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mikeith

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About mikeith

  • Birthday 12/13/1984

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  1. laying down a few coats of por15 before the install would take car of the moister issue. as far as the weight thing goes. if its a street car than weight isn't THAT much of an issue and even that much dynomat. to me the quiter ride would be worth it. i plan on doing the same to mine next summer. hey jr did you do the roof aswell?
  2. where can i find an early 240z front bumper from the 70-72 i think. i cant find one for crap and when i do find one someone is asking a fortune for it. mine is a 73 and it looks similar but just not as clean as the earlier ones! i'm willing to trade both my front and rear bumpers and throw a little extra $$ if i can find a good one
  3. no rattlecan... its john deer blitz black. sprayed on like any other paintjob. its great stuff. doesnt chalk up like primer or other matte colors. they sell it in a rattlecan but like any other rattlecan job on a car it would be blotchy. spraying from a gun makes anything lay out nicer though
  4. got her out today to run some errands and decided to take a few pictures
  5. i like that! last time i looked at vintage air they only had the old looking one... may just go that route.
  6. i have a partial sponcership from iforged and i'm thinking i'm going to go with a 18x9 with a 255/35 on front and a 18x11 w/ a 295/30 on back and the wide zg flares. i've been searching for a couple hours on here and everywhere else and not having much luck... does ANYONE know of a car running this or a similar setup? so i can get some visual ideas from.... the closest i've come is finding the all white one but i cant find exact wheel tire specs (other than i know its not as wide as im wanting to go simply by looking at the width)
  7. i though about vintage air but i want a more modern simple look w/ the hvac controls... kinda like this
  8. haha can you say bodydrop!!! although it would take a RICOCKULIOUS amount of fabwork on a s30! could be done though edit: you could also do an airride setup using art air struts but then again it wouldnt be drivable that low
  9. everyone knows the heater/ac in the s30's is far from great! has anyone ever used a complete system from a newer model car and retro fitted it into an s30. and by complete i'm talking everything from plumbing, to fans and the hvac controls themselves. i was thinking about trying one from more modern car in a similar size but i dont want to waste alot of money on something that wont work. not looking for anything fancy as far as the hvac controls go but something from late 90's early 2000's w/ to have defrost, vent, floor, vent+floor, and defrost+floor... any ideas? i was thinking maybe a miata or something
  10. ok the other night i was driving around in my 73 and someone pointed out that my running/taillights werent working, but headlights, brakelights, and turn signals were.... i figure not big deal i'll mess with it later. well i pull out and realise my brights were on and pull the switch for the lever for the high/lows and i hear a pop. then realise i have no headlights.... i get parked and check fuses... they're good so i reach under the console and squeeze each of the terminals and then the gauge and running lights come on but still no headlights. i take the back roads home and once i get home i take the column cover off and then ALL lights go out except blinkers and brake lights (which is normal) upon looking over everything i notice that the thick gauged white wire w/ the red line on the headlight switch had apperently melted the soldering and popped loose(i came to this conclucsion by touching it back to where it was supposed to be soldered and it immediately got really hot then stopped all of a sudden as if it shorted out) my first question is if that thick gauged white/red wire is supposed to be spliced into the main dash harness directly(because it was) and there is a thick gauged red one that is done the same way. ignore the last sentence in the picture... its the wire on the right not the left(right behind the one that melted loose) also the 9 pin plug that does actually plug the headlight switch to the main wiring harness melted the corner when it shorted out (the green wire w/ white line) does this sound like it is the switch itself that is bad or the dash harness itself? how SPECIFICALLY do i tell if it is the dash harness... once i unplugged the switch everything was ok but if i plug it in the green/white wire gets hot. i dont want to plug in a new headlight switch if its going to immediately short out Modified by mikeith at 6:14 PM 6/8/2009
  11. my headlight switch shorted out last night and shorted out my dash harness with it.
  12. f parts on ebay is a good source... they'll range from 6000-8000 for a complete takeout. i'm looking for one myself. every now and then one will pop up for 5500 or so if you look hard enough.... i'm looking for one w/ damaged heads or intake that i can get cheap since i'm using l92 heads and a fast 92 intake/tb
  13. here it is... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101301 a little searching goes a long way
  14. there is also a fix that has something to do with the striker and grinding something on the latch or something.
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