Jankyvictor

Interested Too! Can you PM when 1 is available?

The seller definitley has more than $4K in it + a lot of time. I wouldn't get scared by the price....just decide if it's what you're looking for.

WOW! I didn't expect that many people to want one either Scott! Makes me glad I ordered my custom plates before I started the project LS1280Z is all mine! With this much interest, maybe it will spur some more fabricators to produce products and kits for this swap.

I now advertise for HybridZ with my car on Xbox Live! In Forza 2 you can completely modify the look of your car in thousands of ways....it actually makes for a great way to see what you like and don't like the look of on your Z. Find me online under JANKYVICTOR.

Thanks Mike....That gives me a few more ideas. I'll post pics of what I come up with.

I'm looking for something which I hoped would be a sticky.... I was hoping someone has pics of their entire process of mounting a front airdam, and any tips and tricks they suggest to make it really stout. I bought the MSA type 3 front end... but it came without a word of instruction or advice. I know I can come up with 10 different ways to bolt it, brace it, support it etc....just hoping for a little input from those who've been there, and have been happy with the results. Thanks

Has anyone ever removed the entire defogging system from the rear hatch glass with success? Whats the trick? Is it just thin copper strips stuck to the glass that will strip off with a razor, or are they etched in somehow? I have the glass out and I'm about to have them tinted, but the copper looks nasty, and will only be more noticable with dark tint behind it. Just wanted to ask first before finding out the hard way that I shouldn't have attempted it. Any thinners or solvents loosen them up? Any advice would be great.

LOL! yeah, I thought someone might comment on that! HybridZ is kinda all about mixing it up..... Welcome to HybridZ! Sounds like a good starting point. Good luck!

1 Lg Ordered. Thanks for offering these! Chris

BEWARE!! Suspension Techniques apparently changed their whole image. I just bought their bars and they came in a horrid flourescent lime green. They were like that on the ones my friend got for his civic, too. The kicker is, when I was stripping the paint off with Aircraft grade chemical stripper, they were beautiful gunmetal grey underneath... Oh well, a few hours extra work, but they are Satin Black now.

Interesting that the next two guys expressed the importance of wetting the floor... From Brisk1961's article... "5. Make certain it is bone dry where you are going to paint. Helpful old souls will tell you to wet the floor down to keep the dust down ... say "Thank you for that idea," and then, whatever you do, DO NOT WET THE FLOOR IN THE PAINTING AREA. All urethane is moisture-cure material. Any humidity, fog, steam, cloud, water vapor, passing from the floor into the sky as it evaporates will pass through the spray mist from your spray gun. At the end of the spray gun, as you pull the trigger, the temperature of the paint drops many degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius, as you wish ... this cures some of the paint before it ever hits the car!!! "Gee, I got a lot of dirt in my finish ... duh. " No, actually, you PUT A LOT OF "DIRT" IN THE FINISH. DRY! DRY! DRY! Always paint in a dry place. " I know that at the body shop I worked in, there was a policy of wetting down the filters and floor to reduce dust, but that was always done with enough time to dry before pushing the car in the booth. A humidity guage is often used because most paints have a temperature range and humidity range that must be adhered to for best results.

Ok, this helped a bit. "Most people associate solid camber plates with a harsh ride, due to the lack of a thick rubber or poly-urethane pad to act as a cushion. I have found that this is not necessarily the case. If the solid camber plate has a short stack height, then the increased travel means that the suspension stays in the range where only the spring is needed to absorb bumps..." That's where I was hung-up. I didn't realize that you were elliminating the need for isolators...does sound harsh. If that's the case you don't need camber plates, just a way to rig the strut in there without the thick cushioning parts of the "stack". --of course the higher you go up in there, the greater the need for camber adjustment. Ok, so next question.....I havent seen a camber plate design that allows for a tower brace, nor have I seen a brace that is set up for camber plates.. Where can you bolt one if you've removed the three studs? (I'm talking over the counter here, not elaborate set up's like the Kipperman LS1 Z.)

I know some people have used the Electromotive tec3 that I just posted an ad for. It will control all kinds of stuff and do it well. Only kicker is, I only have the coil packs for the 6 cyl.

I need a visual....How are the aftermarket camber plates giving you that much more travel? What is eliminated from the "Stack" that gives you that travel? I thought they were entirely in the engine compartment on top of the strut tower, and allowed the top of the strut to slide laterally. Sorry, need pics....visual learner, but I'l try if you want to explain without pics.