1zcarfan

Does anyone have a strong feeling that ONLY genuine Holley kits be used for a rebuild? There is one "authority" on the net that offers assistance to those of us experiencing problems with a Holley. All he asks is that you search his site before you ask for assistance (sound familiar) but he insists that you have used only genuine Holley rebuild parts. I've gone through a boatload of AFBs, Q-Jets, FoMoCos and even a couple Holleys. I've never had any problems with them that I could identify the source as an aftermarket rebuild kit! What's your opinion?

deMideon and Mike kZ, I like your idea of keeping the lockout functional yet simple. Does anyone have a specific spring recommendation (part number or application) that works well for them or is this a trial and error/personal preference situation. I'm open to suggestions as to where I might find a wide selection of springs if no one has a specific "preferred" spring(s). My T56 is currently on a furniture dolly so I'm thinking I may not be able to get a good feel for what is too stiff or too weak at this point. I'm trying my best to get as many of the little things handled as I go. I'm hoping to plan this well enough so that once I get started I won't get frustrated and stop work when I find that I need an additional six months to find all the little odds and ends and a loan to pay for them. No doubt, there will be enough "issues" to deal with along the way without that. I want to get as many of the known loose ends handled before I get started! Thanks, Paul BTW: Where's the spell checker? I NEED one, bad!

Your Z is coming together nicely. Now for the fun part!!! A little friendly competition. But how about some details on the build. From what I can see I'm curious about hood clearance with the Victor Jr., the 5 lug rear axles, where you found a 3.42 R200 and how you built the side exhaust for starters. So best of luck with it... now go kick some ass with the Z and let us know how that feels!!! Paul

Shaggy Z, Feel free to PM me next time you come across a "killer deal" that you're not interested in for yourself. I live in Austin as well. Obviously I'm not connecting with the right crowd. I'm mostly looking for S30 cars and/or parts but some SBC parts and a complete JTR kit as well. Thanks, Paul

The second auction that you listed appears to be a genuine Nissan rear glass seal. I would certainly ask the seller to verify that is the case though. Also, if you choose to deal with reddat on E-Bay, request a quote on shipping/handling if you have a budget!!! My experience is that he tends to pay himself better for handling than most other sellers. Personally, my experience is limited. I have bought a complete set from Victoria British/Black Dragon. From the set I have only used the rear hatch to body weatherstrips. Although they are not identical to original parts, they seem to fit satisfactorly and they do seal. Good luck with your decision, Paul

I appreciate the responses that were left concerning my request for help. I didn't exactly fall off the edge of the earth but since my request for assistance with my wiring dilemma, I've had a family crisis so I haven't signed on to HybridZ in the last few days. Larry, Thanks for the link concerning a spell checker. I did follow it and read through the thread. The screen I am presently using is identical to the one shown by SuperDan in his post with the exception of the spell checker button. If it matters, I am using "FireFox" on both a PC and a Mac. Both have the identical screen. I'm far from being computer savvy, but maybe I'll figure that out. I don't think it's worth it to me to use MS Exploder just for a spell checker. Until I find a fix, I guess I'll make do with dictionary.com!!! Dragonfly, I think you have a better grasp of what my situation is. I wish I had the time and knowledge to post a photo to clarify things! Try this scenario: You have lost a complete front turn signal light assembly. I give you one, but it only has 3 separate wires with no connector on the end of them! How would you connect it to your wire harness? I'm not certain that I have clearly explained my situation. I have purchased replacement wire harnesses from front to rear. They are intact and in pristine condition. My problem is that everything that plugs into these harnesses via a "mating connector" has had that half of the "mating connector" cut off and the wires soldered to the "ALL WHITE" wire harness currently in the car. I can install the new harnesses, but nothing on the car has a connector to plug to my new harnesses!!! As distasteful as it is, my best idea for a quality solution is still a donor car. Even so, another problem arises. There are different wiring harnesses used on different year model cars. There may have even been some changes within the 1972 year model run. It seems that in Datsun's early years, "over-built" parts from the previous year models were used on "transition" vehicles until they were depleted. I think all years will use the same connectors on lights, but turn signal/flashers vary as I understand, wiper motors in '73 Zs are 3 speed while earlier cars are 2 speed. There are probably other subtle differences like lighted heater controls, door switches, volt/amp gauges, ignition resistors, A/C connections, fuse blocks, etc. In any case, I will likely need at least some "mating connectors" from the identical year car in order to match my harnesses. If this rambling explanation makes any sense to you: Advance directly to GO - Collect $200! If you have any ideas to share, I'm still looking for quality solutions that are simple and reasonably inexpensive. Thanks, Paul

