel tank you should change the inlet and outlet pipes, since the stock ones are very small.
  4. Glad to see that you found the problem. Thanks for posting the results.
  5. How do you know that "it doesn't loose pressure"??? Do you have a pressure gauge on the dash or any other way to check your pressure on real time??? I ask because it sounds like a bad fuel pump or FPR. But if you really can check the pressure as you drive, and it still leans out then I guess it's something else.
  6. The problem is not the hasness swap. Even if you connected the efi and ingnition harnesses incorrectly, the starter should turn, and the gauges should move, since they get power from a different harness. You have a bad connection somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch, or between the ignition switch and the starter. Use a test light to determine where. A diagram would be helpful. Also, check your fuses and fusible links. You don't need parts from your old harness, just follow bumblebz's guide. I did and it worked great.
  7. I'm trying to get this Daikin set up, so I searched and found this website. You guys think this pressure plate is the one everybody is talking about???? The price looks OK to me.... http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performance/basket.php?makeid=19&modelid=201&year=1983&partid=315&brandid=71
  8. OK, I have searched, and did not find the problems that I have, so here it goes: I did a turbo swap on my 240Z, but I used the n/a flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate, simply because the donnor car is an auto and I didn't have a turbo clutch available. Everything worked fine. The engine started, and the car felt great, but as expected, I had some clutch slippage at full throttle, under boost. So, I got a used flywheel, disk and pressure plate that a zcar.com member had for sale in the classsified ads. It looked OK, so i didn't have the flywheel resurfaced, just cleaned everything real good and dropped the tranny. I also got a new turbo collar and pilot bushing from MSA. I used the old bearing, since it was really no that old and seemed to be OK. The n/a flywheel has only 6 bolts, and the turbo flywheel has 9, so I used the 6 from the n/a and 3 other bolts that I had in my "used bolt box". They were not exactly the same, but they looked close enough to me, so when I was installing the pressure plate, I placed the 3 different bolts at the same distance from each other on the flywheel. Then I installed the tranny and everyrhing else. Now when I start the car with the tranny in neutral, there is some engine vibration and if I release the gas pedal, the engine slowly dies. This could be attributed to the bolts, but then comes the worst part: When I start depresing the clutch pedal, there's a terrible sound, like a machine gun. It gets worse as I depress the clutch. Needless to say that didn't fully depressed the pedal. It sounds like the flywheel is hitting something, so, I removed the tranny and found very few metal shavings inside the bellhousing, but I was unable to see any damagged parts. I looked at the flywheel theets, and surface on both sides, the pressure plate, the bearing, and nothing seems to be wrong. So, is my flywheel out of balance??? I'm getting new bolts anyway, but does it need to be re balanced??? Can this unbalance cause this hitting sound when the clutch pedal is depressed??? Thanks in advance.
  9. I have the a/c stuff still in and was able to install the afm just by cutting 1 to 2 inches from each end of the rubber boot. I use a flexible plastic tube (autozone) to connect to the airbox in front of the radiator, through the stock hole in the radiator support. Works ok at stock boost level.
  10. Connect a a/f ratio gauge to your oxygen sensor and go for a ride. If mix gets lean during boost, then you have a fuel delivery problem. Remove the fuel filter and try to blow through it. Air should flow almost freely. If not, then you need a new filter. Look for obstuctions in the fuel line and tank. If all this is OK, your fuel pump may be bad.
  11. I've dealt with Majesctic Turbo recently. They did a great job on my T3, and they were very supportive when I was installing it (over the phone). It was not exactly cheap, but you get what you pay for.
  12. Check this out: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=597707&t=597707#reply_597707 I hope this helps.
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