Thanks for the suggestions Dragonfly. Although not impossible, finding another '72 for a donor seems unlikely in the near future. No doubt, shortly after I give-up and do something foolish, that unlikely car will appear!!!!! I do have all the original replacement harnesses intact and unmolested for the car. What I'm lacking is the "pig-tails" off all the lights, motors and switches listed above to connect to these harnesses. Now you have me wondering how Painless suggests connecting to "factory pig-tails" on a rewired car??? No doubt there are aftermarket connectors I could use, but I'd have to cut and install them on my "virgin" replacement harnesses to make that work. In addition, anything else that requires replacing in the future would need to be modified to be compatible. Anyone out there care to share the method Painless uses (aftermarket "pin" connectors, crimp-on butt splices, solder/heat-shrink, etc) to connect thier harnesses to the "pig-tail" of a factory device? Thanks, Paul BTW: Where is the "Spell Checker" for those of us who's spelling is less than impressive!

I'm open to suggestions... I bought a '72 240 with an aborted rewire job. 98% of the wire is 16 gauge and it's ALL white! I bought complete harnesses from front to rear and thought I had everything covered. WRONG... The genius that did the rewire cut all the connectors off and crimped or soldered everything back together. So, things like side marker lites, clearance lites, headlights, taillights, license plate lights, blower motor, wiper motor, steering column switches are now direct wired!!! Anyone have a source of original connectors that's less expensive than a donor car??? Please don't flame me if you know of this being covered in another thread. A link or word/phrase to search for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Paul

I bought a cheap immitation of a Lokar cable that is too long. That was a mistake! It was so cheap that it had no instructions. I wasn't able to come up with a method to trim it that I was willing to try since I wanted to take the Z for a test drive! In your opinion, what is the best method of cutting both the cable and the outer sheath without fraying them? Thanks, Paul

Tom Maybe this will help. It's a reprint of a couple other people's information that I've saved over the years. Paul Ok, here's a list of what came in what...... 3.36 R-180: 240-260Z manual trans R-200: 280zx 6/78-7/79 280zx auto's and 280ZX Turbo's 3.54 R-180: 240-280ZX auto's Maxima sedan, manual trans R-200: 280Z manual, 280zx Turbo 3.700 R-180: 810 sedan R-200: 280ZX manual 6/78-6/79, 300zx non-turbo and Turbo 3.90 R-180: 720 4x4 1/83-6/83 R-200: 280ZX n/turbo 80-83 200SX Turbo 84, 200SX V-6 4.11 R-180: 720 4x4 6/83-12/85 R-200: 200SX Turbo 85-86, 200SX n/t 84-88 4.37 R-180: 720 4x4 6/79-12/82 R-200: n/a 4.62 R-180: 720 4x4 Long bed 6/79-6/80 R-200: n/a Now all ya got to do is find them in a junkyard..... ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ Datsun/Nissan Differential Ratios 240Z, 260Z, 280Z 240Z Manual 70-73 R180 3.364:1 240Z Auto 70-73 R180 3.545:1 260Z Manual 74 R180 3.364:1 280Z Manual 75-78 R200 3.545:1 280Z Auto 75-78 R180 3.364:1 280ZX 280ZX Manual 80-83 R200 3.90:1 280ZX Man. Turbo (B/W T-5) 83 R200 3.545:1 280ZX Auto (non turbo) All R180 3.545:1 280ZX Auto and Turbo All R200 3.364:1 280ZX Turbo W/Auto All R200 3.545:1 280ZX Man. W/4 Speed 79 Coupe R180 3.364:1 280ZX Man. W/5 Speed 79 Coupe R180 3.364:1 280ZX Auto 79 All R180 3.545:1 280ZX Man. W/4 Speed 79 2+2 R200 3.364:1 280ZX Man. W/5 Speed 79 2+2 R200 3.70:1 280ZX 79 R200 3.70:1 300ZX 300ZX Turbo and Non Turbo All R200 3.70:1 300ZX Turbo (Finned Cover) 87-89 R200 3.70:1 LSD 300ZX Turbo 88 (White) R200 3.70:1 LSD Viscus 720 4X4 Pickup 720 4X4 1/83-6/83 R180 3.90:1 720 4X4 6/83-12/85 R180 4:11.1 200SX 200SX Turbo 84 R200 3.90:1 200SX Turbo 85-86 R200 4.11:1 200SX Non Turbo 84-88 R180 4.11:1 200SX V6 All R180 3.90:1 Maxima Sedan Manual All R180 3.70:1 Sedan Auto All R180 3.364:1 Speedometer Cogs Yellow 16 Tooth 3.364.1 Black, 17 Tooth 3.545.1 Blue 18 Tooth 3.70:1 White 19 Tooth 3.90:1 Red 20 Tooth 4.11:1 Purple 21 Tooth 4.38:1